amazing rare find 70 Cuda V code two tags all there but a little rough

[green69rt]

At a bid of over $25000, it's hard to believe someone is buying this for a parts car.

[charger_fan_4ever]

Need to see the underneath of it to see if its worth restoring or not. If the rails and torsion bar mount are toast then the car should be too. Can see it was like my 70 door hinge pillars even rotten. But mine the rails still had original paint on them.

[Charger_Fan]

Seeing at how rotten that poor car is, I assume the barn has a dirt floor. Probably a leaky roof, too.

[68pplcharger]

Other than the floors the car doesn't look to bad. If you can do metal fab yourself the car would be easy to get into shape on the outside. probably have a couple thousand in sheet metal on the inside. I could see doing this In my garage and have less in it than my charger, that was in worse shape this this car. I just paid less for the charger but way more for the custom crap. I could restore it for about 25 done right. Problem would be getting the car for 30 or under. Is the car matching numbers drive train? If not I could see only getting 60-70 out of it. One owner matching numbers I would argue this car would go for much more. 

[GOTWING]

NO WAY would this be a parts car , it's a six barrel 70 Cuda with two tags it's going to get a high end resto I bet you.

[70 sublime]

Just think of what the pictures look like but has anyone noticed there are no pictures from the underside ??
Yes they show the ground from the top side in a couple but where are the frame pictures ?
Because there is none left to see

[birdsandbees]

If the floor is gone that bad the torsion bar x member and rails are toast both front and back! Hell my floor wasn't even CLOSE to being that far gone and we still put in rear rails, pans, etc. 12K Cdn in AMD metal + 7 weeks of labour.

Like I said, if you can do it yourself.. more power to you. If not it's just another Mopar money pit.. that we all seem to love (if someone else is spending the money)! LOL 

[DAY CLONA]

NO WAY would this be a parts car , it's a six barrel 70 Cuda with two tags it's going to get a high end resto I bet you.

As much as you'd like to think that, today a rebody is just so much more economical in the long run, think about it, with a rust free donor for a rebody you get that all important "factory sheetmetal", "factory welds", and assembly line "originality", this car even if NOS, used "original" donor parts are used, it needs so much, it is in essence becomes a "rebody" by proxy, a clean donor provides that "factory" fit, finish and originality that every restorer strives for....

[hemi-hampton]

Why didn't they just rebody Ted Stephens Daytona that was a total basketcase parts car. Would of been so much easier

[paironines]

Because rebodys are worth less when completed.  So there goes the restoration savings.

[hemi-hampton]

I'm sure there are lots of rebody's out there that nobody knows about. In that case they pass it off as original. A high profile well known car like Teds would be impossible to keep a rebody secret & under wraps. LEON.

[DAY CLONA]

Why didn't they just rebody Ted Stephens Daytona that was a total basketcase parts car. Would of been so much easier

For what was replaced on that car, IT IS a REBODY...


How much do you really think there is of the "real" car left, here's a clue https://youtu.be/EoHoTDxva0A

[moparnation74]

NO WAY would this be a parts car , it's a six barrel 70 Cuda with two tags it's going to get a high end resto I bet you.

As much as you'd like to think that, today a rebody is just so much more economical in the long run, think about it, with a rust free donor for a rebody you get that all important "factory sheetmetal", "factory welds", and assembly line "originality", this car even if NOS, used "original" donor parts are used, it needs so much, it is in essence becomes a "rebody" by proxy, a clean donor provides that "factory" fit, finish and originality that every restorer strives for....

Exactly....This is the part that most people do not understand.  Sure there is "new" repro metal available but it is not the same in look, fit, and finish.  You lose a lot of the factory details done to those cars in those eras.

Sure someone with the metal skills could build this car in their garage and save a fair amount of $$$$.  However, when you sell it in the future the buyers of these type of cars are looking for absolute correctness when you are achieving that price point to match.  So you did a good job on metal/rust repair, who cares.  Did you recreate factory welds, body stampings, the dippping layers, drips runs fisheyes overyspary, seam sealers done correctly, multiple plating finishes on all parts that need it, all the different sheens textures finishes of parts, NOS parts, all pitted parts replaced with original NOS/non pitted, date code part code correct, NOS seals.......list goes on

So if your able to do that in your garage what was noted above and still make a profit on this car.  Please educate us?

So when you step into the world of "Correctness" and seeking top dollar.  You need to understand the true definition of correctness....It is NOT a beautiful paint job with a bunch of crappy repro parts...

Heck, I know where an NOS gas tank and sending unit is for this type of resto(date code is 70 but may not be the right month) and the asking price is $3500.  There is not any aftermarket gas tank/SU available that is correct as the originals...Small piece of the puzzle......

Day Clona makes a great point about a donor body in this case......

[Charger_Fan]

Other than the floors the car doesn't look to bad.

I dunno...look at the hinge post area. I assume both sides are as bad, and it makes me wonder how rotten the cowl area is.

[68pplcharger]

Yeah that a horse of a different color for sure ... lol

If that was a barn find the barn was missing the roof. looks like a field car and I take back my previous post... lol
Car could be redone but never to resell and make money for sure. I've got a buick in my garage with floor and trunk like that, but the rockers and above are fine. Frame is also solid, the damage was from trunk and window leaks. That car was in the field for decades to look that bad

[DAY CLONA]

Other than the floors the car doesn't look to bad.

I dunno...look at the hinge post area. I assume both sides are as bad, and it makes me wonder how rotten the cowl area is.

Trust me, I've owned E bodies for about 4 decades now, parted out several hundred over the last few decades, that car is a "PARTS CAR", great candidate to save, but a rebody is the only sane route to take with this one...I can guarantee you it needs at a minimum, a complete cowl top, lower, inner, and sides, entire floor, front rails, side firewalls, maybe a torsion bar member, rear qtrs, trunk floor, trunk extensions dutchman panel, possibly wheel wells, and maybe a rear rail or 2, along with some inner/outer rockers, no telling what shape the doors are in?, along with a few other assorted body braces/brackets, by the time you strip this carcess down and remove all the rusted components, your probably left with a roof, roof inner frame, rear qtr inner structures, and maybe a set of rear rails if your lucky, the front fenders are junk IMHO, the rear valance is junk as well, the rear trunk lid is blown out, the Shaker hood looks salvageable, I'm sure the rockers are blown out as well, by the time you source just the sheetmetal/structural members, repro will run you about $5K, if you don't have the skill/equipment to do ALL the work required to rebuild this rust relic, you'll be farming it out to about the tune of $10K in labor, add in the parts, your at $15K+ and you don't even have it in primer at this cost stage, so IMHO $15K buys you a nice southern/western rustfree BH/BP/BS roller that could also yield you more parts that your going to need to "restore" this car  

[paironines]

I hear your points and dont want to argue but not too many people would touch a rebody and if they did the price would be so low that there would be no money left in the car after rebodying anyway.

[DAY CLONA]

I hear your points and dont want to argue but not too many people would touch a rebody and if they did the price would be so low that there would be no money left in the car after rebodying anyway.

Rebodying a vehicle isn't ALWAYS about resale...

[hemi-hampton]

Other than the floors the car doesn't look to bad.

I dunno...look at the hinge post area. I assume both sides are as bad, and it makes me wonder how rotten the cowl area is.

Trust me, I've owned E bodies for about 4 decades now, parted out several hundred over the last few decades, that car is a "PARTS CAR", great candidate to save, but a rebody is the only sane route to take with this one...I can guarantee you it needs at a minimum, a complete cowl top, lower, inner, and sides, entire floor, front rails, side firewalls, maybe a torsion bar member, rear qtrs, trunk floor, trunk extensions dutchman panel, possibly wheel wells, and maybe a rear rail or 2, along with some inner/outer rockers, no telling what shape the doors are in?, along with a few other assorted body braces/brackets, by the time you strip this carcess down and remove all the rusted components, your probably left with a roof, roof inner frame, rear qtr inner structures, and maybe a set of rear rails if your lucky, the front fenders are junk IMHO, the rear valance is junk as well, the rear trunk lid is blown out, the Shaker hood looks salvageable, I'm sure the rockers are blown out as well, by the time you source just the sheetmetal/structural members, repro will run you about $5K, if you don't have the skill/equipment to do ALL the work required to rebuild this rust relic, you'll be farming it out to about the tune of $10K in labor, add in the parts, your at $15K+ and you don't even have it in primer at this cost stage, so IMHO $15K buys you a nice southern/western rustfree BH/BP/BS roller that could also yield you more parts that your going to need to "restore" this car  

Are you saying if you farmed this out you could have all the rust replaced & be a solid rustfree car minus primer for $15k?

[GOTWING]

Maybe it will be like the Daytona that sold at recent auction, you know the stupid "barn find" carport one with the flames and the seller lost his ass, maybe the new owner of this Cuda will leave it as it is, you must admit at Carlisle this would get more attention then the restored ones.

[DAY CLONA]

Other than the floors the car doesn't look to bad.

I dunno...look at the hinge post area. I assume both sides are as bad, and it makes me wonder how rotten the cowl area is.

Trust me, I've owned E bodies for about 4 decades now, parted out several hundred over the last few decades, that car is a "PARTS CAR", great candidate to save, but a rebody is the only sane route to take with this one...I can guarantee you it needs at a minimum, a complete cowl top, lower, inner, and sides, entire floor, front rails, side firewalls, maybe a torsion bar member, rear qtrs, trunk floor, trunk extensions dutchman panel, possibly wheel wells, and maybe a rear rail or 2, along with some inner/outer rockers, no telling what shape the doors are in?, along with a few other assorted body braces/brackets, by the time you strip this carcess down and remove all the rusted components, your probably left with a roof, roof inner frame, rear qtr inner structures, and maybe a set of rear rails if your lucky, the front fenders are junk IMHO, the rear valance is junk as well, the rear trunk lid is blown out, the Shaker hood looks salvageable, I'm sure the rockers are blown out as well, by the time you source just the sheetmetal/structural members, repro will run you about $5K, if you don't have the skill/equipment to do ALL the work required to rebuild this rust relic, you'll be farming it out to about the tune of $10K in labor, add in the parts, your at $15K+ and you don't even have it in primer at this cost stage, so IMHO $15K buys you a nice southern/western rustfree BH/BP/BS roller that could also yield you more parts that your going to need to "restore" this car  

Are you saying if you farmed this out you could have all the rust replaced & be a solid rustfree car minus primer for $15k?

Prices will vary depending on what part of the country your in, the shop used, and the level of finish you want, but to get this heap in just rolling fashion, rust free, I'm talking just the unibody, no doors/fenders/hood or other body panels hung, just the welded unibody...

Most "restoration" shops here in the east avg $75 hr, I'd estimate 100-150 hrs to reconstruct the welded unibody, if it's delivered as a stripped shell

[odcics2]

I assume this car would have more value than a clone?   

Therein is the answer why it will be "restored"...   

[hemi-hampton]

Most shops around here (detroit) don't even charge hourly & most customers refuse to pay hourly. LEON.

[moparnation74]

Most shops around here (detroit) don't even charge hourly & most customers refuse to pay hourly. LEON.

Depends on the shop of choice and the select customer base......

85/hr here in Texas......

There is probably 15-20k in bodywork alone on that cuda to get done at a high quality restoration shop........It will be a swiss cheese nightmare once it is all stripped....

[hemi-hampton]

In my opinion, the body work on a rust bucket like this is the most time consuming labor extensive & expensive part of the Restoration. And it will cost you much more then $15 or $20k to do the body work right in my opinion.    LEON.