RB Engine mounts

[justcruisin]

I need to replace the engine mounts on my 71, I have the stock mounts with the bolt trick on on drivers side which has worked well. Happy to buy stock mounts and do the same again but would like to know what else is around.

[303 Mopar]

I've used magmounts from Mancini and they work great!  No need for the bolt trick either.

[John_Kunkel]

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/PolyLoc.html

[RECHRGD]

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/PolyLoc.html

I tried those a few years back and although they are strong, they were too stiff for me.  The car about rattled my fillings out.  I went back to the stock mounts and bolt trick......

[birdsandbees]

Really, I've run solid steel engine mounts since 1980. Got tired of torn left rubber and a chain from frame to the left cylinder head to hold it down. Never noticed any difference in car vibration with the steel mounts. I put them back on last week when bolting things down to my K frame.

[RECHRGD]

Really, I've run solid steel engine mounts since 1980. Got tired of torn left rubber and a chain from frame to the left cylinder head to hold it down. Never noticed any difference in car vibration with the steel mounts. I put them back on last week when bolting things down to my K frame.

Hmmm, don't know what to say then.  If your car is good with steel mounts, I can't see these being much different......

[justcruisin]

Thanks for the reply's, I see the Polylocks are listed as out of stock. I think I will give the magmounts a go.

[green69rt]

Gosh, $263 plus S&H.  I think I'll stick with the bolt trick.

Edit :  Oops, sorry. Only $199 for B/RB!

[John_Kunkel]

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/PolyLoc.html

I tried those a few years back and although they are strong, they were too stiff for me.  The car about rattled my fillings out.  I went back to the stock mounts and bolt trick......

The "bolt trick", in effect, negates the cushioning of the rubber by connecting the two metal components with metal bolts.

[RECHRGD]

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/PolyLoc.html

I tried those a few years back and although they are strong, they were too stiff for me.  The car about rattled my fillings out.  I went back to the stock mounts and bolt trick......

The "bolt trick", in effect, negates the cushioning of the rubber by connecting the two metal components with metal bolts.

True, but only on the drivers side.  In fact, I would think that you still have some cushioning with the bolted one, especially at idle.  Those polylock mounts cost a bunch and just caused me a lot of grief.  Not only was the vibration unacceptable, but they were not as thick as the stock mounts.  That caused the engine to sit just enough lower that I had to massage the drivers side header a little more.

[justcruisin]

I found that it didn't cause any vibration, what I did was drill the steel slightly larger than the rubber and I used a nylock nut and washer just snug, with the weight of the engine I guess there was a slight clearance. There was no vibration under power or at idle.

[birdsandbees]

No vibration at idle or full throttle!!   Have had them on since about 1980 !

Solid steel mounts. AN9 (9/16th) aircraft bolts filling both K frame and MMount holes with no clearance.