News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Superbird headlight buckets

Started by Hemi Runner, November 26, 2016, 09:45:40 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Hemi Runner

Quote from: DAY CLONA on December 03, 2016, 12:15:53 PM
Quote from: Hemi Runner on December 03, 2016, 10:22:24 AM
Thanks. Anyone have any pictures showing where the factory drains are located? I still need to add those.



Mike, only 1 drain hole in each light bucket, approx 1/2" (.500) diameter, pretty much centered on this rectangular flat bottom section of the bucket, location marked with red dot

Mike
Does it just drain into the lower valance and then out or is there a hose that carries it somewhere?

Hemi Runner

Quote from: DAY CLONA on December 03, 2016, 12:24:45 PM
There's also a "U" shape hole (marked in red) cut in the top bucket edge for a split grommet to slide into, this is where the wiring harness and vacuum lines go to enter the backside of the pivot frame, I know your using linear activators, but you'll still need to address the electrical supply, unless you have an alternate plan/path for the wiring?

Mike
I'm not sure yet. I was originally going to mount the actuators on the outside of each box and use a lever on the shaft to work the headlight and run the headlight wires through the same sides. Now, I don't think I want it putting all the force on one side of the pivots so I make go through the back where the original vacuum units go. If so, I'll route the wires through there.

A383Wing

no hose, just drains into the lower valance

DAY CLONA


I'm not sure yet. I was originally going to mount the actuators on the outside of each box and use a lever on the shaft to work the headlight and run the headlight wires through the same sides. Now, I don't think I want it putting all the force on one side of the pivots so I make go through the back where the original vacuum units go. If so, I'll route the wires through there.
[/quote]


Mike, I've mounted electric motors (Firebird/Fiero) and fabricated bellcranks along with heim ends to work with the stock pivots/arms/shafts, using just one side of the pivots on quite a few builds, I use the Firebird/Fiero motors because they are readily available at parts stores, and they have a built in mechanical/electrical "limiter" that shuts the motor off, then rearms it for reversing it's position on the next command when the motor's arm hits it stop, I generally fab a plate that holds the motor to the side of the bucket , maufacturer an arm for the motor, an arm for the headlight pivot frame shaft, and 2 heim joints, and a section of threaded rod that I can adjust/fine tune the distance between the motor arm and the piviot shaft/bellcrank, the Firebird/Fiero motor will spin all day in one or the other direction until a positive stop makes the motor engage it's mechanical/electrical set and reversal reset...A problem I encountered using stock Chrysler headlight motors, or power window motors, or linener acuators was that if they did not reach their electrical internal stops, to position themselves for reversal, they would still remain in electrical load and burn out, one of the reasons I went to the Firebird/Fiero motors on some headlight builds, but I still went thru the grommet/"U" shaped hole in the upper bucket for the headlight wiring, as it's the only practical location for the bulk of wires to travel in unison with the headlight door's activation/travel

I employed the Firebird/Fiero set up on Mike Musto's Angrier Daytona when I was outfitting it with an Aero package, to date he's informed me of only 1 headlight motor failure in approx 8-9 years of use, and that car gets around, and he's put in plenty of seat time around the country, other customer's whom I've employed this set up with have had no issues either

I wish I had some photos of the motor/bucket construction, but I lost those on another computer that had a "meltdown"

Mike

Hemi Runner

Interesting option. I can figure out the fab work and linkage, no problem, and could probably use one motor for both doors. I looked them up and they do look robust but maybe a tad heavy. I'll save that option in case the linear units don't work out.

Hemi Runner

Here's my original thought behind headlight operation.

Hemi Runner

Milled up nifty pivot plates thanks to Dayclona's info.

Made them oversize for more adjustment.

Outboard plate. Note bronze bushing captured in there.


Hemi Runner


Got the actuator on with an adjustable length lever.