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1969 383 "H" code resto questions

Started by Bad B-rad, May 31, 2017, 10:00:55 AM

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Bad B-rad

I have a few questions about painting my 1969 383 H code 330hp engine.
I took tons of photos upon the break down of the engine, but a few of the valve cover bolts were already removed and in a cup inside the car, not on the motor, when I bought the car.
So originally the valve covers have six bolts each. On the passenger side it looks, from my photos, that the lower outer two and the two lower center bolts, are just bolts with a washer, the top center two were studs with a nut and washer.
Is that correct?
And is the driver side valve cover set up the same way?

Second question is the valley tin/pan.
On most org engines I have come across this part has engine paint on it, but looks as if it was from painting the intake and heads and what not, and that was good enough.
What I am getting at is should I be painting my valley pan, or just kinda hit it(1/2 ass job) when the surrounding parts are painted, and call that good?
Now maybe the paint has flaked off over years and that is why the ones I have seen do not look like they were painted all that well.
On line I can see tons of engines were the valley pan is painted, but I can also see many other things that are done in a different way then the factory (wrong style hose clamps, the way the negative bat cable is painted/not painted and so on)so I can't go by that.

So those are my questions at the moment,
1) location of studs and bolts on valve covers, driver and pass side.
2) was the valley pan painted, or it just kinda got covered by overspray by painting the surrounding parts?

Thanks.

BLK 68 R/T

Quote from: Bad B-rad on May 31, 2017, 10:00:55 AM
I have a few questions about painting my 1969 383 H code 330hp engine.
I took tons of photos upon the break down of the engine, but a few of the valve cover bolts were already removed and in a cup inside the car, not on the motor, when I bought the car.
So originally the valve covers have six bolts each. On the passenger side it looks, from my photos, that the lower outer two and the two lower center bolts, are just bolts with a washer, the top center two were studs with a nut and washer.
Is that correct?
And is the driver side valve cover set up the same way?

Second question is the valley tin/pan.
On most org engines I have come across this part has engine paint on it, but looks as if it was from painting the intake and heads and what not, and that was good enough.
What I am getting at is should I be painting my valley pan, or just kinda hit it(1/2 ass job) when the surrounding parts are painted, and call that good?
Now maybe the paint has flaked off over years and that is why the ones I have seen do not look like they were painted all that well.
On line I can see tons of engines were the valley pan is painted, but I can also see many other things that are done in a different way then the factory (wrong style hose clamps, the way the negative bat cable is painted/not painted and so on)so I can't go by that.

So those are my questions at the moment,
1) location of studs and bolts on valve covers, driver and pass side.
2) was the valley pan painted, or it just kinda got covered by overspray by painting the surrounding parts?

Thanks.

1) location of studs and bolts on valve covers, driver and pass side. Lower 2 corners on each head are a stud and nut. All others are bolts
2) was the valley pan painted, or it just kinda got covered by overspray by painting the surrounding parts? Think speed - the motors were assembled with almost everything on them. Even the exhaust manifolds got painted. So the motor was painted with the intake manifold installed, valley pan was not painted prior to install.

Bad B-rad

Ok cool so lower outer most holes get the studs I have, the rest the bolts.
And the valley pan was painted, completely (on assembled engine).
Thanks.

It also looks as if engine was painted, and THEN the vacuum tree was installed, into the intake manifold.
So the vacuum tree is not painted.(That's how mine looks)


I have been using the Mopar restoration turquoise engine paint, what should I use for the PCV valve and breather/oil fill cap?( both black)
I have regular black paint, semi gloss, full gloss, flat all on hand, but didn't know if anyone can recommend a paint that hold up to engine heat, and oil/grease, and looks spot on factory correct?




For years I used the Dupli-color high heat Chrysler turquoise engine paint.
I put a coat on my intake manifold, then I ran out. So I ordered up two cans of the Mopar paint, and painted my valve covers and waterpump housing and what not. When side by side with the Dupli-Color, HOLY COW, what a difference!!!!
I had to re shoot the intake, the Mopar paint is spot on!!!!!
I didn't know how off the dupli-color was until I had the Mopar paint.
I noticed that the dupli-color was a tiny bit off from OE, years ago, but in the past I thought that was due to age, and heat cycles and oil/grease causing the paint to fade.




BLK 68 R/T

The breather housing that goes on the left valve cover I have seen in black (in between a flat and semi gloss black) and chrome, might be different between hp and non hp motors  :shruggy:, most common finish is chrome that I have seen. The PCV valve, grommet and oil fill cap were all painted engine color on my '70 bee that I had, engine was all original in it.

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: BLK 68 R/T on May 31, 2017, 10:41:07 AM

1) location of studs and bolts on valve covers, driver and pass side. Lower 2 corners on each head are a stud and nut. All others are bolts

Not for highkack, but begin a new thread just for this question is like too much LOL. Is this the same for all years?
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

gtx6970

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on June 01, 2017, 07:35:53 PM
Quote from: BLK 68 R/T on May 31, 2017, 10:41:07 AM

1) location of studs and bolts on valve covers, driver and pass side. Lower 2 corners on each head are a stud and nut. All others are bolts

Not for highkack, but begin a new thread just for this question is like too much LOL. Is this the same for all years?

yes

Bad B-rad

I am just going to take a guess that the two studs are located at the lower outer most holes, to make installing the valve cover and gasket quicker/EZ r.(when you do 800 engines a day LOL!!!)

That would be my guess as to why they are in that spot, and why two different style fasteners are used.