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Installing Hydraboost and Wilwood MC, interference with shock?

Started by funknut, March 23, 2017, 09:02:20 AM

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funknut


As I was fitting everything up I found that the Wilwood MC is contacting the shock shaft on the top of the shock tower.  I'm using the Tallon Hydraulic booster with the Wilwood tandem master cyl.  Below are some not-super-great photos, but give you an idea of what I'm looking at. 







I found some pics in keepat's thread and it doesn't look like mine is in a dramatically different location:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,110212.msg1489887.html#msg1489887

To others that have installed either the Tallon or Hydratech units, have you had any issues with this?

Thanks,

Clay

Dino

I'm installing the same combo and had concerns regarding sufficient space for brake lines and a combo valve so I've looked at several pictures. They all come close to the shock bolt and some of the ones I've seen simply had less thread sticking out. Still W&Rs is not nearly as close to that bolt as yours (1st pic). If your mc moves back a tad would it make a difference? Because most don't have the stock booster plate on the firewall.

Here's a few shots:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

funknut

Thanks, Dino, those are some great photos.

I dropped the shock and tightened the MC in place and I have a decent amount space.  I think if I take off somewhere between 5 and 8 threads from the shock stud I should have enough to clear the MC with a bit to spare and still enough threads for the lock nut to bite.

One other thing I'm working against is that my car was repaired in the driver's front some time in the past, and they patched the inner fender with basically flat sheet metal from the shock tower back to the firewall, so I'm having to get a bit creative with some of the cable/tube/hose routing.  It could very well be that there's some distortion in the firewall that's tweaking the booster/MC towards the shock mount.

The MC would have to move back almost a full 2" to be out of the way of the shock stud.

Appreciate the help!

Dino

My pleasure!   :cheers:

Sounds like a crappy repair they did there! That doesn't make it easier. Do you have room for brake lines on the driver side or will you have the use the engine side? Are you installing a prop or combo valve? I really like the newer style that can be mount on either side of that master. Same valve Keepat is using but he's mounting it differently.  I wanted to mount mine on the engine side but it may be too close to the hp exhaust manifold. I may have to do what Pat did.

What brakes are you running? I'm assuming you got the 1.12" master?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

funknut


Everything is very tight against the inner fender, so no chance of being able to route the valve on the fender side.  I bought the Wilwood combo valve and it came with the LH bracket, so I'll need to either modify the bracket or see if they'll send me the RH bracket.  Eyeballing it on the engine side it looks like it's going to get awfully close to the headers, so I'm weighing my options.  Might be fun to mount it under the dash for easy burnouts. :)

I am using the brackets that Vlad made to adapt the Ford Mustang calipers and the 13.2" rotors.  It's a tight fit even with 18" wheels but I made it work with some grinding.  I have yet to start mocking up the rears.

And yep, I have the 1.12" MC.

I played around with the booster and tried mounting it upside down to see if there was any chance I'd gain some clearance, but nope.  I ended up grinding off 5-6 threads from the shock stud and now I have some space.  I figure it's not much more than 1/16".  I can take off a few more threads if I need to.  I'm going to run it like this for a while and see if there's any more contact.

Thanks again!