Setting toe

[J-440]

 I'm in the process of setting toe and it looks like the passenger side front tire is about an inch closer to the motor whereas the driver side tire is an inch further out.  I measured this by the old kite string trick running from the rear tires and using a set of jackstands and a tape measure.  Now I know these old cars weren't the best engineered and tolerances were say...questionable.  What I want to know is how my driving will be affected. 
  I'm also playing around with caster and camber and ya'll have been a big help.  Both upper a-arms are equal length adjusted via rod ends, and my eccentric cam bolts have the ball joint pushed away from the motor and back toward the door.  I'm still making adjustments until I can at least half-ass drive it straight to the alignment shop.  Just concerned with the toe. 
  Oh and the rear end has been centered awhile back.  My car was probably smacked a little bit back in the day though not that hard.  Thanks again.

[HPP]

Are both your tie rods equal in length? You need to make these match , center the wheels, then dial in the toe using small adjustment in BOTH  tie rods.

[J-440]

 Ok, the UCA threaded rod ends are the same thread count on both sides, the cam/eccentric bolts are adjusted equally on both sides, the LCA threaded rod ends are equal on both sides.  Now, since the spindle mounts in between both arms and then the wheels mount to the spindles, the only thing left is the rack and pinion which mounts to the lower part of the spindle.  How does adjusting the tie rods move the wheel in and out parallel to the body?   

[HPP]

Ahh, I forgot, you have a  Magnumforce  front end.

The principle still holds, the end links on the rack should adjust in/out to change toe settings. How...they pivot the spindle left/right between the two ball joints. Control arms can't do this as they simply locate the spindle. The tie rods are used to shorten or lengthen the overall rack width to change toe.

Now if the entire passenger side suspension is in an inch, then you have a track width difference, which means changing all the settings on the control arms to pull the driver's side in and/or push the passenger side out.

[J-440]

 Yeah that's what I thought.  Technically all wheels are straight, I just may have a little crab walk as I'm driving.  Although it's only an inch difference.  Maybe a 1" wheel spacer to make it all even?

[HPP]

You spent many thousands of dollars on a highly adjustable suspension system. I'd think it would best to take a lot of careful measurements and then some adjustments to put things where they need to be before simply bolting on a spacer. Heck, it could even be that your rear housing is over a portion of the difference as well.

[J-440]

 Yeah I hear ya. Just looking at all my options. Thanks again.