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72 Duster won't start.

Started by Aussie R/T, July 17, 2016, 10:25:25 PM

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Aussie R/T

Cars been starting fine for couple of weeks.Over that time i have been pulling excess wires from NOS system and hooking up wiper arm getting car ready for inspection.This morning found car won't start and seems to have no ignition power lights work but no wipers no E/Brake light ETC.Shorted neutral switch out and motor winds over so went to checking the fuses noticed a small relay floating around on the left side of the dash three pronged thing and it just fell down.Is there a chance that's all it could be.Where does this ignition relay go and what are wire colors or does it plug into a fixed plug that is only one way.

Pete in NH

Hi,

There is no "ignition relay" on a 72 Duster. If the three prong unit you are referring to is fairly small and rectangular in shape it is likely the instrument gauge voltage regulator. This part being unplugged would not stop the car from starting, the gauges would just not work. The next thing I would do is put a voltmeter on the plus side of the ignition coil and see if you have voltage there in the run position of the ignition key. If you don't you need to find out why. 

Aussie R/T

cheers for that.Yes looks to be the gauge relay has come adrift.Will check tomorrow if i have power to the coil.I pretty sure has none or it would have started when i shorted the safety switch as the motor turned over well but not so much as a kick.It's like the ignition switch stopped working as i have no wipers or even e brake light.Can't complain i've had it two weeks after it's journey half way around the world. :'(

Aussie R/T

squeezed hand my hand around the back of the instuments and managed to get the relay {OWEII} into the dash.After a stressful night over what to do with the car decided to try and jump start it so at least i can get it on a truck.So i know to short neutral safety out but as no coil power was going make a wire go to the coil.Ringing the chrysler guroos at USA1.com.au i enquired after where to actually hit the coil and he said be easier to put the power to the ballast brown wire which i did so with couple pumps on the celerator she fired rite up.As a matter of fact i couldn't stop her until i thought about the key and then turned it off.Funny thing was when i jumped her the second time I got in turned her off and then tried to start it up and it did,I could not believe it .So now I have everything working.Just can't believe it.Been a good day to be me.   

Aussie R/T

wonder if anyone knows the colour of the washer wire and what side of the car it runs as all i have left to do is refit wasers for wipers and get a horn working after i removed air horns.Duster is 3 speed wipers with washer. Is the wireing diagram on net anywhere.cheers for help.

polywideblock



  and 71 GA4  383 magnum  SE

Aussie R/T


Aussie R/T

Thanks for that Man.That made it easy as to test and now I can use the original switch and wire with an extension on it. :2thumbs:

Aussie R/T

 :yesnod:just letting you guys know all is well with the duster.Car has been fine for couple of weeks.Have know idea what was going on with it.Like the "on" position was not making contact.Anyway been out to check it heaps of time and even started it a couple of times and all is good.Rewired the washers and now have replaced the horn relay with new one and now just waiting patiently for the new horn button to turn up.Cheers for the help.

polywideblock



  and 71 GA4  383 magnum  SE

Aussie R/T

Car is still not on the road but has been started heaps and driven to the tilt tray a couple of times for repairslike the leak in the diff and not had any starting issues.Really have no idea what the hell went on with the car but have cleaned the contacts ont he neutral safety switch and crossed my fingers. Since my original post have done heaps of work also.Like,removed the seat to stop the seat warmer protruding out the side and caught it before it went through the vynal.Oil change to penrite HPR 30 idle oil pressure has risen over 20 psi pretty happy with that.Completely flushed the brakes putting nearly a liter of brake fluid through it to clean it up.Adjusted back brakes and now have very good working hand brake {E Brake}. wired washers in to work with the factory washer button and replace the wiper blades.removed the factory 3.23 and replaced it with a 3.5 LSD and fixed oil leak.Added over a 1.5 liters of oil to the tranny hopefully drop the revs a bit on the stall.heheh.Bodjied up the door skins to hold in there until i can order new ones.Manufactured new horn and replaced one of the not working horns.Waiting on new wheels and tyres to turn up and have booked her in for RWC this week.Hope he takes it easy on me cause I want to do some 11'ses.
 

Aussie R/T

more.The car is still not on the road due to the RWC guy finding rust in two places.Like to thank the appraiser for not doing his job after paying him 500 bucks.Car has been behaving it's self though which is a good thing.Seems I may have contributed to the starting issues when disconnecting the battery.Not sure if you guys agree but seems the best way to disconnect the battery is to start with the Negative lead  then the positive.This is reversed for hooking back up.I do agree with this as this is how you jump start dead cars so maybe didn't like the way i was disconnecting the battery.Since being told though I have insured the car and keep the battery hooked up and all has been good,touch wood.Still have lotts to do.Fix rust,replace the "B" body front sway bar with an "A" body one.Done front wheel bearings have to replace rear shackle bushes and back the rear brakes off so they don't skid when you apply them.Got to remember to take some pics.Who am I kidding I'm over 50 flat out remembering my name.hehehe