Will adding a 3 row radiator and electric fuel pump be good upgrades for a 73?

[WH23G3G]

So the last time I drove my 73 was last summer when I had a mechanic work on it. He adjusted timing and mixture since I had a vapor lock issue the same year the first time I drove it. I also added the spacer recommended to me by Edelbrock, changed the fuel pump, changed the metal fuel line from pump to filter to a silicone hose, and also added in an inline fuel pressure gauge. After he did the tuning we drove it around in 80-90 temp for about and hour in relatively light traffic on the backroads. Upon coming back to the house he told me that he didn't like where the temp gauge was sitting. I'm sure it would get even hotter in the town traffic with all the bunched up stoplights in a row. He couldn't find any defects in the cooling system or anymore problems with the timing. I've got a Mildon water pump, 7 blade factory Mopar A/C fan, HD thermostatic fan cluthc, factory 180 thermostat, 27" oem replacement radiator that's 2 Row, the 400 is stock but its .040 over, has a stock cam, heads, Weiand Action Plus intake, Edelbrock 1400 carb. It ran great that time we drove it. I went back through my receipts from all the stuff I've done to the car and noticed the radiator I bought was a 2 row. Is that efficient enough? It at least didn't vapor lock that time. When I replaced my mechanical fuel pump it was running 7psi and Edelbrock told me that I need to get it down between 5-6 psi with their carbs. So I swapped out the pump and it's down to about 5.5 psi. I was just wondering if adding a 5-6 psi electric pump back near the tank would eliminate the vapor lock issue for good? I'm asking because I need to do something with this Charger as it's been sitting in my garage as I'm spending more time on my Dakota R/T. I don't think I want to get rid of my Charger but I want it to be reliable on the road.

[justcruisin]

The factory gauge may not be accurate, to be sure of the temp it is a good idea to plumb in an auxiliary gauge. If your radiator is a factory style 2 row - with 1/2" tubes on something like 1/2" spacings its is not up to a hot day in traffic IMO. Some may say it worked back in the day but my experience is that the temps climb uncontrolled - not worth the risk if you ask me. If you don't mind the look of aluminium, a bolt in factory fitting radiator with two rows of 1" tubes on 3/8" spacing works well and is really cost effective. Together with your clutched fan and a good fitting shroud you shouldn't have any issues.

[72Charger72]

Mine use to vapor lock all the time. Check the routing of your fuel lines and I found along with a spacer plate I added a heat disperser plate under the carb also. I also eventually changed to a semi high rise intake.

[Highbanked Hauler]

  Somebody correct me if I am wrong. Vapor lock is caused by fuel being heated or boiling in the carb. when you are sitting in traffic or go to start the car when the motor is HOT. I have a 1 in. spacer on mine and have run a variety of carbs with steel lines  on it with no problem but it does get hot sitting in traffic. The larger the radiator the better . Mine is a 2 core aluminum with 1 in. tubes and its great on the road  but I am going to put the largest pusher fan that I can fit on mine. Does your car have the AC condenser in it ?

[73charger440]

I just put a champion radiator in my 73. Just know there's two size radiators for that car. Measure between the upper mounting bolts and if it measures 30 or 31 you'll need part    166-CC503 if not you'll need the 28" maybe AC vs non AC  Sense getting the right size it's an Exact Fit even the fan shroud. I would post pictures but I can figure how to post pictures on here from my iPhone