Horn help, specifically the switch, and column grounding issues

[UH60L]

So, background, I've got a '69 charger that I'm restoring, sort of (it's not original its a really nice mutt, that is now a General Lee...).  I've installed a painless wiring kit into it. The last two things I haven't hooked up yet are the horn, because I didn't have it yet, and the wiper tank, (missing a clip).  Been driving the car again, finally, for about the last year.

Finally got a new Dixie horn and got it all installed.  Connected the horn wire to the air pump, and a ground wire between it and the radiator support.  While testing it, the horn button was intermittent, then started working properly.  I figured it must just be dirty (car sat for 8 years).  So we finish up installation of the horns and tubes, horn works great, no issues.  

Then we take the car for a drive to test the horn on the road.  I press the horn pad and nothing.  I wiggle it around and finally it goes until just before the last note and stops.  Then nothing, I can't get it to work again.  So we go back, I check the fuse, it's blown.  Put in a new fuse.  Couldn't get it to work.  Took off the pad, pulled off the horn wire and touched it to the shaft, nothing.  Touch it to the column housing, horn goes off.  I checked the wiring to the column, took off the wheel and checked the contact wheel, and made sure the wire wasn't shorting in the column.  Everything is good up to the wire for the switch.

Then, as I was leaving my friend's house, I wiggled the horn pad, and it plays half of Dixie and dies again.  (lucky I got home, as the horn fuse is also the brake light fuse...)

So, if the switch is suppose to ground the horn wire through the shaft, am I missing a ground strap somewhere to ground the shaft?  The column housing is grounded but the shaft isn't.  (tested both with a multimeter)

Is this, per chance, a painless wiring thing, like the horn wire is wire backwards compared to original or something?


Also, my switch has some of the black plastic parts broken and is, well, not as functional as it could be.  figured it wouldn't hurt to get  anew one.  So I went online to look for a new switch, but can't seem to find the correct one.  There is one listed on Classic Industries that says it's for a '70 to '74 but that it can be used on a '69 if you change the pad support, but it looks thicker that mine.  

Similarly when looking at the pad support on Classic Industries, looks just like mine, but it says "woodgrain".  My car doesn't have a woodgrain steering wheel. It has a metal 3 spoke with plastic wheel.  

Same with the horn pad, the one that looks like mine says "woodgrain".

My car WAS a mutt made drivable with parts from 9 other Chargers when I got it, so there is a chance I don't have the correct switch, support. or pad.

Anyone have the correct part numbers for the switch, support, and pad for a non-woodgrain steering wheel?

Any help would be appreciated.

Clint

[UH60L]

Ok, after sleeping on it I went out and took a closer look at my steering wheel.  It's old and cracked in a few places.  I put a light on one of the cracks, and lo and behold, inside there, I could see wood.  So, what looked like old wore out plastic is indeed a "woodgrain" steering wheel.  This makes total sense considering the car was thrown together by the guy I bought it from and has no other woodgrain anywhere in it.  It has a black rally dash.  (darn car had Hyundai front seats when I got it...)

So, that takes care of that.

But, I'm still unsure as to why my steering shaft is not grounded, and my horn isn't working correctly.  It would seem that when the car is running/moving it gets intermittently grounded because suddenly it will work, but then blows the fuse (it's a micro yellow 20 in the new painless fuse box).

Doing a bit of searching online, someone said the horn wire at the column was supposed to have power and when grounded caused the relay to work.  Is this true? 

What little I know about wiring is what I've learned on here and from installing the painless kit...

[BLK 68 R/T]

The upper bearing in your steering column - how is the rubber insulator on the bearing?

[UH60L]

Looks ok, but I didn't remove it...

[UH60L]

More food for thought.  I put the black lead of my mulitmeter on a ground on the door and touch the red lead to the horn contact on the turn signal switch, and I show 12.1 volts.

I have been told that wire isn't suppose to have power.  The horn relay is wired into the fuse box, and the horn shares a fuse with the brake lights.  Perhaps there is something hokey with the way painless wired the horn...

[BLK 68 R/T]

So I was able to briefly look at the fsm today. The main power to the horn relay comes from the alternator stud, the steering column horn contact looks like it just provides ground for the system, which activates the relay and sends power to the horns.

[Bronzedodge]

I think it might be two problems - 1 the switch issue, and 2 the fuse issue.  You might have to see how much current the new horn setup draws.