Best 440 Add Ons

[NorthWestCharger]

Hello all,

Recently pulled a 440 out of a good running early 70's motorhome for my Charger Project.

Looking to replace the Intake, Carb, Cam, possibly heads to get some decent street horsepower.
It was a 4 Barrel Factory engine not sure if those parts are any good and worth keeping?

What is suggested for part's, and what are some need to know questions? Not very familiar with 440's or dodges for that matter.

Also, is the factory oil pan from a Motorhome able to fit in a 1968 Charger or does that also require changing?

Thanks!

[Brass]

What is the exact year?  70-72 have forged cranks but the compression drops off a cliff after 70.  Compression is key and you will probably need pistons.  At which point, it might be worth considering a stroker kit.  Does the oil pan have a number stamped into it?

[sccachallenger]

Some early '70s 440s in motorhomes turn out to be 413s!
Not sure when the 413s went away, so double check before you buy any parts.
I'm sure you'll love either one.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Motorhomes are usually 7.5-8:1 compression with junk heads. Really only good for a core. If you decide to run it as is, or even do the cam and intake swap, dont be upset if it only runs 14s.

[69wannabe]

As said above alot of the early motorhomes had the 413 which is not desirable at all to me at least. To be sure you for sure have a 440 there is a flat pad on the front of the engine right where the valley pan bolts down. It should say 440 there with a few letters there too. I have a block that has F440 stamped on it and one had a 440T on it or something like that.  If it is a 440 you got something to work with but it would be best to get on here and get a good recipe for your engine depending on what you want to do with the car. There is nothing wrong with a cast crank 440 if you are just wanting to build a good street engine. The old speed pro 2355 pistons are good for some decent compression and then a good comp XE268 or XE274 would make a good street cam with some lope at idle and some decent power.

The money comes in with a good head selection but do your homework if you decide to purchase some aftermarket aluminum heads, so many different brands to choose from and then they will most likely need work before you bolt them on. I went with the 440 source stealth heads and had them prepped by a recommended member on here and he did a great job on them too!! The stealth heads have the straight spark plugs like the factory heads and that works best with my headers so that was one of the reasons for that choice.

So many different ways to go with an engine build these days, if you are after specific HP numbers or specific digits at the drag strip you need to get with some of the real engine guys on here and look at some of the proven engine builds and that should get you pointed in the right direction.

If you just want a good running 440 then that shouldn't be too hard to come up with. Stock heads work pretty good but the heads are a good place to upgrade if you want to wake up a good 440. Just depends on your budget of course.....

[Laowho]

Here's the proven build thread

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/board,30.0.html

Even w/ our mild cam, I'm always wanting the heads that would let even this breathe sufficiently, and to maybe bring our compression down a little.

[NorthWestCharger]

I looked over the numbers and this is what I found.


Block = 4006630-440-1

Above Valley = 9 T 440E 9 1 2

[NorthWestCharger]

What is the exact year?  70-72 have forged cranks but the compression drops off a cliff after 70.  Compression is key and you will probably need pistons.  At which point, it might be worth considering a stroker kit.  Does the oil pan have a number stamped into it?

Block = 4006630-440-1

Above Valley = 9 T 440E 9 1 2

[TommyGun]

Im not an expert but a believe 9 means 1979 and T means built in Trenton.

[NorthWestCharger]

Im not an expert but a believe 9 means 1979 and T means built in Trenton.

1979 wow! I couldn't read the VIN for the year on the Motorhome. I assumed because the Carb was adjustable and not sealed off it was early 70's and not late.

According to Google I wasn't blessed with a "Forged" Crankshaft or the desired "Rods".

[BLK 68 R/T]

Im not an expert but a believe 9 means 1979 and T means built in Trenton.

1979 wow! I couldn't read the VIN for the year on the Motorhome. I assumed because the Carb was adjustable and not sealed off it was early 70's and not late.

According to Google I wasn't blessed with a "Forged" Crankshaft or the desired "Rods".

Its a 78 motor, they quit making 440's in 78.

4006630=1978 casting block

Edit: I retract my statement above. 78 was the last year for cars. They continued in motorhomes and trucks through 79. Carry on

[NorthWestCharger]

Well tore it down further and everything looks dam near new.

It has 452 heads, I am waiting on a quote for porting these and will compare to the 440 Stealth, & Edebrock options.

Will likely go with the below for my build..

Speed Pro Pistons 2355
Holley Demon 850
Holley Street Dominator Single Plane Intake
Comp Cams Xtreme Energy Camshaft XE268
Headers (Not sure any suggestions are appreciated, 1968 Charger)
Engine Fan (Not sure any suggestions are appreciated, 1968 Charger)
New Coil (Stock)

Does anyone have any input on the stock distributor, & if the Motorhome oil pan will fit in a car?

[69wannabe]

You will need an oil pan for a car. Mancini has a hemi oil pan and pick up screen package that is an upgrade from the regular 4 quart pan. The cast crank isn't a big let down unless you are going to be over the 550 hp mark. I'm not sure what the limit is on a cast crank but I think the rods are all pretty much the same. You will need a certain flexplate to run the cast crank since that 440 is externally balanced. An 850 cfm may be a little big on that 440, a 750 cfm would be a better choice I think but I may be wrong. I ran a 750 on my 440 and was very happy with the performance I had with it. The 452 heads are good iron heads to work with, if you decide to go with bigger valves and custom port work you will be better off on the long run with a set of stealth heads and having them worked by Jim LaRoy or Dewayne Porter. The iron heads will still do fine on a stock stroked 440 and should flow really good but if you ever decide to go bigger like a stroker kit the iron heads will leave you wanting more.

My buddy's charger is a great running car with plenty of playing power but still a great car to drive and enjoy. It is also an RV engine and it is put together with this recipie,

74 440 block with cast crank and factory rods, 2355 pistons 30 over,
stock 346 casting heads,
Comp XE268 cam and lifters, comp 911-16 springs,
stock valve train,
eddy performer intake and 750 vacuum secondary holley carb,
and headman long tube headers.

The firecore distributor's are popular on here and they work great, I am currently running the plug and play distributor and firecore wire set. Ron (firefighter on here)
is a direct dealer and great when it comes to technical question's and answer's.

If you want a little more get up and go you can go with the XE274 cam and do the oversize valves in the cast iron heads (214/181's) and some minor port work and go with an eddy RPM intake and you may want to go with a good 2500 stall converter if you are going with a 727 transmission.

My 440 had the XE274 and some decent worked 346 cast iron heads with the bigger valves in them. I had them re-done back in 2007 for $650 bucks and they worked fine for that engine. I know that was 10 years back but still wasn't bad for what I was doing with them. I had a steel crank with factory rods and the 2355 pistons. RPM intake and 750 holley double pumper carb. The engine ran great and I should have left it alone but I got the fever for a stroker kit and the rest is history.....

[Laowho]

I'd use for our next build work the Lunati 60303 Voodoo cam and Trick Flow heads. The Eddy RPMs are supposed to require the least port work outa the box, and the Trick Flows a near second for less. We only have 780cfm Quick Flow Vacuum Secondary, but probly b/c of our 906 heads. Tops out at 4900rpm but the cam now peaks at 5500, so I'd really recommend aluminum heads, and pick your compression.

[pipeliner]

Why do you want to run those heavy speed pro pistons? I'd look for something lighter IMO