News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Which 440 should I invest in?

Started by MXZ69, November 20, 2016, 09:31:06 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

MXZ69

Hello All! First time posting! Long story short ...I made a good deal to buy a junkyard 69' Charger from a shop and have them restore it. The car comes with a late 70's RV 440 in it (Left in from previouse owner) and a 727. The motor will be built "to run" and have no performance upgrades do to my overall budget in the restoration. I came across 1970 "F" code 440 #2536430 for the price of buying a aftermarket forge crank for my current 440. My question for you guys is, what motor would be a better investment? Should I rebuild the Late 70's 440 that I already have or should I invest in this new block?

I read that the later 440's have Cast internals, low compression, and may not have pilot whole for a 4 speed (which I plan on doing in the future)

all opinions welcome, Thanks.


BSB67

Will you be boring and honing for new pistons?  This is generally accepted as needed but has an impact on your budget and the outcome.

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

Laowho


Guess you've already seen this?

http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm

Why the need for a forged crank?

Ours is a relatively mild build of a 76 block but with 906 heads from 69 for compression and which wouldn't put you out a lotta $$

MXZ69

- Will you be boring and honing for new pistons?  This is generally accepted as needed but has an impact on your budget and the outcome.

Yeah, I plan on putting in new pistons. I was looking at SRP flat top piston https://www.summitracing.com/parts/srp-213455-8
and the edelbrock Performer RPM 84cc heads. I'm shooting for 10.1 compression. I kinda have a build in mind, but not really doing anything until I get my car. I just came across this other motor for a steal and thought it would be a better choice in the long run, even if it means spending a little extra $.

- Why the need for a forged crank?

Ours is a relatively mild build of a 76 block but with 906 heads from 69 for compression and which wouldn't put you out a lotta $$

My plan is to have a high performance street car that will see some track. I just figured a forged crank would be the way to go since I'll be abusing it. My goal is 475hp & 500tq. Will a cast be good for this kind of power?

I would like to add that this is my first mopar and all this engine build stuff is all new to me. A big thanks to this site for all the info.

c00nhunterjoe

I would buy no parts until the block has been tanked, mic'd and inspected. How will you order the pistons without knowing how much the block needs bored or if the crank and rods are any good. Depending on the machine shop's notes, you may be cheaper to buy a new rotating assembly.

MXZ69


BSB67

A block is a block.  If they are both std bore, pick whichever one you want and have it checked for cracks.  You can use either rotating assy, but everything else being equal, take the one that has a forged crank, lighter rods and is internally balanced.  A light weight aftermarket forged flat top piston at zero deck is a good choice with the 84 cc aluminum heads.

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph