60 amp Alternator enough?

[bigmogs]

I have 383 motor with vintage air ac, and painless wiring harness, new alternator from summit.
I live in Dubai where it's very hot, and just about to most likely get the Low amp pulling 2500cfm fans.
Does this sound like it will be ok? I've not chosen a battery as yet.
Thanks in advance!

[303 Mopar]

fans, ac, lights, radio all add up - no sense in getting a 60 amp when you can move up to 80 or 90 amp.  The alt will only push out what is needed so no harm done.

[bigmogs]

Sorry, so you think I'd need to change to an 80-90amp?
Thanks!

[timmycharger]

I am running dual electric fans and classic auto air system, along with an amplifier and electric fuel pump. I am running a 90 amp denso alternator from a mid 1990s dodge truck.

[Nacho-RT74]

the problem ( once again ) is not the max rate output they are normally spec'd... the problem how much load is able to give iddling.

60 amps is fairly enough on a car like our cars... but as far is able to give 45-50 iddling if required... which likely is... no. Maybe 38-40 being optimistic. Big fail from Chrysler engineering dept IMHO, what made to make big mistakes allong the years and lot of bulkhead burnt

if playing with a stock look alt, on the cheap line, get a earliers/mid 80s alt, 78-80 amps alt, which will be able to give around 45-50 iddling with small pulley.

if your car is still mech reg, will need to ground one of the alt brushes. or you can upgrade to elect regulator.


but also IMHO with elect fans, would go for more... maybe up to 100 amps... TAKE A LOOK ON MY STICKYED THREAD about wiring upgrade with high output alts ( no need to remove/modify ammeter making everything right, like everybody will suggest )

[303 Mopar]

Sorry, so you think I'd need to change to an 80-90amp?
Thanks!

Yes.  Here is a good article on picking the right alt.  http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/03/27/alt-text-5-things-you-should-know-before-using-a-high-output-alternator/##cid#

[Dino]

Nacho is right, everything will likely work fine when you're cruising, but once you let go of the throttle things change. I remember I had to turn off my windshield wipers everytime I came to a stop because they couldn't keep up. Lights dimmed as well. Ridiculous. a 90 amp Denso and some wiring mods later and problem solved! Lights on, a/c on, radio on, wipers on and everything is working just fine!   

[bigmogs]

Thank you all, any idea of the part number for the Denso that you use?
Guys, much appreciated.

[Dino]

I think mine was off a Toyota but it required fabricating brackets. You should be able to buy an alternator with brackets that are a direct bolt on. Check Mancini. I'd also go with something bigger in case you end up adding a bunch of stuff like a 120 amp alternator. The 90 amp kinda fell in my lap and does the job for my needs.

[Nacho-RT74]

I live in tropic, where when is not raining there is heat, so in both circunstances I need the A/C working, plus the wipers when raining... plus personal safety due the armed criminals around, making keep the windows up most of the time.

we have also in Caracas a HEAVY TRAFFIC situations, so lot of stop and go, brakes pressed... even worst at night with lights on.

My car is/was a driver... will be still a driver when leaves the body shop.

I can testify the needs for our cars on amperage. The worst of all is the A/C blower, then the wipers... the rest is easy to drive. Hazzards are the next but you normally won't use it.

If you have electric fans, that could be the most sucker device on your car, then the stock parts. So IMHO you need definitelly not less than 55-60 amps iddling if you want to keep safe your wiring, charging circuit and batt lifetime.

with all of that SOMETIMES I feel my 78-80 amps alt is not enough, but thats why I just want to keep the stock look. Actually the alt I have on my car came out of the box saying is a 100 amps unit from Chrysler ( seriously doubt it, but is what box says ).

Someday will point out to a Tuff stuff alt, fully stock look units but better inner, which supposelly are rated to 100 amps, what SHOOULD BE giving 60 amps at iddling THAT IS enough, for a fully equipped car. Not cheap though.

then consider the wiring upgrade AT LEAST between alt post and amm post, out of bulkhead ( you can keep the existant one at bulhead if still in good conditions )... check the thread I made. That's if you decide to keep your ammeter in line,what I would do, and there is not a problem if everything is correctly done.

If you don't care about stockish look, Niponndenso are good rated units. Mancini sells one supposelly plug and play, ready for the stock system ( ext electronic reg ) and brackets. I think actually those are the same modern Mopars use, so I don't think you'll need to get it from Mancini, but from any parts shop. Can't recall the PN.

[pettybird]

A truly modern alternator is a huge step over what was available when the cars were new.  I'd go with something like this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-8-48529/overview/year/1970/make/dodge/model/charger


When you put in a powerful alternator you MUST upgrade the output wire that leads back to the battery...otherwise you can burn the car to the ground with an overheated wire.

[plumsun3]

I recently installed a larger PowerMaster 90 amp in my '71 running the same accessories. Unit was bad and now I'm having issue getting refund. It burned my blue field wire, installation was just as original 60 amp. I'm going the route of a 75amp from QualityPower knowing that it will be close to demand. Sales/owner was much more knowledgable than people at YearOne and I haven't had a return call from PowerMaster. Depending on your wiring of additions, either the batt. lead needs to be larger to and from gauge or feed alternator directly to battery to charge it. New Vintage a/c is very little draw, less than half of original components, my fans run about 25 amps and the additions are wired directly to battery. I had dash on my '71 Charger apart once adding the a/c and factory tach, not something easy to put back.

[Nacho-RT74]

Accessories on Cars with amperimeters MUST NOT TO BE FEEDED FROM BATT. GIANT MISTAKE!

[c00nhunterjoe]

Why spend 300 bucks on a powermaster with no warrenty? Unless you are set on getting a denso, the gm cs models are what the majority of the powermasters are based. Go to any local parts house and get an altrrnator for any gm v8 truck from 1989 through 2000. They are 105 amp jobs with a lifetime warranty for under a hundred bucks. If you need a 180 offset mounting ears, get it for a 1990 corvette or the 91-95 caprice. I got mine for a 94 caprice, its a 118 amp, brand new not reman for 91.00 with a lifetime warranty.  A reman was 65 i beleive. Oh, and the pigtail is 4.95. Simple to hook up, internaly regulator.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Why spend 300 bucks on a powermaster with no warrenty? Unless you are set on getting a denso, the gm cs models are what the majority of the powermasters are based. Go to any local parts house and get an altrrnator for any gm v8 truck from 1989 through 2000. They are 105 amp jobs with a lifetime warranty for under a hundred bucks. If you need a 180 offset mounting ears, get it for a 1990 corvette or the 91-95 caprice. I got mine for a 94 caprice, its a 118 amp, brand new not reman for 91.00 with a lifetime warranty.  A reman was 65 i beleive. Oh, and the pigtail is 4.95. Simple to hook up, internaly regulated, i will have to double check the output scale but im pretty sure it was 55 amps at idle, 70 at 2000

[303 Mopar]

I recently installed a larger PowerMaster 90 amp in my '71 running the same accessories. Unit was bad and now I'm having issue getting refund.

Avoid PowerMasters, plenty of others to select from.  I went with this one when I swapped in my 505.  I have a amp, aftermarket stereo, and fuel pump.  I will someday upgrade to EFI and did not want to ever worry about the having enough power from the alternator.