Main harness replacement, anyone done this? 68 Charger A/T

[ErikH]

Gentlemen,

Well, I've managed to cook the harness behind the instrument panel pretty well.  The heavy wires that go through the alternator gauge have fused together and some other wires have been affected.  I know there is a reproduction harness, but it looks like a pretty big job.  Anyone have any tips or experience with this task which might make it go better?

Thx,

Erik

[M5Ivan]

I haven't but I'm sure somebody will chime in that's done it. With that being said after I took out my instrument cluster and glove box I found that my harness looks pretty new and it looks like something I could replace on my own if I had too. I did replace my engine harness and bulkhead connector a few weeks ago and it wasn't hard at all, just time consuming.
Good luck!

[lukedukem]

I did the same on my 69 charger. Fried some wires and had to replace the whole dash harness. To make it easy as possible, get the correct factory reproduction. And the field service manual. If someone like me that's color deficient can do it. Anyone can. Took me a whole weekend. Good luck

Luke

[Dino]

The electrical on these cars is pretty straightforward. The biggest issue really is access to everything but once you have done some disassembling it shouldn't be too bad of a job. Make sure you find the reason this mess started in the first place though or it's bound to happen again.

I'd label the wires as you remove them so that when you have the entire harness out you can lay it next to the new harness and tag that as well. It'll make reassembly a whole lot easier.

[ErikH]

Thanks Gents.  I ordered the replacement harness and I already have the FSM.  Your advice is well taken...especially labeling the harness.

Erik

[BLK 68 R/T]

On the back of the amp gauge, there is an insulating strip across the 2 studs to keep the wires from grounding to the cluster housing. Make certain when you install the new harness that the strip is there and in good shape, otherwise you will be in the same situation as you are now. If your strip is damaged you can make a new one pretty easily out of a hard non conductive material such fiber washers.

[pettybird]

removing the cluster and glove box liner are a big help--I have 70's here and am not sure how hard it is to pull the cluster on one with pads?.  you'll need to pull both kick panels, too.  remember to install a fish tape/line/string to each door switch wire as it's a PITA to stuff the wires in there.

It's also a HUGE help if you take out the front seats--that way you can lay down with your feet on the rear seat and work flat on your back.

[ErikH]

Great advice Gents.  I've already removed the glove box liner and I anticipate removing the radio and A/C venting.  I was thinking I'd remove the steering wheel just to get another obstacle out of the way.  Since the harness arrived this afternoon from Year One, I might give it a go this weekend.  Wish me luck.

V/R

Erik

[Al]

Keep us updated. I'm about to do the same.

[JR]

Its really not hard at all once you remove the dash panels that are in the way. Mine sat in a box for two months while I put off doing the job.

Once I got around to it, I had it done in half a sunday.

Just have the manual on hand for reference,  and take photos before you disassemble it. Its no big deal.

[ErikH]

Good to hear.  Thanks

[Al]

Erik,

How did it go ?

Al

[ErikH]

Okay,
Harness is in.  I did an electrical function check this afternoon with a fellow gearhead standing by the battery just in case a quick removal of power was in order.  Only thing not functioning are the power windows.  I must have neglected a connection somewhere. 

The Year One provided harness seems to be pretty good.  Only difference I detected was a tighter fit between male an female connectors...a few of them took a bit of effort to get them seated.  With a passing knowledge of the harness, it is a straightforward job to remove and replace it.  Since I fried the old harness, I was very cautious of doing the same to the new one. 

While I am fooling around behind the dash I'll replace the non-functioning heater control valve and the parking brake switch.  I also replaced the headlight switch with a domestically-produced version.  Tomorrow I'll troubleshoot the power window issue and replace the heater control valve.

Lessons learned:  Check the photos you take while doing this job.  Crucial photos were blurry which slowed me down when re-assembling.  I took photos of the wiring plugged onto top of the fuse box...and there are a few of them.  Blurry pics didn't help that much.

I look forward to completing this job and then beginning the fuel-injection conversion.