8 3/4" rear end

[Windsor]

So, I am looking to get another 8 3/4" so I don't have to pull the one out of my car to build my new frame. After calling around to junk yards to find one, no one local could tell me if they had any. They have to go by year and model and I didnt feel like doing a list. I went to one place that I have seen them before. I found only one, it was tagged for a 68 Imperial with a 742 Sure-Grip and 2.94 gears, lots of grime and two broken studs on one side. After smacking the brakes with another drum, I still couldn't get it to move. So I went in and asked how much it would cost and reminded him that it was pretty well jammed. $250
My question is, is this close to reasonable and what I would expect at most junkyards? I think I paid $100 for the one I have since the guy thought it was a 8.25".

[A383Wing]

what year & car are you putting this in?

[Windsor]

1940 Chrysler. Not too worried about length since I will be narrowing it anyways. What I mainly need is a housing so I can get it clean and prepped to get the ends cut off and 4 link brackets set up.
They do have some of the older ones with nuts at the end of the axles (dont remember what carrier #s were), but I'll pass on those.

[Kern Dog]

If the gears are what you like and you intend to narrow the axle, the price seems fair. The brake parts are easy to find elsewhere if you need to.

[Windsor]

Not the ratio I plan on using. I have 2.76 under my car right now, looking at 3.23 or 3.55. Since I couldn't get it to turn, I have no clue what the internal condition is.

[Bronzedodge]

Not sure where you are Windsor, but there's a junkyard in York PA that has plenty.  The owner is a good guy and easy to deal with.  Mopar guy too.

http://www.baughmansupullit.com/

[Windsor]

A bit far, I'm in Oregon. I just called Wildcat, $450 for one. Guess I'll go back up with some tools and see if I can get the one I found to move.

[Troy]

A lot of trucks and vans had them - and the gear ratios would be more inline with what you want. I can't imagine it's all that hard to find one.
http://www.mymopar.com/Mopar8_75RearEndGuide.htm

http://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2004/10/Mopar-8-3-4-inch-rear-ends/1280934.html

Here's a list of cars and trucks you can look at to find one of these differentials:

1964-1976 Dart, Demon, Scamp, Duster, Barracuda, Valiant
1957-1974 full-size Newport, New Yorker, Imperial, Polara, Monaco, Fury, and 880
1962-1974 Satellite, Coronet, Charger, R/T, GTX, Belvedere, Road Runner and Super Bee
1970-1974 'Cuda and Challenger
1958-1974 D100 and W100 pickups
1964-1970 A100 vans
1971-1974 B100 and 200 series vans

Troy

[Windsor]

Thanks Troy. That's the same list I have.
We have a couple yards close, between them I found one 8.75.
Like I said, when I called they had to have year, model, and engine so they could look it up. Kind of a pita doing a list over the phone with a parts puller. I will probably just end up driving to a couple yards further away (2-6 hours round trip) so I can look at what they have.

[Dino]

Have you tried placing an ad on Craigslist? There's always a bunch for sale in my area (Detroit).

[Windsor]

Good idea. Thanks
One of the bigger network yards a bit over an hour north of me can order one, but none on hand.

[Windsor]

Well, went and worked on the rear end for an hour at the junkyard. Couldn't get either drum off. They aren't seized to the axles, I can pry them half an inch off the axles and there is a rubber gasket between the axle and drum. The drums seem to be seized at the top of the shoes. I unbolted the wheel cylinders and got 1/2" more movement.
I pushed my magnetic rod as far in as I could. It came up with no chunks, but a bit of sludge. Oil was clear with a reddish orange tinge.
I talked with them and they said that I I buy it, knowing all brake components are done for, they will give me time to rip it apart and will guarantee the housing/complete third member with sure grip are good. I am going to go pick it up on Monday.

[RallyeMike]

The 742 SG pig is worth the value of the entire axle. No brainer. The brake shoes might be rusted on. You'll just have to beat it to death with a sledge.

[Windsor]

Yeah. I did find a second 8.75 with a 742 buried under a bunch of toyota axles. But they are the same price and it is a non-SG with 2.76 gears. Beating on it with a sledge didnt work, but I'm going to put it on a stand so I have better access to the adjusters to make sure I got them all the way down. Then I'll try again. If all else fails, I'll just cut the drums.

[Windsor]

Half a can of penetrating oil, 2 hours of beating the drums, and now a rear end that turns freely with a pile of brake parts on the ground.
Both axles turn in the same direction when the yoke is turned with the only unusual noise being some dirt under the shield below the yoke. Turns smoothly. When one axle is turned, the other turns in the same direction.
So, all said, seems like the internals are good. I'll pull the axles and pumpkin out tomorrow to get a good look at it.

[Windsor]

Got it completely stripped down, and third member clean (still need to sandblast and paint the exterior). Looks like I'll be ordering new internals for the SG. A couple of the gears have rust on their teeth from sitting without oil so long.
I cut the perches off and ground the parting lines smooth on the tubes. I also ground down the joint welds on the top and bottom then got them welded back up. The welds were gobbled up and there was a split all the way across on the inside and outside welds. Now they are clean and look pretty too.
I am going to get the tools to narrow the rear end and figure out how narrow its going to get. Frame rails will be 28" on the outside, and 4 link brackets are inline with the rails.

[Windsor]

Third member has been hot tanked, sand blasted, and coated with fogging oil. When I'm done using it while to narrow the tubes, it will get washed a couple more times then rebuilt and painted.

[Windsor]

[Windsor]

I'm looking at Coker 285/70r15 (30.75") on 15x10 smoothies with 4" backspacing. I think this will give me a good look (from the rear and filling the wheel arches). With 3.55 gears, I think it will give me a fair cruise rpm while not sacrificing too much performance.
What do y'all think?

[Kern Dog]

You have been a busy guy, Windsor...

[Windsor]

Not really. Having some post-op issues that are keeping me from doing a lot. I currently can't feel my elbow, forearm, and half my hand feels like its being attacked by fireants.
I did drill holes in the housing for fill and drain. Got some weld on bungs that are getting welded on, I'll get some pictures when they are done. I think it will make it easier for fluid changes/top offs having the fill on the back and a drain on the bottom (no more disassembly to drain). I went with mild steel bungs instead of stainless since the entire housing will be getting sandblasted and painted.
I'm waiting to see if my contractor decides to install my culvert and driveway before it snows. If not, that $ will be put into getting as much done as possible.

[Windsor]

Got the fill and drain welded to the housing.

When I start working on narrowing the housing, I'll mill the drain down a bit.

[Windsor]

I'll just throw this out there. I plan on buying a narrowing set (EBay Item Number222221527194) to narrow my rear end. Once I get it done, if anyone else is wanting to narrow theirs, I would be willing to rent it out.

[Kern Dog]

Is it too difficult to just use the stock method to fill the axle? I mean the fill plug on the RH side... It is foolproof. You fill until it starts to spill out.

[Windsor]

Difficult? No. Easier to fill from the back at a downward angle than into the side? Yes.
I figured that since I was going to put a drain on it so I could change fluid without having to pull stuff apart, it is easy enough to put a fill in a better spot.
Fill process is the same as far as opening the OE plug to tell when it's full, just now I won't have to reach in past the planned 4 link and locating bar with a bottle of gear oil.