400-451 advice

[Challenger340]

As stated, the costs associated at OUR shop today, doing a 451 the "old ways" we used to do it 40 years ago, is just plain prohibitive compared with just purchasing a new Stroker Kit Crank/Rods/Pistons nowadays.
The Stroker Kits allow more options.... and are also just plain better/stronger parts.

That said,
my only point was "IF" you are a DIY kinda guy ? and have the abilities/Labor with access to the equipment for yourself ? BIG "IF's" ? then yes, a 451 can be done with the stock 440 Crank and LY Rods.
We never/ever hurt our old 451's done that way.... but we were always running up at 4,500 ft elevations, so the Block was never actually seeing the full effects of a sea level power, nonetheless, we used to spin the Engines quite hard(6,800 rpm) and never experienced a failure on the LY Rods that were beamed, re-surface hardened, and Sized with ARP Bolts.  
If a guy is only running 5,500-5,700 rpm on the 1.31" to 1.34" C.D. 451 Piston/Pin being almost 1 Lb lighter than a 440 Piston, you can skip the beam/harden on the LY's, but ARP Bolts and resizing is a must, and of course some known "history" on the 45 year old LY's is also nice ?

Some do's
* If you do get the Crank journals ground ? make dam sure they grind it "lowside" ! or the small sizing on the spec ! on both the Rods & Mains, that way you have room to work and attain adequate Vertical Bearing Clrc without taking the Rod big ends over-range(spec).

* Pin-Fit the 1.094" Pins in the Piston @ .0008" to .001", because you are still running the press/Interference in the LY Rod, which, it is also nice to size/Pin-Fit that interference fit @ -.0010" to - .0012"  to limit Pin distortion.... yes, they will distort at higher uneven crush.

* Do NOT Beam the Rods unless you know what you are doing. You may do more harm than good.

The 452's even with stock valves but done properly, can supply adequate air Flow up to 500 hp with the right Camshaft, but I would suggest mid 9's for CR be maintained due to the lack of good quench on the 452 open chamber, and with Camshafts 230'ish to 240 @ .050 for low 5,000's rpm, just a fun driver up to 5500.

In conclusion.... STOP and think real hard here !
Because once done, for the money spent doing it this way, and the TIME ? I highly doubt you are saving much, versus... what you could attain in the final product buying a Stroker Kit & AL Heads ? More options... more power...

[Wicked72]

plus a nice set of the piston like the ones I'm selling LOL.

However, they are for 400 rods, not 440, soooooo... you could keep your stock 400 and save those $80

you asked about camshaft. I installed a Crower 282HDP and is powerfull. Very streetable and nice lumpy iddle to still keep A/C
Pm me with the price!
also got a MP 280/.474 that I could sell too ( was not thinking on that, but needing money to finish my car ). Box got wet for long time, and camshaft got some rusty holes on front journal. Polished and even holes are still there, won't hurt anything. I just changed to the Crower because the 112º centerline makes it more streetable allong with less duration at .050 on intake ( per what I have learnt reading here ). A friend of mine had the MP cam on his 400 with KB240 pistons and was to much lumpy to my purpouse.

[Wicked72]

As stated, the costs associated at OUR shop today, doing a 451 the "old ways" we used to do it 40 years ago, is just plain prohibitive compared with just purchasing a new Stroker Kit Crank/Rods/Pistons nowadays.
The Stroker Kits allow more options.... and are also just plain better/stronger parts.

That said,
my only point was "IF" you are a DIY kinda guy ? and have the abilities/Labor with access to the equipment for yourself ? BIG "IF's" ? then yes, a 451 can be done with the stock 440 Crank and LY Rods.
We never/ever hurt our old 451's done that way.... but we were always running up at 4,500 ft elevations, so the Block was never actually seeing the full effects of a sea level power, nonetheless, we used to spin the Engines quite hard(6,800 rpm) and never experienced a failure on the LY Rods that were beamed, re-surface hardened, and Sized with ARP Bolts.  
If a guy is only running 5,500-5,700 rpm on the 1.31" to 1.34" C.D. 451 Piston/Pin being almost 1 Lb lighter than a 440 Piston, you can skip the beam/harden on the LY's, but ARP Bolts and resizing is a must, and of course some known "history" on the 45 year old LY's is also nice ?

Some do's
* If you do get the Crank journals ground ? make dam sure they grind it "lowside" ! or the small sizing on the spec ! on both the Rods & Mains, that way you have room to work and attain adequate Vertical Bearing Clrc without taking the Rod big ends over-range(spec).

* Pin-Fit the 1.094" Pins in the Piston @ .0008" to .001", because you are still running the press/Interference in the LY Rod, which, it is also nice to size/Pin-Fit that interference fit @ -.0010" to - .0012"  to limit Pin distortion.... yes, they will distort at higher uneven crush.

* Do NOT Beam the Rods unless you know what you are doing. You may do more harm than good.

The 452's even with stock valves but done properly, can supply adequate air Flow up to 500 hp with the right Camshaft, but I would suggest mid 9's for CR be maintained due to the lack of good quench on the 452 open chamber, and with Camshafts 230'ish to 240 @ .050 for low 5,000's rpm, just a fun driver up to 5500.

In conclusion.... STOP and think real hard here !
Because once done, for the money spent doing it this way, and the TIME ? I highly doubt you are saving much, versus... what you could attain in the final product buying a Stroker Kit & AL Heads ? More options... more power...

I'm definitely going to weigh my options before i finally pulk the trigger.

[Nacho-RT74]

plus a nice set of the piston like the ones I'm selling LOL.

However, they are for 400 rods, not 440, soooooo... you could keep your stock 400 and save those $80

you asked about camshaft. I installed a Crower 282HDP and is powerfull. Very streetable and nice lumpy iddle to still keep A/C
Pm me with the price!
also got a MP 280/.474 that I could sell too ( was not thinking on that, but needing money to finish my car ). Box got wet for long time, and camshaft got some rusty holes on front journal. Polished and even holes are still there, won't hurt anything. I just changed to the Crower because the 112º centerline makes it more streetable allong with less duration at .050 on intake ( per what I have learnt reading here ). A friend of mine had the MP cam on his 400 with KB240 pistons and was to much lumpy to my purpouse.

you meant the pistons? already PMd you the link with the ad posted here

MP camshaft... dunno

Need to note and being honest: I did my Stroker with stock parts because is what I had in hands, and finantially, just spent "big bucks" on pistons and camshaft. Machine job here is/was WAY CHEAPER ( also lower quality, but that's a diff story ) than what you pay up there, and stroker kits are made of "unobtenium" for us.

So make your maths on build costs and the final proyect you want to reach, althought I really wish ( and need ) to sell my pistons ( which are priced a bit cheaper than Summit sells ).