2095191 Alternator - Amps

[CRW-FK5]

My car shouldn't be drawing much anyway (no A/C, electric fans, high powered stereo, etc...), but does have a very notable issue with light dimming (headlights and interior lights) and actually radio cutting out when lights are on, brake pedal pushed, and idling (see my other post on topic), so that's why the higher amp alternator is of interest to me.  I actually went down to O'reilly's yesterday and picked up a 60 amp for $52.  i was going to install it and see if the issue with dimming improved at least to the point where the radio didn't cut out.  When I got home, however, I found I couldn't even spin the thing.  Something was binding in the armature.  So I'm just going to returning it and have my old one rebuilt to a 75 amp one ($80) instead.  I'll later plan on running a solid wire to the ammeter to minimize fire risk from bulkhead connection.

even 60 amps just for that could be fairly enough, 78 amps are definitelly way better.

need to note, if you have standard headlights ( No halogen ) and decide to keep on stock system without relays upgrades, part of the dimming lights, even some of that is a factory "failure" due the low charge capacity, the years adds more to this. Could come from loosen and dirty terminals all around. Sure the straight path between amm and alt post will save lot of that, but will be nice to check and get all mantenience. It's time to do it. Nobody takes care of electricity untill fails.

Check headlights switch plug, floor dimmer switch plug, bulkhead forward harness plug and light beams plugs

Great advise.  Will see how the 78 amp alternator goes and will make further changes as needed, but will definitely include bypassing the bulkhead connector.  I have checked a few of the headlight connections but will double check. 

[Nacho-RT74]

78 amps alt is a bitty wider. Maybe couple of milimeters. Can fit tight but still will fit. Rear spacer can be trimmed out if needed.

Sometimes for same reason could need ( depending on year and engine setup ) a bit longer belts too, because for same reason, rear housing can meet or be really close to the block, untill kiss it a bit, so need to keep alt out of the block area.

In my car had to do both... Trim a bit the rear spacer and a bit longer belts

[Nacho-RT74]

Here they are side by side. Allmost unnoticeable, but it is. This extra wideness is due the bigger cassing and bigger stator inside, which is what gives more juice.

Despite the pulleys diff



Smaller pulley makes also a huge difference, no matter if single or double, but smaller as posible. It does exist single groove small diameter too

Earliers 60/65 amps used since 75/76 are also like these on the right, wider.

[CRW-FK5]

78 amps alt is a bitty wider. Maybe couple of milimeters. Can fit tight but still will fit. Rear spacer can be trimmed out if needed.

Sometimes for same reason could need ( depending on year and engine setup ) a bit longer belts too, because for same reason, rear housing can meet or be really close to the block, untill kiss it a bit, so need to keep alt out of the block area.

In my car had to do both... Trim a bit the rear spacer and a bit longer belts

I just dropped my alternator off at local rebuilder who says he can build to achieve 70A (not sure what it is now but post '70 design so likely 60A).  Any higher would require more difficult to get parts, according to him.  He found 2 diodes completely missing on mine.

[Nacho-RT74]

that could be great!

Mostly of the times the stator windings ( turns and gauge of wire ) is the main deal on this. there is a thread on FBBO about a custom job made on the stator, not cheap though. will post

[Nacho-RT74]

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/had-alternator-hand-rewound.116601/