Superbird headlight buckets

[Hemi Runner]

I just thought I'd show you guys my fabricated headlight buckets. They aren't stock appearing but should work well. I will be adding bronze bushings and the pivot adjustment plates once I get my rivnut kit. These are a bunch of work but I've only got about $20 of real money in them.

[Hemi Runner]

[Hemi Runner]

[Hemi Runner]

[Hemi Runner]

I'll be using 12volt linear actuators mounted directly to the outside corners of the buckets to flip the lights up.

[oldcarnut]

 

[Hemi Runner]

I definitely need some adjustments but I got real close to center on the first shot.

[Hemi Runner]

[Hemi Runner]

Any fibergass gurus on here? The curve on this one door seems to be in the wrong direction. Do I build up the bottom side and the grind the top side center to get it right? I don't have much fiberglass experience. 

[DAY CLONA]

Any fibergass gurus on here? The curve on this one door seems to be in the wrong direction. Do I build up the bottom side and the grind the top side center to get it right? I don't have much fiberglass experience.  

Mike, while I could supply you with another door, it will be of the same profile, as I've been using the same headlight door molds for decades and dozens of customers and dozens of cars, keep in mind, most original wingcar parts are not identical in shape side to side, Daytona or Superbird...first, I wouldn't attempt to add fiberglass to the underside and attempt to re-contour the top, you'll have issues re-installing the metal pivot frame, and the fiberglass will eventually fail in some way, shape or form

2 suggestions...first the door appears to be mounted very high, and is there's the possibility the nose contour is too curved in the upper skin? you could effect a change to the skin contour by using a shrinker/stretcher on the rear upper headlite bucket flange on the nose cone...

or, I could offer you another fiberglass door, custom made, based on a drawn template of the rear flange of your nose cone...

let me know what you'd prefer to do?


Mike

[Hemi Runner]

Hey Mike,
I've got a set of shrinker/stretchers so I might try the stretcher to see if that brings the metal up a little. It is mounted too high and that makes the mismatch worse than it is. I'll get the alignment right and maybe just add some filler to the outsides of the door to make it all look nice. I can make it work, just needed some suggestions.

[DAY CLONA]

Hey Mike,
I've got a set of shrinker/stretchers so I might try the stretcher to see if that brings the metal up a little. It is mounted too high and that makes the mismatch worse than it is. I'll get the alignment right and maybe just add some filler to the outsides of the door to make it all look nice. I can make it work, just needed some suggestions.

Give it a try, if it becomes an issue, I can offer a "custom" made door based on a template supplied, wingcar parts, original or repro offer a challenge during assembly, esp headlight assys, I also find that it helps to have the lower spoiler mounted on the cone when setting up headlight pivots/doors/buckets and trying to achieve some uniformity in gaps and surface matching between the skin and door tops, and/or effecting changes to the cones skin, you wouldn't believe how some cone top surfaces distort, or door gaps change when the lower spoiler is bolted into place


Mike

[Hemi Runner]

That wouldn't surprise me one bit. I don't think most people realize how much stuff moves and how much variation was in the old parts. I've got a passenger side door and fender that want to occupy the same space leaving no gap. Both are original but from different cars and neither were on this body!!

[wingcarenvy]

Very nice!

Where did you find the linear actuators?

[Hemi Runner]

I got them off ebay. They are 2" stroke units.

[Hemi Runner]

[Hemi Runner]

Added rivnuts so I don't have to deal with nuts and washers.

[XS29L9B2]

very nice

[wingcarenvy]

That is killer. 

[Hemi Runner]

Thanks. Anyone have any pictures showing where the factory drains are located? I still need to add those.

[DAY CLONA]

Thanks. Anyone have any pictures showing where the factory drains are located? I still need to add those.

Mike, only 1 drain hole in each light bucket, approx 1/2" (.500) diameter, pretty much centered on this rectangular flat bottom section of the bucket, location marked with red dot

Mike

[DAY CLONA]

There's also a "U" shape hole (marked in red) cut in the top bucket edge for a split grommet to slide into, this is where the wiring harness and vacuum lines go to enter the backside of the pivot frame, I know your using linear activators, but you'll still need to address the electrical supply, unless you have an alternate plan/path for the wiring?

Mike

[Redbird]

Really nice work!

Mike's suggestions are timely and excellent too.

[Hemi Runner]

Really nice work!

Mike's suggestions are timely and excellent too.

Mike's parts and consulting have been a HUGE help on this project! Thanks Mike!

[Hemi Runner]

Got the other side done today.

[Hemi Runner]

[Hemi Runner]

Thanks. Anyone have any pictures showing where the factory drains are located? I still need to add those.

Mike, only 1 drain hole in each light bucket, approx 1/2" (.500) diameter, pretty much centered on this rectangular flat bottom section of the bucket, location marked with red dot

Mike

Does it just drain into the lower valance and then out or is there a hose that carries it somewhere?

[Hemi Runner]

There's also a "U" shape hole (marked in red) cut in the top bucket edge for a split grommet to slide into, this is where the wiring harness and vacuum lines go to enter the backside of the pivot frame, I know your using linear activators, but you'll still need to address the electrical supply, unless you have an alternate plan/path for the wiring?

Mike

I'm not sure yet. I was originally going to mount the actuators on the outside of each box and use a lever on the shaft to work the headlight and run the headlight wires through the same sides. Now, I don't think I want it putting all the force on one side of the pivots so I make go through the back where the original vacuum units go. If so, I'll route the wires through there.

[A383Wing]

no hose, just drains into the lower valance

[DAY CLONA]

I'm not sure yet. I was originally going to mount the actuators on the outside of each box and use a lever on the shaft to work the headlight and run the headlight wires through the same sides. Now, I don't think I want it putting all the force on one side of the pivots so I make go through the back where the original vacuum units go. If so, I'll route the wires through there.
[/quote]


Mike, I've mounted electric motors (Firebird/Fiero) and fabricated bellcranks along with heim ends to work with the stock pivots/arms/shafts, using just one side of the pivots on quite a few builds, I use the Firebird/Fiero motors because they are readily available at parts stores, and they have a built in mechanical/electrical "limiter" that shuts the motor off, then rearms it for reversing it's position on the next command when the motor's arm hits it stop, I generally fab a plate that holds the motor to the side of the bucket , maufacturer an arm for the motor, an arm for the headlight pivot frame shaft, and 2 heim joints, and a section of threaded rod that I can adjust/fine tune the distance between the motor arm and the piviot shaft/bellcrank, the Firebird/Fiero motor will spin all day in one or the other direction until a positive stop makes the motor engage it's mechanical/electrical set and reversal reset...A problem I encountered using stock Chrysler headlight motors, or power window motors, or linener acuators was that if they did not reach their electrical internal stops, to position themselves for reversal, they would still remain in electrical load and burn out, one of the reasons I went to the Firebird/Fiero motors on some headlight builds, but I still went thru the grommet/"U" shaped hole in the upper bucket for the headlight wiring, as it's the only practical location for the bulk of wires to travel in unison with the headlight door's activation/travel

I employed the Firebird/Fiero set up on Mike Musto's Angrier Daytona when I was outfitting it with an Aero package, to date he's informed me of only 1 headlight motor failure in approx 8-9 years of use, and that car gets around, and he's put in plenty of seat time around the country, other customer's whom I've employed this set up with have had no issues either

I wish I had some photos of the motor/bucket construction, but I lost those on another computer that had a "meltdown"

Mike

[Hemi Runner]

Interesting option. I can figure out the fab work and linkage, no problem, and could probably use one motor for both doors. I looked them up and they do look robust but maybe a tad heavy. I'll save that option in case the linear units don't work out.

[Hemi Runner]

Here's my original thought behind headlight operation.

[Hemi Runner]

Milled up nifty pivot plates thanks to Dayclona's info.

Made them oversize for more adjustment.

Outboard plate. Note bronze bushing captured in there.

[Hemi Runner]

Got the actuator on with an adjustable length lever.

[Hemi Runner]

http://s701.photobucket.com/user/CRE2004/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-12/1240225F-6ED6-4F42-9F0B-44B6983206D7_zpshj95zhmm.mp4.html