Torsion bar removal

[Raindem]

Having a hard time getting these out on my '73.  I have the removal tool from Mancini Racing.  I jacked up the front end and loosened the bolt under the lower control.  I removed the retaining clip from the back end.  I've been banging on it for several days now and it won't budge.  Soaked it in liquid wrench.  Heated it with mapp gas.  No luck.

I saw a video where someone just cut it in half while on the vehicle and removed it in 2 pieces.  Is there anything else I can try before resorting to such a drastic measure?

Thanks

Curt

[John_Kunkel]

One method often mentioned is to remove the strut rod and the nut on the front of the lower control arm pivot pin and then pry the whole control arm rearward.

[Raindem]

Is this the piece that goes through the K-member and bolts in front?

[moparnation74]

May not work but worth a shot...Have you tried the old candle trick?  Take a candle and mapp gas and melt the candle to seep into the joint.

Also, have you given it some thumps forward?

[Raindem]

Yes, I've tried wax, liquid wrench, and WD40 into the rear and front sockets after heating it with map gas.  And I've been thumping on it for several days now.  I'm amazed that I haven't busted the welds on the removal tool yet.

I'm wondering now if my suspension is fully unloaded.  Even though I backed off the adjusting bolt all the way I can't move the adjusting lever with a pry bar.  And when I lift the front off the ground or put it back down there is no movement in the control arms.  The engine and tranny are out which may explain the lack of articulation.  But I can't shake the feeling that there is still tension on the bar.

[BLK 68 R/T]

Try looesening the upper shock nut and see if the control arm drops down some more.

[Kern Dog]

The suspension changed a bit for 73, but if there are UPPER control arm bumpers, remove them to allow the whole suspension to drop further.

[Raindem]

I tried loosening the upper shock nut.  Nothing moves or changes position.

The upper control arm is down tight against the steering knuckle (I think that's what it's calld.  Not sure).  What's left of the upper bumper stop is smashed in between them.  I can't move the UCA at all, even with a pry bar.

[BLK 68 R/T]

Well, it sounds like what you have already described, it is still loaded with spring tension. I would break the lower ball joint loose from the spindle and loosen the strut rod. Doing both of those should release any tension on the torsion bar and it should come out.

[Raindem]

If I seperate the lower ball joint, am I going to have a hard time getting this all back together (since the engine is out and there's no counterweight to putting tension back on the bar)?

[Kern Dog]

What ?

Just for my curiosity....Why are you removing them? Are you swapping in bigger ones? Smaller ones? If you don't care to save them, take a grinder with a cutoff wheel to them and be done with it. I doubt there is much demand for used stock torsion bars. Every car built today has a stiffer spring rate than our cars did. I run 1.15s in my 70 Charger and the car rides about as firm as my Wifes 2015 Challenger R/T.

The removal procedure isn't difficult unless you are doing it wrong. Maybe you are missing something. To REcap:

* Place vehicle on jackstands or on a car lift.
* Remove front tires.
* Remove any retaining clips at rear of Torsion bar.
* SOAK the front end of the torsion bar (Hex in the LCA) with WD40 or similar Penetrant/Lubricant.
* Turn the adjuster screw/bolt COUNTERclockwise to loosen. Remove completely if desired.
* Attach torsion bar removal tool to torsion bar in a position where you have space to whack it with a hammer. Push tool rearward while whacking with the hammer.  Twist tool while hitting with hammer. Remove bar, slay dragons, pillage the village and ravish the women..
*************************************************************************************************************************************
If the above steps fail to remove the torsion bar, consider the following:

* Remove lower control arm, pry against K member to move LCA rearward while tapping on the Torsion bar with a hammer.
* Cut the torsion bar with a cutoff wheel. A sawzall will not work. The blade will dance around and get dull.

[Raindem]

I'm doing a complete restoration and this is the stage of disassembly that I'm at.  I was planning to reuse them if I didn't mangle them too much getting them out.

I've followed all the steps you outlined.  Either the rods are rusted into the sockets after 10 years of not being driven, or the suspension is not completely unloaded.  Tomorrow I'll seperate the lower ball joints and find out.

FYI - don't know if this is a factor but the adjusting bolts do not come out.  The will back out all the way but then get very hard to turn near the end of the threads.  I didn't want to force it for fear of breaking or stripping them.

[Kern Dog]

Okay... now we are getting somewhere.
The adjustment bolts had to be threaded into the adjuster somehow. The ends probably just have some crud on the threads or who knows what. WD 40 or equivalent, tighten, loosen, tighten....eventually you will work past the dirty/cruddy part and they should come out.
I still think that removal of the UPPER control arm bumpers would help but my experience is with 64-76 A body, 66-72 B body and a few Challengers. The 1973 and later B front suspensions are a little different. I cannot recall the specific differences.

[Bronzedodge]

I'll second what Kern said, I've had that experience with the upper bushings as well on several cars.  Try some Kroil for penetrating fluid.  Usually in an orange can.

[Raindem]

I'm sure the removal of the UCA bumpers would help.  Unfortunately it's too late for that now.  What's left of the bumpers is mashed between the UCAs and steering knuckle.  Using a pry bar, I can't even get the UCA to budge.

Here's my plan of attack for today:

1. Remove the adjuster bolt completely to ensure that the adjusting lever is completely relaxed.
2. Loosen the strut and seperate lower ball joint.
3. Loosen the LCA pivot nut and try to pry the LCA backwards
4. Remove the torsion bar crossmember and try to remove it from the back of the rods.

If none of those steps work I may just wind up removing both TBs, both LCAs,and the TB crossmember as a group, and mess with it on the bench.,

[Dino]

One method often mentioned is to remove the strut rod and the nut on the front of the lower control arm pivot pin and then pry the whole control arm rearward.

That's the way to go, don't make it any harder. The parts need to come off anyway so just remove the whole thing as a unit and you'll be good to go.   

[Raindem]

Success!  It turned out to be the adjusting bolt.  I thought it was all the way out but it wasn't.  By soaking it in oil and working it back and forth little by little with an impact wrench, I was able to get a few more turns out of it.  Apparently that was enough to remove the last bit of tension on bar.  It came out with a couple good whacks on the tool.  Ditto for the other side.

In retrospect it probably would have been easier to remove the LCA as suggested.  But at least now I know how to do it for future reference.

[Dino]

Good news!   

[Kern Dog]

Just ONE of the many services that I offer free of charge.