Opinion - Change stock 2 barrel to 4 barrel on 1968 383 - affect value?

[rodneyramjet]

My 1968 Charger is pretty close to stock...my step dad did go from single to dual exhaust in the early 70's but otherwise pretty much unmolested.

So, here is the question - Do you think it will negatively affect the value of the car to go to a 4 barrel?

If I were to go this route, how much dough should I plan on saving up to do the job?

Lovin driving the car now that it is roadworthy...jut trying to plan my next move.

Thanks all...

[Kern Dog]

"So, here is the question - Do you think it will negatively affect the value of the car to go to a 4 barrel?"






No.

[ht4spd307]

if it makes it go faster maybe

[Y1CHARGER]

I've Done it, I don't think you are going to affect the value of the car but I would save all the original parts so it can go back to original if desired.  Also,  just adding a four barrel carb won't make a big difference, I would do a cam change along with the carb swap.  As for as cost, if you are not doing the work yourself, ask your mechanic for a price. 

[Challenger340]

I've Done it, I don't think you are going to affect the value of the car but I would save all the original parts so it can go back to original if desired.  Also,  just adding a four barrel carb won't make a big difference, I would do a cam change along with the carb swap.  As for as cost, if you are not doing the work yourself, ask your mechanic for a price. 

Shouldn't affect value at all.
But as already stated, changing to a 4 BBL Intake & Carb won't make much difference to power either(if at all), if you don't change out the 2 BBL Camshaft at the same time ?

The 4 BBL Engines had a 4 BBL Camshaft(more lift & duration)
and
the 2 BBL Engines had a 2 BBL Camshaft

[70 sublime]

I've Done it, I don't think you are going to affect the value of the car but I would save all the original parts so it can go back to original if desired.  Also,  just adding a four barrel carb won't make a big difference, I would do a cam change along with the carb swap.  As for as cost, if you are not doing the work yourself, ask your mechanic for a price. 

Shouldn't affect value at all.
But as already stated, changing to a 4 BBL Intake & Carb won't make much difference to power either(if at all), if you don't change out the 2 BBL Camshaft at the same time ?

The 4 BBL Engines had a 4 BBL Camshaft(more lift & duration)
and
the 2 BBL Engines had a 2 BBL Camshaft

Can you list the specs of a 2 BBL cam vs a 4 BBL cam factory type ?

[Troy]

Considering the 383 2bbl was about as "base model" as you could get... no, you're not going to lose value. But you aren't going to gain what it costs you to do the swap so, technically, yes, you'll lose money in the end. And, as mentioned, you probably won't get any performance out of the deal.

Figure the factory changed the cam, intake, carb, and exhaust to get the extra HP out of the "performance" 383.

Troy

[Challenger340]

I've Done it, I don't think you are going to affect the value of the car but I would save all the original parts so it can go back to original if desired.  Also,  just adding a four barrel carb won't make a big difference, I would do a cam change along with the carb swap.  As for as cost, if you are not doing the work yourself, ask your mechanic for a price.  

Shouldn't affect value at all.
But as already stated, changing to a 4 BBL Intake & Carb won't make much difference to power either(if at all), if you don't change out the 2 BBL Camshaft at the same time ?

The 4 BBL Engines had a 4 BBL Camshaft(more lift & duration)
and
the 2 BBL Engines had a 2 BBL Camshaft

Can you list the specs of a 2 BBL cam vs a 4 BBL cam factory type ?

From memory (no time to go looking up actual numbers), but you can google and research for yourself.....

The factory "335 HP" 4 BBL 383 Engine used the same Cam as all 375 HP 440 Magnum Engines, the 268/284 with 48* overlap, and I think right around .450" Lift or thereabouts ?
Interesting to note is the events were such that it extended the Performance Engine's range to right up around 5,000 to 5,200 rpm or slightly better, with 'Peak" I think @ 4800 rpm ? when used in conjunction with the better Exhaust Manifolds, Valve Springs, Windage Tray etc.

The NON "Magnum" factory 330 HP 383 4 BBL Engines, although rated close at "330" HP (sounds CLOSE to the "335" HP right ?), was actually a completely different animal nowhere near it's 335 HP cousin Performance-wise, because it utilized a 32* overlap 256/260 Cam around .425" Lift. that peaked by about 4400 rpm.
SOME.... but not all 1968 to 1970 383 2 BBL Engines used this cam as well, and were rated at 290 HP

Then there was the more commonly found 383 2 BBL camshaft @ .410" Lift 248/248 , also rated at 290 HP because it seems Chrysler didn't want to make distinctions ? Who knows ?

All I DO KNOW.... is that if you just bolt a 4 BBL Intake and Carb on a factory 383 2 BBL Engine, using the Factory "2 BBL" Cam.... don't go thinking you will have anywhere near the factory "335" HP magnum Engine Performance,
you won't !
And even if you do have the better 32* overlap 2 BBL cam, the difference between the 4400 rpm "330" Horse 4 BBL Engine, and the "335" 48* overlap Magum Cammed Engine is dramatic !, as in NO comparison !

[Sublime/Sixpack]

My 1968 Charger is pretty close to stock...my step dad did go from single to dual exhaust in the early 70's but otherwise pretty much unmolested.

So, here is the question - Do you think it will negatively affect the value of the car to go to a 4 barrel?

-To answer this part of your question, I'd say if you make the 4 bbl. upgrade look factory stock it wont affect the value of the car. (Keep the original parts though).
Having said that, like others have said you're not going to realize a big increase in horsepower if your engine has a very mild cam.
-Maybe you should just drive and enjoy it the way it is now.
-Another option would be to pull the original engine, find and build another big block the way you want it then install it. (And keep the original engine stock, store it properly so it can go with the car if you choose to sell).

[Scaregrabber]

Keep the old parts. I agree on making it look stock, however I would be tempted to buy an aluminum (perhaps painted to match the engine) dual plane manifold for it and a new carburetor. I bought new trucks with 400 2bbls back in the day and even with the lousy cams they still responded well to swapping on 4 barrel setups.

Sheldon

[rodneyramjet]

Thanks all for the great advice.  I wouldn't have made the cam connection in the performance equation without it being brought up here...such is the level of my knowledge about these things.

The advice that I have gotten most consistently...both here and at local car buff gatherings, is to "drive the car".  That is the advice that resonates most powerfully and I intend to do just that.  Today I drove it about 25 miles to a nearby small town for a car show with about 150 entrants.  It was the only Gen 1, 2, or 3 Charger there.  Lots of mustangs, camaros, vettes, but of all the Mopars mine was the only old Charger.  Lots of people had nice comments even with the small dents, chips in the paint, and the lowly 383 / 2 barrel powerplant.

It still gets interested looks from other people on the road and being able to go from 0-60 one second faster isn't going to change the fun factor all that much.  Thanks to the input here and at the show today I think I should figure what driveability improvements I should make rather than worry about horsepower.

The advice to take the motor out and store it and build a upgraded motor sounds very enticing....but I don't have the skills, money, or workspace necessary to do that.  Still it is a very cool idea.

A pic from the show today

[Scaregrabber]

Great car. I doesn't sound like you need to win any street races so sure why not make sure the car is properly tuned up and drive it as is. Do you know anyone that can clean and rebuild the 2 barrel carburator? It is really easy but not many have worked on them these days.

Sheldon

[Challenger340]

That thing is a BEAUT !

Drive it and enjoy it.... everything comes to he who waits !

[Kern Dog]

A member here just got his 68 back from the paint shop...His is the same color!

[BSB67]

Put the 4 bbl on it.

It WILL make a big difference (relatively speaking) .  You will feel it in your butt, and it shows up on a time slip in a big way. When we were young that was all we did.  I've even done it recently on an application where I even thought it would not make a difference and it did.  I can say that I have probably done this 8 times, and every time it make a noticeable difference.

Yes, the cam is smaller, yes the compression ratio is lower.  Yes, it will not be the 383 hipo of 68-69.

The reason it makes such an improvement is because it (carb and 2 bbl intake) is the bottle neck.  

Lets compare the 1967 383 hipo to what you are considering.  You have a way better exhaust (assuming it is the 68-69 hipo exhaust), you have a much better cylinder head, You have a better intake manifold (if you use a 68-69 intake), and you have the same cam.  Essentially you will have something closer to the 68 hipo than the 67 hipo.  And trust me, no 2 bbl car will keep up with you.

Do you know what else those silly Chrysler engineers did. Not only did they put a 4 bbl on the 67 383 hipo with that small cam, but they even put a 4 bbl with that cam on 440 in 67 -70 ( and maybe longer) with single exhaust.

Put the 4 bbl on it and you will look back at the responses to this post and chuckle, I promise.

[Bronzedodge]

The other big improvement would be ignition and timing.  If you do go for the 4 bbl, at least a quicker advance curve will help the fun factor.   

[XH29N0G]

I can see why your car was complemented.  It looks very nice and like it has been driven.  There is a lot of good advice given above so I won't add to that.  What I will add, is how I would frame the situation if it were mine.  I would decide whether I was going to sell it soon, and whether it mattered more to me to keep it original or to modify as I saw fit.  In my case, I decided to modify and have not regrets whatsoever.  The little projects, and there are many, keep me busy, lower my blood pressure, and keep me sane.  For me, that offsets any loss in price I have.  Besides I bought my car for $1000 in 1983 with the agreement that my dad would have first refusal to buy back (at the same price) should I ever decide to sell.  So I have the benefit of a situation where it might never lose value  If you make changes, or pay someone to do that for you, ask people here for their thoughts because you will get some very useful information.   

[69CoronetRT]

The cam on a 383-2bbl and a 383-4bbl 330 horse is the same.
The biggest differences between the 2 and 4bbl were the compression and exhaust manifolds.

So will switching to a 4bbl help performance? Yes, but any advantages will still be mitigated by low compression and manifolds. You'll be putting more into the cylinder and not addressing how to get it out. "Back in the day" adding a 4bbl and headers was a work around to pulling the engine and adding compression. The 4bbl assembly was more than just adding a carb.

Is a 4bbl more fun and have the cool factor compared to a 2bbl? Yes. But is the cool factor really worth the effort for not a lot to gain if you do not address compression and exhaust? That's a judgement call.

the 69 parts book is shown for the exhaust manifolds but the same PNs apply for 68.

[BrianShaughnessy]

Do what you want but don't get hung up on it's 'value'.    Is it a barn find Hemi 4 speed?  No...  so don't sweat it.    It's not like you're gonna throw the old carb and manifold out.   They're just going on a shelf someplace.

If you had the engine rebuilt,  you wouldn't be able to get a stock 2 bbl cam anyway unless you had it custom ground.   And who'd bother doing that?

[rodneyramjet]

More good stuff...thanks all

I just looked and my driver side header, it is 2843992-2.  The right side is 2806900.

I know it came as a single exhaust and was changed to dual exhaust by my stepdad....I'm not sure how he went about doing that.

While we had a great relationship I regret not asking him more questions about stuff...the car, his memories, or life in general.  I know he regretted not spending the extra $700 for the hemi and that he wished it had a sure-grip rear end.

I do have the build sheet

[69CoronetRT]

Last code, top row 703. Corporate lease-Executive.

Do you know any history on the car?

[BSB67]

I just looked and my driver side header, it is 2843992-2.  The right side is 2806900.

Those are the 68-69 hipo manifolds.

[rodneyramjet]

My stepdad bought it and signed the warranty booklet "Delivery Date" line on 1-30-68.  The first entry in the "Required Maintenance Services - Owners Record" is dated 4-9-69 and has a mileage of 16,100.  I have gone through life thinking he bought it new but I kind of doubt he put 16k miles on it in 4 months?  By the time of the service on 9-1-69 the car had 22,000 miles on it.  Since I got it running this year I have put about 200 miles on it and the odometer now sits at 72,400 miles.

The first time I saw the car was in late August of 69 when he showed up to take my mom out on a date.  They were married 46 years and sadly both passed away in 2016.

The car was parked in the garage at their home in La Mesa, CA in late 1983 and remained there until I winched it onto a trailer and brought it to Arizona late last December.  My mom was always kinda pissed that he never got the car going in all those years because she also loved the car and was also pissed she never in all her years got to park her car in the garage.

I've got a ton of stories about the car and so do my siblings, cousins, and neighborhood kids I grew up with...it is a time machine.

Just checked...the intake manifold is part # 2843681 with date code 4-23

A quick check of the internet shows part # 2806301 as the 4 barrel intake manifold for years 68-69.  I'm starting to think I should hunt one up and find a carb to match!!!

Wow...I've flip-flopped at least twice now in the course of this topic...


****added---whoops math error above..from 1-30-68 to 4-9-69 is more like 15 months so maybe he did buy it new and it was never a lease?   Sorry my bad....

[Q5XX29]

Great-looking Charger! My vote is to swap the 2-barrel for the 4-barrel carb/intake. Easy and relatively cheap to do, and undo. Be sure to post your impression of any difference you notice. I predict it won't be as much as you would like, but still worthwhile, and it will be rewarding in its own way every time you pop your hood. I do recall when my buddy did the same swap on his 1970 Sport Satellite with its factory 383 2-bbl. He didn't really notice a performance difference, but it sure did look much better, and he had no regrets.

[RCCDrew]

 I would recommend an aluminum dual plane intake and Street Demon 625 made by Holley. Best running carb I've ever had.

Like said above, just keep your original parts. That way you won't lose value over "originality ". Just like the wheels, anything you can change back shouldn't hurt your value.

[Sublime/Sixpack]

 
Wow...I've flip-flopped at least twice now in the course of this topic...

That can be part of the fun.   By the way, nice car!