How long does a 440 stroker last?

[deputycrawford]

I have heard from my engine builder that 496 stroked 440's tend to have main cap walk problems and will crack the main webbing in the block. How much money is involved with getting, and machining, aluminum mains and a girgle worked into the block, and can you also use a windage tray with the setup? Also, how much does a new aftermarket block cost and are they that much better? Which is more cost effective, the girdled stock block, or the "Mega Block" I think it's called.

[MOPARHOUND!]

Depends on the level of horsepower you are making, and if you are using it to race, or just occasionally cruising around.

The 440 main saddles at #2, #3, and #4 main become prone to cracking in drag race engines at 650 hp.  You can gain some more durability above the 650 hp level using aluminum caps (becomes a maintenance item, just like aluminum rods), or some use the heavy duty billet steel caps.  Using studs is also advisable, and a girdle or cap straps would be considerations.  Are there engines out there making more than 650 hp in a factory block and surviving?  Yes, but it is just a matter of time, they are the exception, not the general rule.

In my opinion, I would skip past the cap upgrades, and go to a mega block or the like in race applications above 650 hp.  Below 650hp, I would stick with the factory 440 block.

[andyf]

A 9:1 pump gas 496 in a street car should last at least 50,000 miles if not way more if it is built properly.  Use good quality parts and properly machined parts and you should be fine for a long, long time.

A race motor might last a season or several seasons depending on power and rpm.

[deputycrawford]

Ok, would a mega block be needed for a 10ish to 1 aluminum Indy EZ headed engine ned anyting special?

[Mike DC]

I doubt you'd need any more than a stock block for that situation.  You're definitely at the higher end of what a stock block can safely take, but I don't think you're really gonna get near the limit if it's a street-driven car on pump gas without nitrous or huge RPMs.

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There's a perception in the old-car hobby that street motors = stock motors, and strokers = race motors.  It's only just begun to change in the last few years.

When you tell people "stroker motor," they often still assume you mean: "maxed-out 6800-rpm drag motor in a car with a transbrake & huge slicks that will spend as much time on the dragstrip as the street." 

Once you've said the word "stroker," then you almost need to go down the list of power-adders/stress factors and tell them everything that the motor ISN'T going to be subjected to.
 

[deputycrawford]

Ok, mike DC. I understand. My 383 69 will only do 13.2 to 13.3 at 101.5 MPH. That is way to slow for me. I would like a 496 on pump gas and no adders that can handle shift points of around 6500 rpms. Even with the cubes, I would like to still have to use a 4:10 gear and my 9 1/2 inch converter at around 3500 rpms. It should idle like the earth is coming off its axis and cause me to not see straight while idling at a street light. I would also run 2 inch primary headers and 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust with Dynomax Race Magnum mufflers. You know; nothing that will get the attention of the police  Just enought to get me to work.

[Mike DC]

 
Sounds like a monster of a motor!
Probably gonna be streetable, but on the edge. 

The RPM doesn't need to be a big deal as long as you get a great balancing job and make sure everything in the valvetrain is in tip-top condition.  With Mopar's shaft-mounted rockers a 6500 RPM redline is do-able.  The stock-type parts can generally go that high pretty reliably as long as the valvesprings are stiff enough to control the valves at speed, although I think the mid-6000s range is considered the limit.  If you wanna rev it any higher then it's definitely time to pay for some purpose-built stuff.  And even good expensive valvesprings probably won't live very long in this motor either.  Plan on wearing them out & replacing them from time to time. 

With a compression ratio that's within reason and no extra power adders, that's only about a medium-stress setup for the block.  I think the pump-gas/no nitrous decision is gonna save you the price of a Megablock on this buildup.

But it ain't gonna be too tame on the street, that's for sure!  Not with those gears & cam & converter.

 

[deputycrawford]

Thanks for the input. My 383 runs all that now. It is surprising streetable. My wife has driven it to her police department too. I just want to go fast. 13.30s is not fast enough for me. What's the old saying? Go big or go home?