Alternator Amperage

[70sixpkrt]

I am thinking about switching my alternator. My headlights kind of flicker a little bit at night. I don't know what I have in there right now. It's either a 60 or 70 amp alternator. Would a PowerMaster 90 amp be too much? I am running a MSD Dist and MSD 6AL box. I'm not changing the alternator because of the flickering issue. I need a new alternator and don't know which one to use. Also did it come with a round back or square back for 1970?

[BLK 68 R/T]

Is what you have currently a stock alternator?

[70sixpkrt]

I don't remember what is in there now. I've owned the car for 30 years and have gone thru some alternators. It is a dual field round back but don't remember what amp.

[BLK 68 R/T]

IIRC '70 used a square back 60 amp alternator. Unless you are going to be running accessories, like fans, etc, I would just stick with the stock alternator to keep things simple. I would also check the firewall bulkhead connector and make sure it is in good shape and not burned or corroded.

[70sixpkrt]

The firewall bulk head connector is all good. I just fried my fusible link. My alternator took a dump on me. What brand is good? The  only thing I'm running is MSD Dist with MSD6AL box. 500hp motor.

[MoParJW]

I recently installed a 90 amp Powermaster, only upgraded the charge wires to a thicker gauge and eliminated the bulkhead connectors... no problems so far.

[Nacho-RT74]

Read stickied thread

[Nacho-RT74]

By the way, you are worried about the flickering headlights and not ammeter flickering? Both are related to the same. Saving one will save both... And will keep safer the ignition system too

[BLK 68 R/T]

The firewall bulk head connector is all good. I just fried my fusible link. My alternator took a dump on me. What brand is good? The  only thing I'm running is MSD Dist with MSD6AL box. 500hp motor.

On my last car which had totally stock wiring, I had good luck with a stock alternator from autozone. It was on there for 5 years and was still working fine when I finally sold it, it was also my daily driver, 68 GTX.

[70sixpkrt]

This is the alternator that I'm using know but don't know the amp.

[Nacho-RT74]

This is the alternator that I'm using know but don't know the amp.

some problem with the link of the image you posted

No matter which alt you got, if is the stock one, I serioussly doubt you can get more than 50 amps spinning fast from it at full request, which means maybe 25 amps iddling. Not enough juice for anything.

for a healthier charging system, need around 45 amps IDDLING... which DOESN'T MEAN you'll get ALLWAYS 45 amps from it iddling, just that is able to provide it!

THEN you'll get no more dimming or flickering at headlights ( depending on switch, terminals and wiring conditions ), or ammeter.

[70sixpkrt]

I know this company is not in business anymore but trying to find out the specs on my bad one.

[70-500-SE-EXPORT]

Ive had this alternator for 5 yrs with no problems. They sell it with internal and external regulator. Made in USA. Bought it after cheap auto parts store rebuilds kept crapping out. Because It is higher amps I run a wire directly from the back of the alt to the battery to bypass the cheesy firewall connector that all the voltage normally runs thu and melts the connector.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-7018/overview/make/chrysler

[70sixpkrt]

I've seen that alternator. I'm just wondering if that is too much amp.

[Nacho-RT74]

now the pic floated up

AS FAR WIRING AND BULKHEAD TERMINALS are upgraded, everything is sourced from the right side ( alt side and not batt side ) you can get a thousands amps alternator... it will provide just the car requirements. If car needs 35 amps to work, a million amps alternator will source just 35 amps if is able to do it at certain RPMs.

As I have told many times, the main goal is get the best juice at the minimal RPMs as posible. If you make that, your charging system will be healthy everywhere, of course with correct mantenience. Our car requires not just oil, water and gas, front suspension aligment and bushing replacements, performance upgrades etc... also clean and tight terminals are required for correct mantenience. Don't underestimate the electricity and also try to understand it too!

Camshaft, Pistons and heads are not the only pieces we need to understand LOL

[70sixpkrt]

Thanks for all the info. My buddy has my current alternator right now and he is going to see what's wrong with it. If i need to get another one, that Powermaster might be it.

[c00nhunterjoe]

The firewall bulk head connector is all good. I just fried my fusible link. My alternator took a dump on me. What brand is good? The  only thing I'm running is MSD Dist with MSD6AL box. 500hp motor.

On my last car which had totally stock wiring, I had good luck with a stock alternator from autozone. It was on there for 5 years and was still working fine when I finally sold it, it was also my daily driver, 68 GTX.

I tried the stock replacement pn dl7001 from Auto zone and went through 6 of them before giving up on the warrenty. The bearings would scatter above 6500 rpm. Went through 2 per week and then bought a powermaster. They burnt out and quit charging so converted to the stock replacement gm si series. Currently run the 65 amp version with no issues but car only has halogen bulbs and an msd box to tax it. Elec fans and waterpump will require more output.

    As for flickering lamps, thats mkre likely to be a voltage regulator then an alternator. Steady Dim lights at idle that brighten steadily when the rpm is raised is an overtaxed alternator.

[Nacho-RT74]

voltage and Amperage are proportional. If you don't get enough amperage, voltage will drop out too. Voltage regulator can't raise the output voltage if the alt doens't have how to give the juice. Would need to get 18 volts maybe!? then will burn lot of stuff around

[c00nhunterjoe]

voltage and Amperage are proportional. If you don't get enough amperage, voltage will drop out too. Voltage regulator can't raise the output voltage if the alt doens't have how to give the juice. Would need to get 18 volts maybe!? then will burn lot of stuff around

He said the lights are flickering. Thats typical of a regulator, not a low amperage output. If they are flickering then the amperage is fluctuating. If the alternator were at full field due to being overtaxed, then the output voltage would be consistant, just low, not raising and dropping.

[Nacho-RT74]

Is true but depending what ammeter got to read and the RPMs, it can be voltage &/or amperage. Or wiring

[70sixpkrt]

My buddy took my alternator apart and fixed it. I had my other buddy replace my stud capacitor but he forgot to include the insulator between that and the case so it was grounding itself and popped my fusible link. It is all good now. Thanks for the info.