How to raise motor, motor stuck in car

[miller]

Hello,

Our goal is to raise the motor a few inches on the left side to make clearance for steering box removal (removing lh motor mount bolt, keep rh motor mount bolt in and use floor jack on the oil pan to raise. However when we attempted it, we only raise the entire car, the motor did not rotate. So we unbolted the right and engine mount and tried again, but still the car raised and not just the engine. Can anyone help give idea how to raise engine? The car is on a 4 post lift so we can't get an engine hoist in front of it to lift, so floor jack was our only option in our minds.

If at all possible can knowledgeable people reply back quickly as I only have today to work on car (took job downstate and car is still up state). Thanks so much in advance!
Miller

[XH29N0G]

I have been able to raise (twist) a little in the past using this approach. I also ruined the original oil pan doing this.

It could be that the exhaust, or something else, is holding the side of the motor down.   

[miller]

The lh header is disconnected at the collector from the main exhaust, the Rh side is still attached and the trans mount is attached, I thought those two wouldn't matter so much. One quick thing, we removed the long horizontal bolts from the mount. Is there a different bolt to remove to free motor?

[c00nhunterjoe]

It is probably stuck because the car is on a 4 post lift with the wheels hanging. When you do this, the entire chassis sags unless it has frame connectors added at minimum. Even if you pry the motor free from the kframe, you will never get it back into place in the air.
   If i misunderstood and you are on a driveon lift, then use a long pry bar between the motor mount and kframe from underneath and see if it will move.

[miller]

Drive on lift, however currently the front of car is supported on front subfrage right at the firwall by a sliding jack. Is this causing too much flex?

[HPP]

IMO, they don't flex so much  to prevent the motor from being lifted up a couple of inches. However, if you still have exhaust, engine mounts, trans mounts, linkage, driveshaft,or anything else still attached to the engine or trans, they can all limit the movement up.

There also is a pinch weld in the trans tunnel where the firewall meets the floor. This will also limit upward motion after just a few inches.

[BIGBLCK11]

Just swapped mine on my 70 last fall.  Didn't touch the motor mounts.  I had the header and starter off for a repair, had plenty of room to access steering box from bottom on a 4 post lift.  383 with Dougs header have to come off together, also a pita.

Edit:  I did have the column loose to free it from the steering box.  

[miller]

Just swapped mine on my 70 last fall.  Didn't touch the motor mounts.  I had the header and starter off for a repair, had plenty of room to access steering box from bottom on a 4 post lift.  383 with Dougs header have to come off together, also a pita.

Edit:  I did have the column loose to free it from the steering box.  

But how do you get the header free? It won't come off the motor, I agree with those out of the way there is much room. But I can't get it to come off the motor.

[BIGBLCK11]

Just swapped mine on my 70 last fall.  Didn't touch the motor mounts.  I had the header and starter off for a repair, had plenty of room to access steering box from bottom on a 4 post lift.  383 with Dougs header have to come off together, also a pita.

Edit:  I did have the column loose to free it from the steering box.  

But how do you get the header free? It won't come off the motor, I agree with those out of the way there is much room. But I can't get it to come off the motor.

It is not fun at all.  But, remove spark plugs, dipstick tube, remove header bolts and starter bolts. Then, I have to jockey the header around by lifting it upward some and tilting the rear to floor 45 - 60 degrees, wherever I could get it to clear.  Once it's on a angle, I lower the starter out(while holding starter up for support the whole time).  Then pull the header down.  I recommend a shop towel or something to 'help' not scratch the headers, but mine still did some.

Edit:  I should mention I have aluminum heads using bolts, not the original studs in the head for the exhaust to mount,  which would make it more difficult.  That may be what you are running into.

[Kern Dog]

It is probably stuck because the car is on a 4 post lift with the wheels hanging. When you do this, the entire chassis sags unless it has frame connectors added at minimum. Even if you pry the motor free from the kframe, you will never get it back into place in the air.
   

What 4 post lift works like that?

The engine may have just settled into place and is a bit stubborn to leave. Try tapping the mounts with a hammer while keeping some tension on the jack. To avoid denting the oil pan, be sure to use a block of wood across the width of the pan.

[c00nhunterjoe]

It is probably stuck because the car is on a 4 post lift with the wheels hanging. When you do this, the entire chassis sags unless it has frame connectors added at minimum. Even if you pry the motor free from the kframe, you will never get it back into place in the air.
   

What 4 post lift works like that?

The engine may have just settled into place and is a bit stubborn to leave. Try tapping the mounts with a hammer while keeping some tension on the jack. To avoid denting the oil pan, be sure to use a block of wood across the width of the pan.

My following sentence addressed if it was a driveon lift.

[will]

A little smear of neversieze goes a long way. Pry bar and gentle persuasion with a hammer may dislodge the header. You baked the gasket on both sides, so it doesn't want to let go. Try tapping a screwdriver or chisel between the head and header flange, in three or four spots along the length of the flange, and tap like your Michelangelo. eventually the header will peel the gasket, or it will split the gasket. Tap gingerly, following a pattern so you don't damage or tweak the flange.

[c00nhunterjoe]

The header is not stuck to the head. He still has studs in the heads instead of bolts and he cant clear the studs

[HPP]

In that case, he may need to unbolt the starter, pull it out of the bell housing, shove it up against the block and wiggle the whole starter/header combination around to get enough angle to clear the studs.  This may require setting the block back down on the  engine mount.  They went in, so they can come out, its just finding the magic angle where it all comes apart.

[sccachallenger]

I've also used a block of wood against the drivers side pan rail, helped lift engine didn't damage pan.
And removing the torsion bar on that side will give you a lot more wiggle room, and may eliminate need to lift engine.

[Finn]

Would it be easier to unbolt the K-frame (and possibly transmission crossmember) and lift the car away from the motor?