Control arms and steering options

[BlueSS454]

So I've been reading some and weighing options. I have to replace all the steering linkage on my 68 sincenit was I a wreck last year. Since I need to tear it apart, one thing I need to do is make handle and steer better. It has always steered horrible since I first put it together. What are my options for upper control arms to get some more caster out of it?  I was looking at QA1 but the rep I talked to at their booth in Ocean City last week couldn't really tell me much.
I also want to put a better steering box in it. I'm not auto crossing it or anything, I just want it to handle and steer better.  Last thing, the center link on mine looks like it's bent. I haven't been able to find a new one. Is this something that is only to be had used?
Thanks for any insight

[JR]

I just put in some SPC adjustable upper control arms last weekend.





They allow up to six degrees of positive caster, and as much negative camber as you want. Very easy to adjust too. Good price point as well. Much more affordable than the 700 dollar plus Hotchkis arms.

The caster alone makes a HUGE difference in how the car drives.

[68CoronetRT]

I'm doing the full blown QA1 setup this weekend actually. I already have the PST large tie rod ends, and while I'm in there I'm going to replace my idler arm.

I've been running the QA1 uppers for about 3 months now and was able to pull +5 caster and -.05 on camber.

For the steering box, call up Firm Feel and talk with the owner. He will point you in the right direction with a box.

[BlueSS454]

I'm doing the full blown QA1 setup this weekend actually. I already have the PST large tie rod ends, and while I'm in there I'm going to replace my idler arm.

I've been running the QA1 uppers for about 3 months now and was able to pull +5 caster and -.05 on camber.

For the steering box, call up Firm Feel and talk with the owner. He will point you in the right direction with a box.

That's exactly what I wanted to know.  I talked to a QA1 rep down in Ocean City, MD 2 weeks ago.  I was a little surprised what little he could tell me considering he owned a 69 Charger as well.  If you can, please let me know how it all works out.  I was leaning towards going with them if I could get the info I needed.  I have a feeling the upper and lower on the right side of mine are bent from the accident since that took the brunt of the force even though they don't look bent.  I don't want to take any chances.  I already did a disc conversion when I built the car 10 years ago using the spindles and caliper brackets from a Magnum so I could have the 11.75" rotors.

[68CoronetRT]

I'll report back with pics after this weekend!

I'll probably start a mini build thread too since there is not alot of info on the QA1 stuff on the boards.

[Lennard]

I'll report back with pics after this weekend!

I'll probably start a mini build thread too since there is not alot of info on the QA1 stuff on the boards.

[BlueSS454]

I'll report back with pics after this weekend!

I'll probably start a mini build thread too since there is not alot of info on the QA1 stuff on the boards.

[WHITE AND RED 69]

I'll report back with pics after this weekend!

I'll probably start a mini build thread too since there is not alot of info on the QA1 stuff on the boards.

Here's a good read on the QA1 setup.  

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,103242.0.html

[BlueSS454]

I'll report back with pics after this weekend!

I'll probably start a mini build thread too since there is not alot of info on the QA1 stuff on the boards.

Here's a good read on the QA1 setup.  

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,103242.0.html

That was a great read!  That pretty much convinced me what I'm going to do.  Think my plan of attack on it is to work on that over the winter when I pull the engine/trans out to get rebuilt.  Perfect time to redo the front end 

[68CoronetRT]

Ok. Got her done! Here are some quick pics. They came out kinda dark . Took 7 hours with a friend helping me and a rack. We stopped and still had to adjust ride height and tighten everything down today. Drove the car after setting the toe and it drives SO MUCH BETTER . The lower control arms pivot bushing were pretty much gone.





















Took the front end down 2". Sits just about right now. Love the new Poly Loc engine mounts. Makes the car vibrate alot more, but feels real tight.

[Lennard]

Looks good,  thanks for the info and pictures. 

[JR]

Nice, those are some quality parts.

I'll say it again, the caster alone makes a huge improvement to how well the car drives. Not to mention the other improvements.

I can't see why anyone would keep the stock parts after experiencing the improved geometry of modern replacements. (Aside from stock restorations, of course.)

[68CoronetRT]

So all we could get out of the alignment was +3 Caster both sides and 0 camber drivers side and -1/4 degree pass side. They said once the springs settle a little it should gain some more negative camber. Car drives great!

As far as the stock parts go. Both lower control arms pivot bushings were pretty much gone to the point where I could not zip off the nut holding them in place. I eventually got them off, but they are shot. I wanted to keep the lower control arms. I trashed the K member/strut rods. K member was cracked.

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Looks nice and clean! 

[BlueSS454]

Nice 

[HPP]

So all we could get out of the alignment was +3 Caster both sides and 0 camber drivers side and -1/4 degree pass side. They said once the springs settle a little it should gain some more negative camber. Car drives great!

As far as the stock parts go. Both lower control arms pivot bushings were pretty much gone to the point where I could not zip off the nut holding them in place. I eventually got them off, but they are shot. I wanted to keep the lower control arms. I trashed the K member/strut rods. K member was cracked.

The QA1 stuff is definitely nice and you probably lost some weight in the process, but you also lost 2* of caster and some negative camber from your starting point and spent a couple grand getting there.  Given the used/damaged condition of the original stuff, some repair and replace could have given similar improvements for for less than $100.

Sure looks good though.

[Kern Dog]

I just put in some SPC adjustable upper control arms last weekend.



They allow up to six degrees of negative caster, and as much negative camber as you want. Very easy to adjust too. Good price point as well. Much more affordable than the 700 dollar plus Hotchkis arms.

The caster alone makes a HUGE difference in how the car drives.

I believe you meant POSITIVE caster! When the upper ball joint moves to the rear, that results in POSitive caster.
A bent center link can be pressed back to the original form in a press at a spring shop.

[JR]

I just put in some SPC adjustable upper control arms last weekend.



They allow up to six degrees of negative caster, and as much negative camber as you want. Very easy to adjust too. Good price point as well. Much more affordable than the 700 dollar plus Hotchkis arms.

The caster alone makes a HUGE difference in how the car drives.

I believe you meant POSITIVE caster! When the upper ball joint moves to the rear, that results in POSitive caster.
A bent center link can be pressed back to the original form in a press at a spring shop.

Whoops, your right Kern Dog, that was a typo.

It's fixed now.

[funknut]

I have QA1 k-frame, adjustable strut rods and LCAs, with RMS upper control arms.  The RMS ones provide more adjustability than the QA1 uppers without the crazy hotchkis price tag.

I haven't had it to the shop for a full front end alignment, but I have no doubts I'll get +5 caster and -0.5 camber when all is said and done.  Great parts.  RMS is super great to work with.