Manual Vavle Body,and other 727 part, hey Neil?

[cudaken]

 Well Neil, $12.00 a minute on the phone is well worth your help, but getting  cheap again. Mini worked out just fine as well.

Next big step is the 727. I asked the question I guess 2 years ago and with the old site gone, here I go again.

Best manual vavle body and rest of the 727 will be stock for now. High bidder on a Cheata Reverse Vavle body on E-Stupid. I would rather have a normal shift pattern, but none where listed.

After I get to drive the beast, what next?

Hemi cluch can and steel rear spag (what the heck that is but I know I need one)!

Flex plate is all so a worry and converter as well.

Have a 400 Police converter with counter weght knocked off, yeal's around 2400 stall which seem's ideal for what I have. Bought a SEMA flex plate and bolt pattern was to small.

                   Cuda Ken

[Crazy440]

I had John Cope build my 727, with a forward manual valve body.
Mancini has them.   Here's a link

http://store.yahoo.com/chucker54/turboaction3.html

[Chryco Psycho]

the 727 is far better shifted reverse pattern & cheetah is good stuff
you need a SFI or B&M flexplate
not sure exactly what to do internally fo rthe best results , really I am more of a 4 speed guy 

[Crazy440]

the 727 is far better shifted reverse pattern

Why?

[Jon Smith]

If you're buying a manual valve body its best to get a newer one with the low band apply feature, otherwise burnouts in 1st could cause the sprag to fail and the trans could explode
if you dont have low band apply then do your burnouts in 2nd or 3rd

[firefighter3931]

Turbo action now makes a forward pattern fully manual valve body with the low band apply feature....they call it the "prostreet" valvebody. You should also have a bolt in sprague installed while the tranny is being rebuilt. You need an sfi flex plate and a better converter than you've got. The blower engine makes so much TQ it will drive right through that converter. The stator for a blower/nitrous application is heavy duty.

Ron

[RD]

your front band and reverse band servos should be replaced with billet servos, you can find them at a&a trans, copes, or a guy on moparts.com ads sells them.  You can get a fully rollerized rear drum and rear output shaft support for, i think, 200 bux.  a billet steel front drum or aluminum drum would be nice also, but that is getting into big money. i totally agree with ron on the bolt in sprag.  You should have a hole drilled into your case that will feed more fluid to your rear sprag, if you need advice let me know. Dependent upon the year of your case, you may want to relocate your pump's vent.  70 and earlier requires it, IMO, 71 and later its up to you.

John K knows alot of places where you can get cheap but reliable parts.  I will list the websites that i know of that have parts or will help you with your build:

http://471jim.moparpages.com/id11.html

http://www.aandatrans.com/

http://www.altousa.com/

http://www.bulkpart.com/

http://www.coperacingtrans.com/

http://www.jvxracing.com/files/jvxcatalog.pdf

hope this helps!

[cudaken]

 Qust is on hold again, detail's latter if need be.

Looking for a new job.


                     ken