Roof Skin Replacement

[rikubot]

About the question about the picture: the flange is not as dramatic as the picture makes it look. If I remember correctly, the skin sits just about even with the quarter when it's sitting on top of it. I will get a pic of it with a straight edge on it next time. But in the picture it definitely looks pretty pronounced.

[Dreamcar]

About the question about the picture: the flange is not as dramatic as the picture makes it look. If I remember correctly, the skin sits just about even with the quarter when it's sitting on top of it. I will get a pic of it with a straight edge on it next time. But in the picture it definitely looks pretty pronounced.

THIS! yes, use a straight edge, and if its just about right, then leave the roof on top of the quarter, plug weld it first, then fill it. If you have to take the roof off 20 times, if does matter as long as you get the last test fit right before welding.

[Dreamcar]

"because it seems the stamping didn't crease the lip enough".

We would need to see this, or at least I do. I don't get it.

[rikubot]

"because it seems the stamping didn't crease the lip enough".

We would need to see this, or at least I do. I don't get it.

Okay, I will try my best to get a picture illustrating what I mean. I'm trying to think of a way to draw it that might explain what I mean.

Update: there is no way in hell I could draw what I'm trying to describe. It would be even more confusing to the situation. Failed miserably lol

[rikubot]

Sorry in advance. Hopefully this will make sense.

[Dreamcar]

Sorry in advance. Hopefully this will make sense.

You just need to bend and clamp it for welding.

[rikubot]

Some more pics:



o



You can see a little better how the flange is a bit more subtle than the other pics made it look.

[rikubot]

Heres where I meant the skin comes up short from the drip rail for about 3-4 inches.

[Dreamcar]

the seam looks fine now with the level sitting on it. How is it fitting everywhere else around the car? Is it hanging up anywhere that could affect how it fits in that corner? What about around the windows?  

You could maybe make a relief cut and pull in down towards the drip rail and weld it back up after (see green line representing the cut and arrow)?  Making small relief cuts like this is not uncommon with new panels.  

[rikubot]

Everything else looks pretty good. I measured the two c-pillars along the seam and the driver's side came up about a quarter inch shorter than the other. Kind of a strange mistake for AMD to make but it seems like that's the only possible explanation for that seam coming up short. I think that relief cut is the only way around that issue. The drip rail seams I think will fit better in the drip channel once I bend them a little more. It's definitely not hanging up anywhere. The top of the c-pillar looks pretty flush after the trimming. The trimming helped quite a bit but I am going to measure that distance on each side again to make sure it's the skin that's uneven, then probably put that cut in it right where you have it drawn.

[mopar4don]

Just a suggestion:
If you do a relief cut, slice it as close as you can to the bend.
The farther out you in a flat panel the better the chance you will get oil canning or distortion.

[rikubot]

Just a suggestion:
If you do a relief cut, slice it as close as you can to the bend.
The farther out you in a flat panel the better the chance you will get oil canning or distortion.

Thanks for the advice. The longer the cut, the less the bend, right? I am a little afraid the warp the metal welding in a little piece there...pretty much just a sliver.

[rikubot]

What do you all think of using panel bond to attach the roof skin?

[charger_fan_4ever]

What do you all think of using panel bond to attach the roof skin?

we only welded mine at the front and rear window channels,a pillars,at the 1/4 seam.

Used the bond all along the drip rails and cross pieces.