1968 Charger- no start- no 12v power

[whitehatspecial]

Hello

I have a problem with my '68 Charger, 318 automatic. The car has been trouble-free and is a driver, although it is very original 50,000 mile 1 family car. This past weekend I started the car and was in the process of warming it up when it stalled. The attempted to restart the car when I heard a small electrical pop (similar to a fuse blowing), everything went dead after that. No starter, no lights, no horn, etc. The battery measures 12.5v from positive to ground as does the smaller red cable going to the starter relay terminal.

I don't see any fusible link, and I'm wondering if it may be the amp gauge. Any ideas or similar experiences such as this.

I will add that there have been no alterations to any of the wiring or gauges, and that the car has always been garaged.

Thank you.

[birdsandbees]

Check this "Purple" wire first.. you have power to the starter relay lug, do you have power at the bulkhead connector. This is the fusable link and it may have blown. If you do have power at the bulkhead connector check the same location inside the car. Could be a bad male to female connection and proceed from there..

[comet_666]

Also, did you check the fuse block?

[whitehatspecial]

OK. Thanks. I do have 12v to the large terminal on the starter relay, but whn I checked several open female connectors on the bulkhead connectors, there is no voltage. How do I remove the fusible connector from the bulkhead connector (without breaking anything) so I can do an ohm test? I tried pulling a bit with a small needle nose but it didn't budge.

Thanks.

[M5Ivan]

You need to remove the engine harness connector at the bulkhead first to get to the other side. The fusible link can be removed by squeezing the end that's in the connector together.

[whitehatspecial]

You need to remove the engine harness connector at the bulkhead first to get to the other side. The fusible link can be removed by squeezing the end that's in the connector together.

So there's no way to unplug the fusible link from the engine bay side without unplugging the main harness (and releasing the clip) from under the dash? 

[M5Ivan]

You do remove it from the engine side. Remove the middle connector from the bulkhead and you'll see the other side of the fusible link. Easy.

[Gold Rush]

And when you remove that middle bulkhead connector you will not actually have to remove the fusable link to check it.  If you have 12 volts on both sides the link is good.

[birdsandbees]

Should have been no need to remove anything.. jam the volt meter test tip into the purple wires position on the connector. No voltage,  your fusable link blew.

No voltage, follow what the others stated...

[whitehatspecial]

Update. I do have continuity from the fusible link to the bulkhead connector. I'm looking at 2 possibilities from here. My battery ground cable isn't in good shape and I've ordered a new one. When I'm up to it ( I had a hip replacement 3 weeks ago) I'll get under the dash to check the voltage gauge and maybe bypass it. Thanks for the help and suggestions so far.

[nvrbdn]

This is exactly what was wrong with my car. It would run one day, and not the next. The male tab going into the bulkhead was arcing and melted. Very lucky I didn't have a fire. Check that connection.

[birdsandbees]

Yep.. why I replaced mine to be on the safe side..

[nvrbdn]

That is exactly what mine looked like.

[70 sublime]

Yep.. why I replaced mine to be on the safe side..

Could not figure what was wrong when you posted the first time but it seems you swapped pictures and now it makes more sense 

[whitehatspecial]

My connectors look good, no burn marks or melting. There is a little white corrosion which i'm going to clean up brfore I plug things back together. I haven't found any obvious arching faults yet.

[birdsandbees]

Yep.. why I replaced mine to be on the safe side..

Could not figure what was wrong when you posted the first time but it seems you swapped pictures and now it makes more sense 

it's like when you go to the optometrist... which is better 1 ooorrr 2?? 

[70 sublime]

 

[Nacho-RT74]

If the fuse link blown makes me wonder WHY it blow? It must be something into the main circuits system, not protected by the fuses at box.

I can make a testament about what to check. Alt-amm wires, headlight wires... ign switch wires.

Or maybe just the fuse link got grounded accidentally ( peeled cover somehow and chassis contact )

[Nacho-RT74]

Need to note the melting process is not ALLWAYS an arching failure. It is usually an overload in teminal due low capacity of the terminal to handle the load OR loosen/dirty terminals.

Believe or not, getting bigger capacity alts will save HALF of the overheating due the overloads on bulkhead... yes it seems to be contradictory, but it is for real

[whitehatspecial]

Need to note the melting process is not ALLWAYS an arching failure. It is usually an overload in teminal due low capacity of the terminal to handle the load OR loosen/dirty terminals.

Believe or not, getting bigger capacity alts will save HALF of the overheating due the overloads on bulkhead... yes it seems to be contradictory, but it is for real

Are you responding the OP? My fusible link did not blow nor did the bulkhead show any signs of deformation by heat.

[whitehatspecial]

I ended up replacing both battery cables. They were originals and the ground was really deteriorated.

[nvrbdn]

do we have power now and engine cranking?

[whitehatspecial]

do we have power now and engine cranking?

Yes. It fired right up. I replaced both cables with ones from eBay. I was really impressed with the ground cable I purchased from acdcwireandsupply.  They'll make any length you need (1/0 gauge wire) very reasonably Made in USA. I bought the positive from Olsmokey46. Both cables less than 50.00. Of course they're not concourse reproductions, but I've been done with that crap for some time now.

[nvrbdn]

Great to hear.

[PocketThunder]

I ended up replacing both battery cables. They were originals and the ground was really deteriorated.

How does a battery cable go bad though?  The connection between the clamp and the wires?

Paul

[Troy]

I ended up replacing both battery cables. They were originals and the ground was really deteriorated.

How does a battery cable go bad though?  The connection between the clamp and the wires?

Paul

They can corrode from the inside out. I was just helping my step dad the other day with his truck. The wires were hard as a rock! Split the covering and they were green almost all the way through.

Troy