Advice Order of Supension/Steering upgrades

[XH29N0G]

Is there a thread listing an order for making incremental suspension upgrades? 

I saw a few lists in the Chassis, Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, & Tires section and also this one http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=117716.0

From these have come up with a partial list that I am trying to prioritize.

1) I have had the alignment done to mustang 2005 specs. 
2) I am thinking the next step will be to swap in Bilstein shocks. 
3) After that I am thinking firmfeel box. 
4 - )After that, I am trying to sort out the order of torque boxes & frame rails, sway bar, and torsion bars, Front vs rear.  (My thinking was torque box  and frame rails first, then front sway bar, then torsion bars, and then rear torsion bar) 

There could be more, but I'll stop there.


Does this order make sense?  Or would you recommend a different order of swaps? 

I am looking for the things that make the biggest difference first and work with what is on the car now.


The stock suspension I have is the police suspension with Hemi springs, .92 torsion bars and I do not know what the spec is on the front sway bar.   

[Troy]

What do you want it to be able to do? What is the drive train? Assuming you're looking to improve cornering and not darg strip ET?

Most of the suspension component upgrades will have more effect after you stiffen the body. Frame connectors then torque boxes (if you think you need them). Then I'd likely do torsion bars then front sway bar. You didn't mention if the rear springs are new. The rear bar may not technically be necessary (same as torque boxes). You'll need to realign after any ride height changes. Drastic stiffening may require better shocks. Once you get all that stiffened up you'll figure out that there's probably a lot of play in your steering overall. Never ending...

Basically, a tight steering box and hard springs will just twist the body before it ever gets around to changing the car's direction. Start at the foundation and work your way out.

Troy

[XH29N0G]

Troy,

thanks - some quick answers. 

Realistically, I am just looking at driving around to enjoy. I also want to have it drive as nicely as possible when my dad finally drives it since it was his car originally.

On the other hand I very recently caught the drag strip bug, but I don't see that as my main and long term priority.   

I had not thought of the rear springs.  They are original.  The car does not noticeably sag in the rear or elsewhere.  Unless there is some reason I don't know of, I will wait on those.   

[c00nhunterjoe]

Frame connectors, dropped steering pressure, sway bars, 1 inch torsion bars, shocks.

[Troy]

Ok, I'm assuming you have a 383... the engine weight makes a difference in what size torsion bars and sway bar you may be looking for. Even stock "R/T" sized parts (the factory HD suspension) will make a big difference. Remember it also included bigger brakes! However, with good, modern radials, even the "better" suspension isn't all that great. The original bias ply tires had a lot of give and little traction so making the suspension stiffer was pointless.

Check out some of Dino's threads. He's made his car into a very capable driver - but not ideal for any sort of track usage. Lots of good advice here:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=96360.0
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=112067.0

Interesting that it mentions seats. My cars don't have consoles so hard turns could dump me in the floor. The factory seats are not conducive to twisty road driving!

Also there are threads promoting C-body tie rod ends and the Moog adjustable parts.

And then there's the k-fame and lower control arm stiffening pieces...
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,121552.0.html

Troy

[XH29N0G]

Thanks both, and thanks for the links and pointers. 

C00nhunterjoe, dropping the steering pressure is a different box, right?  Not something as simple as putting a bigger pulley on the pump?

Tory, Yes it is a B (low deck) block - with aluminum heads and intake and no A/C.  The suspension is the factory HD suspension (it was ordered that way).  It has 11" drums on all 4.

[Troy]

You can adjust the stock box to account for some looseness from worn parts:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?;topic=28141.0

Adjusting the pressure covered here:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,89675.0.html

Troy

[green69rt]

It's a big job but Firm Feel will either beef up your K-frame or sell you a kit to do it.  In either case you have to remove the k-frame.  No a small task.  I can't really say if it makes a big diff but if you're thinking of doing torque boxes and frame connectors then the k-frame is about the same.  

The K-frame work helps to tighten up the steering.   Maybe someone here has some experience.

A lot of the things discussed here are very small increments in improvement.  Biggest bang from what I hear is...better shocks, alignment with offset bushings, front sway bar, frame connectors, torque boxes, steering gear.  Once you get past these things I would think you're talking about a radical change of suspension setup such as a rack and pinion front end, etc.


Others might not agree with the order but at least it's a start.

[Mike DC]

 
The stock K-frame is prone to getting metal-fatigue cracks at the LCA mounting tubes.  If you do nothing else, check that area carefully.  The LCA wants to tear the tube out of the sidewalls of the K.


As for other things, I would do chassis stiffening.  Try searching around the net for complaints that chassis stiffening mods weren't worth the trouble.  You won't find any.  Do some kind of subframe connectors but you don't need to cut through the floor or anything.  Moderate size SCs+ torque boxing is better than huge heavy SCs without anything else.
   

[HPP]

Agree with others that chassis stiffening being the first thing. Then I'd go alignment, then shocks. After that you can decide if stepped up spring rates or stepped up sway bar rates would be next. Steering box changes don't really improve handling, but do change the way it feels. I'd try stepping down pressure after the alignment. Positive caster and lower pressure may get you the feel you want without swapping the box.