383 or 400 compression ratio question

[Bad B-rad]

What is the highest compression ratio you can go with a stock to .030 over 383/400 engine with aluminum heads(440 source,Eddie,or trick flow)and stock Magnum cam and 93 octane fuel?
I thought I read  you could go as high as 12.5 or 13 to 1 because the aluminum heads dissipate the heat so much more quickly then the iron ones.
Would this be a good way to raise power with out stroking the engine and could that engine make 450+hp,while appearing stock(with painted 440 source heads,stock hp exhaust,and painted Mopar aluminum duel plane intake?
My goal would be a stock looking and sounding(cam lope wise)engine that could be daily driven and has maybe 100hp over stock.
If this can't be done,or won't work as I thought,maybe I could just do a stock rebuild  of a 383/400 to Magnum specs,with good set of forged pistons with the rings set up for 150hp of nitrous. So that the car runs fine for every day driving but wont get its ass kicked by a Honda.
I have a kit that installs in the air cleaner so you can not even tell the car has nitrous unless you take top of air cleaner off,I got that kit because a little Honda almost got me one time in the 1/4 mile in my 66 Charger. So my father and I put the kit on, just in case we needed that little something extra.
The kit is called the "Top Shot" and it came with jets for 75,100,150HP,I think. But the guys at the tech line told me you can buy jets to go up to 200hp. I never had it set higher then 100hp,because the engine was stock and I didn't want to retard the timing,I know they have some sort of timing controllers that  retards the timing only when you use the kit.
I would like to build the engine and not use the bottle,what are your thoughts?
 

[Troy]

I'm no expert but I'm gonna guess that to get that compression you're going to need pistons. So by the time you add pistons and good aluminum heads why would you limit them with a stock cam (and exhaust)? Once you get that much air moving you'll need a different cam to "act stock" any way I'd think. A good running 383 shouldn't have much of a problem with most Hondas out there (at least the ones I've seen). There are plenty of "sleeper"/stock looking builds on this site that make really good power. Maybe not low deck blocks but the basics are the same. A 451 stroker (400 block) with a mild cam would sound close enough to stock to fool most people.

The biggest problem is typically traction so instead of trying to get compression that you'll hate on the street you should get some good tires and springs.

And adding nitrous without a way to retard the timing seems like a great way to destroy a lot of work.

Troy

[Challenger340]

What is the highest compression ratio you can go with a stock to .030 over 383/400 engine with aluminum heads(440 source,Eddie,or trick flow)and stock Magnum cam and 93 octane fuel?
I thought I read  you could go as high as 12.5 or 13 to 1 because the aluminum heads dissipate the heat so much more quickly then the iron ones.
Would this be a good way to raise power with out stroking the engine and could that engine make 450+hp,while appearing stock(with painted 440 source heads,stock hp exhaust,and painted Mopar aluminum duel plane intake?
My goal would be a stock looking and sounding(cam lope wise)engine that could be daily driven and has maybe 100hp over stock.
If this can't be done,or won't work as I thought,maybe I could just do a stock rebuild  of a 383/400 to Magnum specs,with good set of forged pistons with the rings set up for 150hp of nitrous. So that the car runs fine for every day driving but wont get its ass kicked by a Honda.
I have a kit that installs in the air cleaner so you can not even tell the car has nitrous unless you take top of air cleaner off,I got that kit because a little Honda almost got me one time in the 1/4 mile in my 66 Charger. So my father and I put the kit on, just in case we needed that little something extra.
The kit is called the "Top Shot" and it came with jets for 75,100,150HP,I think. But the guys at the tech line told me you can buy jets to go up to 200hp. I never had it set higher then 100hp,because the engine was stock and I didn't want to retard the timing,I know they have some sort of timing controllers that  retards the timing only when you use the kit.
I would like to build the engine and not use the bottle,what are your thoughts?
 

Static Compression Ratio doesn't matter a hill of beans, because it is modified by Cam events.... what you really need to pay attention to as far as Fuel quality or Octane, is the actual DYNAMIC Compression Ratio or DCR from whatever Cam Events(Camshaft) you use in your Engine.
Google and research DCR on the internet for yourself here OK ?

Also be aware of the differences in Forged Piston Alloys as it relates to Nitrous Oxide useage, Ring End Gaps, etc., etc. and best ways to feed Gasoline to the Nitrous side System, and NO... just "tee'ing" into the stock fuel line feeding the Engine is a bad idea, especially with a stock 5/16" Fuel Line.

400-500 hp on 91 Octane using Stealth Heads is childsplay on a 440 nowadays, but be aware, ALL or ANY Engine combination will require adequate support systems present in the Car ie: Cooling System, Fuel System, Trans/Convertor, conduscive Gears/Tires, etc., etc for the application.... so whatever the Engine budget ? DOUBLE it and put the other half into the rest of the Car !

[Bad B-rad]

I appreciate, all advice, I am a union mechanic that works on heavy equipment, but have been "Hot rodding" Mopars  for just about 20 years, so I have some knowledge about building things correct, ie a cooling system to handle extra heat,and an auto transmission built to handle the power and a converter to work with the cam and rear gears. I am not an expert but I am not a virgin.
I kinda want to stick with a 383/400 block and stock stroke. I know a 440 is easy to get my power goals, but I would like to stick with the stock short stroke of a 383/400. I totally get what was said about upgrading the heads to flow and then not taking advantage of it with a cam. I just don't want a HUGE choppy cam. I want the engine to be fairly smooth idle. I forget what cam was in my last 440,I know it was a mopar purple shaft,I want to say it was a 284 degree 474 lift. I will have to look, and that was a great cam, but I want something a little smaller this time.
That cam I think had 60 degrees of overlap. Again I understand that out of 360 degrees that cam will have valves open 284 of that 360 and for 60 degrees both valves were open,and so some of my compression was bleeding out the valves.
I Just looking for info on how to make extra power with compression.
I know you can make power through better flowing heads, or through more fuel, or through less parasitic loss(roller cam/lifters,roller rockers and so on)
I know that rule of thumb for street engine with iron heads is 10 to 1.
But can an aluminum head 383/400 street engine handle 12.5 to 1? What can it handle,and what power would it make.
It may just not be a good idea to do, I am not set on that combo. I just wanted to educate myself, before spending money.
Again I want peoples advice, just want people to know I do know a bit about hot rodding.

[Troy]

With the popularity of EFI swaps these days it's not hard to find a cam that isn't "choppy" because you need a somewhat decent vacuum signal for the EFI sensors. But still better than stock.

Coonhunter here on the site was running a 383 for a long time that performed well. I have one floating around my garage that I'll put in something some day - but it will remain "as delivered" just because I don't want to put a bunch of money into it when I have a pile of 440s too. Hemigeno has a 440 build for his Daytona that looks stock externally.

I don't think you'll like 12.5:1 on the street even if it is possible. I don't know that it is with straight 93 octane. I could be wrong.

Troy

[c00nhunterjoe]

Short answer! No.

1: to my knowledge,  there are no off the shelf 400 pistons that are capable of that compression ratio. So you will have more money in a custom set of pistons then a basic stroker rotating assembly will cost.

2: stock rods dont like a ton of rpm and spray.

3: air cleaner based nos systems on a carb = disaster.

4: 12.5...11, 10.5:1.... on pump gas with a stock cam is not going to work. The dcr will be too high.

5: everything challenger340 stated. The myth of static compression ratio dictating octane requirements is false. Dynamic compression dictates octane. Static and cam profile (and a few other details) make up  dynamic compression which results in required fuel used.

[Bad B-rad]

Also I was always told to retard timing 2 degrees for every 50hp shot of juice. I gave my stock 67 383 a 100hp shot on a regular basics' for two years and I backed timing off 3 degree, with no issues.Maybe I was just lucky.
When I built my last 440, I had Keith Black pistons with the ring gapped for light nitrous use. ended up never using the NOS on the 440,but when I rebuilt the motor I intended to but just didn't.
If I was going to build  a motor to run a  NOS shot I would to it correctly, I am not rich and don't want to break stuff that I worked hard for to build. So I would do my homework first.
I put the nitrous set up on my 66 because I could take the "Hondas"(code for a Japanese 4 banger)  out of the hole,and one has not gotten me yet, but one time after dusting him out of the hole and putting some distance between us,he started to come on strong towards the end of the track. He caught me and made it to the middle of my door before the we crossed the finish line. I really just needed one more gear(727 auto, I got 3,he's got 5) But that's not cheap to do in a Mopar so for a street car that goes to the track 4-6 times a year I figured a shot of nitrous was what I needed just in case.

[Bad B-rad]

Thanks for the response,now those answers I can understand.
If I go with a stock 383 magnum rebuild (10 to 1 )and that's 335hp 425tq, what would be gained by upping the com ratio by a full point higher?
So it sounds like I will be limited to a strongly built 383 to factory magnum specs and a 100hp nitrous shot,just in case.
I want my Charger to look bone stock factory,its a 383 a/c car. I always hot rodded them so this one I want to do stock. I will probably use the 383 HP exhaust manifolds,as I am sure they add a few ponies vs the 383 4bbl a/c ones my car would have had.
Thank you guys.
 

[Bad B-rad]

So on a stock rebuilt magnum 383,if I use 440 stealth heads would that negatively effect the compression ratio as far as the aluminum heads dissipating the heat so quickly and acting like a smog motor(8 to1 vs 69's 10 to 1)
That's why I thought I could run 12.5 to 1 compression ratio, because by the time I use the aluminum  head it would "act" like 10 to 1

[PRH]

With the constraints of sound and appearance...... What you want...... Even if you don't think you do..... Is a 489 stroker built out of a 383 block using stealth heads and about 10:1cr with decent quençh.

Looks stock, can sound stock, make 100hp over stock, pump gas.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Search for russ (bsb67) on this forum. Check out his car. Looks and sounds stock. Under the hood it looks bone stock right down to the manifolds. Even column shifted. Runs low 11s and will not cost much for then the 383 you are talking about doing and will be a solid 2 seconds faster then your proposed 383 build on spray.

I suggest looking up prices to rebuild your 383 long block. You will find that its cheaper to buy a stroker kit. You can buy the basic "440 crank" kit and make your 383 a 438 and under the hood it will look no different but be stronger faster and cheaper then the 383 parts.


When looking at pistons, do not read advertised compression ratio. You must look at the compression height of the piston. Do the math as the manufactures are quite misleading. Quick reference for you-

b motor height- 9.98"
Stroke- 3.38
Rod length- 6.358
Which means for theoretical 0 deck your piston height needs to be 1.932. You will find alot of the cheaper 383 pistons will be in the 1.8 range and that translates to an 8:1 motor..... do the research, plug in the formulas and you will see why its nkt cost effective to build a stock stroke 383, 400 or even 440

[c00nhunterjoe]

So on a stock rebuilt magnum 383,if I use 440 stealth heads would that negatively effect the compression ratio as far as the aluminum heads dissipating the heat so quickly and acting like a smog motor(8 to1 vs 69's 10 to 1)
That's why I thought I could run 12.5 to 1 compression ratio, because by the time I use the aluminum  head it would "act" like 10 to 1

The basic rule you are talking about is actual the theory of 1 pt in theoretical compression. A measured 10:1 motor will act like a 9:1 with aluminum heads.

   As far as your other post about how much power by only upping compression: its proportionate. But basicly on your 330 hp build, raising 1 point in compression will gain aprroximately 5-10 hp.

[c00nhunterjoe]

With the popularity of EFI swaps these days it's not hard to find a cam that isn't "choppy" because you need a somewhat decent vacuum signal for the EFI sensors. But still better than stock.

Coonhunter here on the site was running a 383 for a long time that performed well. I have one floating around my garage that I'll put in something some day - but it will remain "as delivered" just because I don't want to put a bunch of money into it when I have a pile of 440s too. Hemigeno has a 440 build for his Daytona that looks stock externally.

I don't think you'll like 12.5:1 on the street even if it is possible. I don't know that it is with straight 93 octane. I could be wrong.

Troy

My 383 ran strong. It would walk on 440s that were comparably built. It was no race car though. It was also  NOT what alot of people on this forum are looking for in their builds today. It did not idle like a stock car, it would not fry the tires from an 800 rpm idle.  I built it to race on a budget, and race it i did. You cannot build that motor today cost effectivly as i had full access to a machine shop and did 90% of my own work. To pay a shop to mirror my build would be a stupid move because of the parts available today. Just tell a machine shop you want to rebuild a set of 516 heads and you will be laughed out of the place...

[Bad B-rad]

Well now all this advice is making me think.
Because it will only cost me a few hundred bucks and its nice to be able to move your project under its own power, while you work on it I will re ring and bearing the stock #matching 69 383,and that will give me time to think.
The last time I was in this exact  boat,my old man and I were going to rebuild the 383 in our 66 Charger,after I ordered the bearings and gaskets, we realized that for the price of pistons and a new valley pan,we could build a 440 with way more power.
But that's when we stopped driving the car that much,mabe it was the 32-3500 stall converter and 3.91 gears,I  don't know it stoped being as fun to drive all over. It had WAY more power but just a little to much strip for me then street. That's what I want to avoid with this car.  I like and want the bone stock look,but out of respect for it being a big block Charger, I want just a little more punch.
Have any of you been beat in your Charger by a car that SHOULD NOT have spanked you?
It comes down to HP/weight ratio and a little bit of gearing, and some of these smaller new cars have all that advantage.
Line up a stock 66-71 Hemi Charger or 440 against a New 2006-2016  Hemi Charger, Its not right.
If I am cruising around in my 69 and my wife come up behind me in her 2016 R/T I don't want her to win!!!
So I may have to toss around your advice on a stroker kit.I just love that quick rev'ing short stroke 383.

[Bad B-rad]

WOW only 5-15hp gained for one full point increase in compression ratio. I would have thought you would get like 50 to 75. I learned something today.
How low were the smog 440's and 400 like 8 to 1 or were they even less?

[heyoldguy]

So on a stock rebuilt magnum 383,if I use 440 stealth heads would that negatively effect the compression ratio as far as the aluminum heads dissipating the heat so quickly and acting like a smog motor(8 to1 vs 69's 10 to 1)
That's why I thought I could run 12.5 to 1 compression ratio, because by the time I use the aluminum  head it would "act" like 10 to 1

The basic rule you are talking about is actual the theory of 1 pt in theoretical compression. A measured 10:1 motor will act like a 9:1 with aluminum heads.

Nonsense! This belongs in the same bag of myths as the thin wall 440. I've seen the tests where the aluminum heads made more horsepower than the iron heads. Same cylinder head design, same compression, same flow rates.

[BSB67]

With the constraints of sound and appearance...... What you want...... Even if you don't think you do..... Is a 489 stroker built out of a 383 block using stealth heads and about 10:1cr with decent quençh.

Looks stock, can sound stock, make 100hp over stock, pump gas.

and, considering those self imposed constraints, will be cheaper to achieve your hp goal than with a stock stroke

[c00nhunterjoe]

So on a stock rebuilt magnum 383,if I use 440 stealth heads would that negatively effect the compression ratio as far as the aluminum heads dissipating the heat so quickly and acting like a smog motor(8 to1 vs 69's 10 to 1)
That's why I thought I could run 12.5 to 1 compression ratio, because by the time I use the aluminum  head it would "act" like 10 to 1

The basic rule you are talking about is actual the theory of 1 pt in theoretical compression. A measured 10:1 motor will act like a 9:1 with aluminum heads.

Nonsense! This belongs in the same bag of myths as the thin wall 440. I've seen the tests where the aluminum heads made more horsepower than the iron heads. Same cylinder head design, same compression, same flow rates.

I wasnt disputing horsepower. That is a no brainer. Given the only difference in 2 engines being aluminum vs iron heads, the iron head will require a higher octane fuel.

[Bad B-rad]

So on a stock 383/440 Magnum re build would aluminum heads add power or make it "act" like a 8 to 1 compression engine?
If it will add power how much with 440 source stealth heads. 

[Challenger340]

So on a stock 383/440 Magnum re build would aluminum heads add power or make it "act" like a 8 to 1 compression engine?
If it will add power how much with 440 source stealth heads. 

Are we talking "horsepower" ? as ability to do work @ rpm ?
or,
"seat of the pants" feel in the Car as it relates to Torque ?   

Think "horsepower" as the "ability to do work" @ rpm..... but what moves the Car is Torque, and across a much lower/wider rpm range. You can't spend all the Engines "time" at peak/best "horsepower".... hence why Torque as feel .... IMO again, waaaay more important than Horsepower ?
IMO,
Aluminum Heads are NOT the ticket on these older generation Carb'd Engines at lower Compression Ratios(8:1). Once again here.... everything affects everything else in an Engine, but It's just NOT a simple yes or no question without investigating DCR's etc ?
Did you read up on DYNAMIC Compression Ratio's (DCR) yet and educate yourself ?

[c00nhunterjoe]

As stated, you need to read up on dcr. You also need to read up on the stock replacement pistons.  If you are going to build a "stock replacement" motor, then you are going to end up with junk pistons that sit way down in the hole and be much lower compression then advertised and what you are thinking. You will be starting with a 7.8 to 8.0:1 engine. No matter what heads you put on it or how much nitrous you spray through it, it will still be a 14 second dog. We are beating a dead horse on this stock rebuild topic. If you are hell bent on putting the cheap stock parts in it  and a stock can, then why are you even considering buying heads at this point?

[Bad B-rad]

When I say I would build a stock spec engine I meant just that,  if in 1969 the 383 ran 10.2 to 1(just for argument sake) then, that's what I would run,(10.2 to 1) and what ever camshaft they ran stock, I would run that cam. That's what I meant.
Because Aluminum heads will "make a 10.1 engine act like a 9.1 engine",as stated here. I was wondering if you had a stock engine (10 to 1) and put on aluminum heads and no other changes, will it make more power then the same "stock" engine with iron heads?
And if it will make more power is it because the ports flow better then the org iron casting,because if a 10 to 1 engine with aluminum heads acts like 9 to 1 and 10 to 1 iron acts like 10 to 1, I would think cast iron wins(better flowing ports aside)
And also by that thinking you would have to build an engine with 11 to 1 compression ratio so that when you put on aluminum heads it would still act like 10 to 1?

[PRH]

IMO, there's really only one cost effective way to go about doing the stock stroke build for this application, and it basically doesn't target any specific hp goal.
It's just built to conform to the application, and then it just makes what it makes.

Rebuild the 383, zero deck with KB400 pistons, stealth heads, mild application friendly cam.
This will be around 9.5cr, and depending on which end of the suitable range of the cam you're on, should make upwards of 365-385hp on pump gas through magnum manifolds and a stock-ish intake(like a DP4B), with something a bit bigger than the OE 383 carb.

My feeling is, if that isn't enough power to satisfy you in this application, the only real solution to more power with no loss of drivability is more cubes.

[alfaitalia]

So on a stock 383/440 Magnum re build would aluminum heads add power or make it "act" like a 8 to 1 compression engine?
If it will add power how much with 440 source stealth heads.  

Are we talking "horsepower" ? as ability to do work @ rpm ?
or,
"seat of the pants" feel in the Car as it relates to Torque ?    

Think "horsepower" as the "ability to do work" @ rpm..... but what moves the Car is Torque, and across a much lower/wider rpm range. You can't spend all the Engines "time" at peak/best "horsepower".... hence why Torque as feel .... IMO again, waaaay more important than Horsepower ?
IMO,
Aluminum Heads are NOT the ticket on these older generation Carb'd Engines at lower Compression Ratios(8:1). Once again here.... everything affects everything else in an Engine, but It's just NOT a simple yes or no question without investigating DCR's etc ?
Did you read up on DYNAMIC Compression Ratio's (DCR) yet and educate yourself ?

A simpler way of getting your head around it is that torque it's the work a motor produces and horsepower is the rate at which it produces it. Also if you plot your horsepower or torque on a graph the area under the curves is far more important than the highest peak on it. The more area under the curve, the more torquey and "alive" the motor will feel. Horsepower only really defines the top speed of a vehicle...to get there you need torque.

[Bad B-rad]

I am not trying to prove any one wrong or argue just to argue, I am trying to learn. Like dynamic compression ratio, before this thread I never heard that term before.
So I am learning, and that's how you get better/become more knowledgeable about things by learning from your mistakes or picking the brains of people who do know. So please don't any one think I am being a smart ass or anything, I appreciate the knowledge.

And I also know the difference between torque and horsepower. And the best way I have ever explained it was torque is Mike Tyson's knock out punch,the measurement of his haymayker, just cock back and give it all he's got. And  horsepower is the measurement of his rapid punches, how hard he can hit as fast as he can.  
And yes torque moves cars off the line,and puts your head back in the seat. (torque breaks stuff LOL)

That is what kinda started this. I have a 5.7 Hemi I was thinking of putting in my 69,but the car is so org,that I think I have to stick with the 383.
And the 5.7 makes more hp,but I am not sure if its torque curve is anywhere comparable to the 383.
SO if I want to do a 383(or 400) to keep my car looking factory stock, and I want to do so and make as much power as I can. but, having self imposed restrictions of factory exhaust manifolds ,intake,heads,and carb. I figured my only way to make the engine make more power then it originally did in stock trim was to up the compression ratio,slap on painted 440 stealth heads, M1 duel plane intake(or DP4B) manifold,and maybe a step or two up in cam shaft.

[Bad B-rad]

IMO, there's really only one cost effective way to go about doing the stock stroke build for this application, and it basically doesn't target any specific hp goal.
It's just built to conform to the application, and then it just makes what it makes.

Rebuild the 383, zero deck with KB400 pistons, stealth heads, mild application friendly cam.
This will be around 9.5cr, and depending on which end of the suitable range of the cam you're on, should make upwards of 365-385hp on pump gas through magnum manifolds and a stock-ish intake(like a DP4B), with something a bit bigger than the OE 383 carb.

My feeling is, if that isn't enough power to satisfy you in this application, the only real solution to more power with no loss of drivability is more cubes.

I think you are correct, and it sucks to spend money twice but if after its built if is not fast enough I could add 100HP with my NOS kit, or a stock looking 440 magnum build. Then car would be correct looking for time period/the way the factory would have done it if it was a 440 car to start with.
I just wanted it to look like it did back when it was just a car(factory org),as if someone bought the car and is using it as intended as an automobile.and a 383 auto with pb,ps,and a/c is correct for my car.

[Troy]

Sorry you have to "stick with the 383"...
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0209-383-engine-restore/

Troy

[PRH]

I think you are correct, and it sucks to spend money twice but if after its built if is not fast enough I could add 100HP with my NOS kit, or a stock looking 440 magnum build. Then car would be correct looking for time period/the way the factory would have done it if it was a 440 car to start with.

Like I said earlier......... What you want is a 489 stroker.
It will look and sound exactly the same....... And will have the added 100hp without the need for a NOS kit.

[cdr]

I think you are correct, and it sucks to spend money twice but if after its built if is not fast enough I could add 100HP with my NOS kit, or a stock looking 440 magnum build. Then car would be correct looking for time period/the way the factory would have done it if it was a 440 car to start with.

Like I said earlier......... What you want is a 489 stroker.
It will look and sound exactly the same....... And will have the added 100hp without the need for a NOS kit.

      TRUST WHAT THIS MAN IS TELLING YOU !!!!!


I have a 512 built out of a 400 low deck, looks just like the 383 that came out of my 68 Charger & is a BLAST to drive.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Everything you just stated says that this pictured engine is what you want. If so, click the link to view russ's car and build.
http://508charger.yolasite.com/

[Bad B-rad]

I think the engine in the photo looks just like what I want only thing I would change is stock valve covers over the chrome ones and the intake manifold.

I do not doubt anyone's advice,hope  I don't come across that way. My thinking was that if I was going to do a stroker then I should bite the bullet and use a 440 block and go 500+ CI.
But  I love  the 383's power and relative fuel economy.
Does the 383/400 block have to have much work done for clearance when turning it into 489? Like notches and grinding for the extra stroke/rods?
How does the power come on in a 489?  Right there off idle? I was also thinking of idle to 5500 for the power range,thats why I was thinking Magnum cam.

 

[cdr]

I think the engine in the photo looks just like what I want only thing I would change is stock valve covers over the chrome ones and the intake manifold.

I do not doubt anyone's advice,hope  I don't come across that way. My thinking was that if I was going to do a stroker then I should bite the bullet and use a 440 block and go 500+ CI.
But  I love  the 383's power and relative fuel economy.
Does the 383/400 block have to have much work done for clearance when turning it into 489? Like notches and grinding for the extra stroke/rods?
How does the power come on in a 489?  Right there off idle? I was also thinking of idle to 5500 for the power range,thats why I was thinking Magnum cam.

 

512 cid on a 400 block, very little grinding to clear the rod bolts.

[1974dodgecharger]

your asking for ONLY 450 HP from a 383???  really???  That's it?  Its easy to get 450HP on a 383.......

I had a 383 motor with 505HP and would do 390+ HP to the RWHP and I had big pimp rims 20s back there was told I could have more HP if I went back to the 15inch magnums then it would throw down 400 to 420HP.

https://youtu.be/adApvKUbcUU

[c00nhunterjoe]

Big pimp rims. Lmao, thats great!

[Bad B-rad]

That's what I would like 450HP and looking dead balls stock doing it.

[73chgrSE]

 

[c00nhunterjoe]

  2 years, any updates? But he hasnt logged in since may of 18, so doubtful.