Picked up my 68 Charger, tons of pics!

[Moparsaver]

Congratulations.      The car is AWESOME!!   Enjoy driving it.   

[qwick68]

Very nice, congrats

[68 RT]

WOW! Very nice 68.

[crj1968]

Looks great ! And I see you have plenty of room for it.      


Drive it... drive it.... drive it

[mightywing7]

Love the color!! (I may be a bit partial though...).

Best of luck with your new toy! 

[moparfan53]

Nice car you have done well. I would gladly have it in my garage.  Chrome se pedal trims.?

AFAIK, the chrome pedal trim was not available in '68. I would have added it also though, I like the looks of it. I added to my '69 which did not have it.

To the OP; Great car!!

A/C and cruise control, very cool (no pun intended  ) .... cannot be a lot of cars with both.

[moparfan53]

Damn that's a mighty fine machine! Has all the right options as well. I hope you'll be driving this beast a lot, despite it's exceptional condition.

I wonder why only one headrest, was that an option?

Congrats on your acquisition.   

Yes, you could order either side or both.

[Dino]

Damn that's a mighty fine machine! Has all the right options as well. I hope you'll be driving this beast a lot, despite it's exceptional condition.

I wonder why only one headrest, was that an option?

Congrats on your acquisition.   

Yes, you could order either side or both.

Did not know that. Thanks!   

[Dans 68]

Interesting that no one has brought this up yet. Being that your car was a May 1968 build (relatively late), it most likely did not come from the factory with the dart emblem behind the "Charger" sail panel emblem. But I have a Dec 26 1967 build date '68 that has it (previous owner installed it) and it looks good to me. Enjoy your gem.    http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,53761.msg594026.html#msg594026

Dan

[Lennard]

Interesting that no one has brought this up yet. Being that your car was a May 1968 build (relatively late), it most likely did not come from the factory with the dart emblem behind the "Charger" sail panel emblem. But I have a Dec 26 1967 build date '68 that has it (previous owner installed it) and it looks good to me. Enjoy your gem.    http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,53761.msg594026.html#msg594026

Dan

It was mentioned in this thread...

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127297.0.html

[Dans 68]

Interesting that no one has brought this up yet. Being that your car was a May 1968 build (relatively late), it most likely did not come from the factory with the dart emblem behind the "Charger" sail panel emblem. But I have a Dec 26 1967 build date '68 that has it (previous owner installed it) and it looks good to me. Enjoy your gem.    http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,53761.msg594026.html#msg594026

Dan

It was mentioned in this thread...

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127297.0.html

Dan

[charge69]

That is a mighty fine '68 Charger ! Really pretty !!  Enjoy driving it and the attention it gets and deserves !!

[INTMD8]

Appreciate the kind words, I can't wait to drive it! 

Strange that it has the emblem on the sail panel. Hard to see but in the vintage photos I have of the car it appears to be there as well but probably was just added on sometime early in it's life.

I'm going to tackle the wrinkles in the top this weekend. Plan is to remove the roof rail and 1/4 window moldings, peel back the vinyl and re-glue.

Also tried the 8-track player. It works but plays slower than it should so I'll need to send it out for repair.

[alfaitalia]

I realise you already have a plan but getting it to re-stick flat (i.e. without blobs of the old stretched snot like glue leaving bumps under the vinyl) can be very difficult after you peel the top off. I have had luck in the past by using thin glue in a hypodermic needle and syringe and injecting it into the bubbles. Work the glue around in the air pocket with your fingers and then work to the centre.....excess glue and any remaining air will purge through the tiny hole made by the needle and the glue seals the hole.....just a thought!  

[INTMD8]

Doing that would be much easier! Really wasn't looking forward to getting the trim off.

It's just that there are several spots so didn't know if that method would work. Are the needle holes noticable? I think it would take several and don't want her ending up looking like a heroin addict   

Do you remember what kind of glue you used?   Thanks

[alfaitalia]

It was an impact adhesive....a polyurethane based one....cant remember which brand but they are all much of a muchness. Could not see holes at all ....just like when you have an injection ...its so fine that the hole closes as the needle is withdrawn.

[INTMD8]

Thanks I will give it a try 

[CDN72SE]

Beautiful car, enjoy it.

[INTMD8]

 

Well after looking at it some more I took a chance and removed the trim to peel the top back and re-glue. Taped around the perimeter of the area that needed to come up for a guide. After re-gluing I flattened it all down with a plastic body filler spreader.  Also put strong magnets on the trouble areas overnight.

So far it seems good, guess time will tell if it stays down.

[Baldwinvette77]

Nice 

[Dino]

Great job!   

Nice caddy back there. 

Never thought about putting a pool table in my garage...makes sense though...

[Homerr]

Nice repair!

[tan top]

    clever idea with magnets 

[INTMD8]

Thanks guys.

Took it for a drive last night. Runs and drives great! A few issues however.

Seems I have no heat and the blower motor is weak. Heater hoses at the firewall are hot. Temp control slide doesn't seem to do anything. I can see the cable is attached and moving at the slide but not sure where it connects to on the other end. Any help here before my repair manual comes in?

Other than that the dash creaks a lot and no instrument cluster lights.

I guess for a 49 year old car not too long of a repair list

[Dino]

No that's nothing major for the old girl!

So either the heater valve won't open, or the heater core is plugged up. The heater cable goes from the slider to the heater valve on the firewall. When you remove the 3 screws from the valve you can pull it away from the firewall and see the cable. The FSW explains how to fine tune it. There's a turnbuckle on the cable to fine tune it as well. Be careful removing the valve as there's a capillary tube attached to it. When you stick your head under the dash on the passenger side, you'll see a small oval plate attached with two screws. Remove it and you can guide it through he hole in the firewall. Check the plunger in the heater valve and make sure it moves freely. With the valve out you can also test the seal on the plunger to ensure it not only moves but actually seals the tube as well. If not, the seal is available on ebay. The seal needs to block the flow of water completely or you won't be able to turn the heater off.

If the core is blocked you can try to flush it but if that fails you're going to have to remove the entire box.

Blower can be a resistor issue or a problem with the switch. And likely other things I can't think of right now. Disconnect it at the firewall and put a battery on it, it should spin quickly. If it doesn't maybe the fan itself needs cleaning. Remove the 3 screws on the edge of the blower and pull it out into the engine bay.

Dash lights are controlled by a single fuse but the tail lights should be on the same fuse. Check there first at least. Fuse box is behind the glove box. Maybe it's a wire or bulb issue. No idea why the dash is creaking!