My build *UPDATE* 8/11/18

[SmashingPunkFan]

Moving along as scheduled this year, I'm very happy.

But I got to cutting the drivers floor out and am not sure how much transmission tunnel to leave as a lip... about an inch? 2 inches?
Plus any pictures would be amazing.
Thanks for all the support DC forum!  

[hemi-hampton]

Do you have the new floor. I like to leave a lip of a inch or 2 but some don't like any lip to overlap. Matter of opinion. LEON.

[PlainfieldCharger]

Do you have the new floor. I like to leave a lip of a inch or 2 but some don't like any lip to overlap. Matter of opinion. LEON.

Leon, what are the pros and cons of leaving a overlap?

[Troy]

If you overlap it's easier to weld and stronger than a butt weld. But the guy who owned one of my cars before me just left the jagged edge of the old pan hanging out the bottom which would have caught water and dirt and rusted out rather quickly. Leaving a large overlap could trap moisture between the 2 panels if it isn't sealed well.

I use the new pan as a template. Lay it on the old pan and trace it out so you know about where to cut the old one. You can cut just inside the line to leave room for trimming or well inside the line for overlap. I have a flanging tool that leaves a 1/4" step and, if welded on both sides, is very strong. However, it's a highly visible repair. It may be fine inside the tunnel where it's unlikely to be seen.

Troy

[SmashingPunkFan]

If you overlap it's easier to weld and stronger than a butt weld. But the guy who owned one of my cars before me just left the jagged edge of the old pan hanging out the bottom which would have caught water and dirt and rusted out rather quickly. Leaving a large overlap could trap moisture between the 2 panels if it isn't sealed well.

I use the new pan as a template. Lay it on the old pan and trace it out so you know about where to cut the old one. You can cut just inside the line to leave room for trimming or well inside the line for overlap. I have a flanging tool that leaves a 1/4" step and, if welded on both sides, is very strong. However, it's a highly visible repair. It may be fine inside the tunnel where it's unlikely to be seen.

Troy

Awesome. I figured about an inch would be ample. I'm not super concerned about seeing the repairs, not many will see underneath it. As long as it's strong, and resistant to rusting again

[Dino]

Why would you want to overlap a floor pan? It's so easy to make it fit edge to edge. Cut out the bad part and lay it on top of the new pan. Cut it and lay it in the hole. Doesn't get much easier than that.   

[SmashingPunkFan]

Why would you want to overlap a floor pan? It's so easy to make it fit edge to edge. Cut out the bad part and lay it on top of the new pan. Cut it and lay it in the hole. Doesn't get much easier than that.   

Resting weight? I wouldn't personally feel too safe riding on Just a buttweld, when it could rest some weight on the existing tranny tunnel. But that's just me

[Dino]

the butt welds would be more than strong enough to hold anything, but it's all academic because the pan will also be welded to the frame running underneath.

[Troy]

Yes, there's a lot of support in the floor pans! I butt welded the floors in my Challenger. Nothing moves!

Hey Dino, my floors came out in 100 pieces that were all mangled (used spot weld cutters, air chisel, cutoff wheels, etc.). I wish I could figure out how to remove them in one piece!

Troy

[Dino]

HA! Yeah that makes it a bit more complicated doesn't it? Think of it as a fun and entertaining puzzle!   

[SmashingPunkFan]

the butt welds would be more than strong enough to hold anything, but it's all academic because the pan will also be welded to the frame running underneath.

Awesome. Sounds good to me  this is just my first stab at front floorpan, and I want it done right

[SmashingPunkFan]

Found some rocker panel rust through... any suggestions? Definitely aiming to patch rather than replace.
What gauge steel should I use?

[hemi-hampton]

Pics of a similar repair I did. LEON.

[hemi-hampton]

Ended up patching under patch. Then faked the 4 spot welds. After painting looked factory like never repaired. LEON.

[SmashingPunkFan]

Pics of a similar repair I did. LEON.

Very nice. What did you spray on thats white?

[SmashingPunkFan]

Ended up patching under patch. Then faked the 4 spot welds. After painting looked factory like never repaired. LEON.

I love the detail.
What gauge steel did you use to replace?

[SmashingPunkFan]

https://youtu.be/hJjCwRR0n8Q

Heres my drivers side replacement in under 4 minutes

[hemi-hampton]

Pics of a similar repair I did. LEON.

Very nice. What did you spray on thats white?

Sprayed nothing that is white. Unless your talking about the bare metal your seeing. The rust was sandblasted to bare clean metal. In the last pic I used All Metal body filler that is silver in color. LEON.

[hemi-hampton]

Ended up patching under patch. Then faked the 4 spot welds. After painting looked factory like never repaired. LEON.

I love the detail.
What gauge steel did you use to replace?

Can't remember the gauge but probably around 22 guage. LEON.

[PlainfieldCharger]

https://youtu.be/hJjCwRR0n8Q

Heres my drivers side replacement in under 4 minutes

Thanks for sharing your video. Almost like watching a car show on TV... The whole car can be done next month.....

[SmashingPunkFan]

Ended up patching under patch. Then faked the 4 spot welds. After painting looked factory like never repaired. LEON.

I love the detail.
What gauge steel did you use to replace?

Can't remember the gauge but probably around 22 guage. LEON.

All metal? Is that a primer?
Did you apply anything inside the panel?
Thanks, Shaun.

[hemi-hampton]

Right after I wrote All Metal I wrote Body Filler. SO, The All Metal is Body Filler. Not Primer. I did not apply anything inside the panel. I did apply Weld threw primer under & inbetween my metal patches. LEON.

[SmashingPunkFan]

Right after I wrote All Metal I wrote Body Filler. SO, The All Metal is Body Filler. Not Primer. I did not apply anything inside the panel. I did apply Weld threw primer under & inbetween my metal patches. LEON.

I read too fast, sorry
Good stuff to know, thanks.

[lukedukem]

https://youtu.be/hJjCwRR0n8Q

Heres my drivers side replacement in under 4 minutes

You have a Mohawk? Nice

Luke

[SmashingPunkFan]

https://youtu.be/hJjCwRR0n8Q

Heres my drivers side replacement in under 4 minutes

You have a Mohawk? Nice

Luke

I do haha ever since I was 18. Life of being a skateboarder, and a car enthusiasts at the same time

Shaun

[SmashingPunkFan]

Found some rocker panel rust through... any suggestions? Definitely aiming to patch rather than replace.
What gauge steel should I use?

The inside of the rocker/rail thats rusty seems extremely rusted inside.
Any suggestions on how to clean, or prevent future rust progression?

[SmashingPunkFan]

Found some rocker panel rust through... any suggestions? Definitely aiming to patch rather than replace.
What gauge steel should I use?

The inside of the rocker/rail thats rusty seems extremely rusted inside.
Any suggestions on how to clean, or prevent future rust progression?

The original inner rocker panel appears to be 22 gauge steel. I'm using rear quarter replacement donor patches to replace. So its now 20 gauge. Should hold up nicely

[SmashingPunkFan]

A little more progress

[SmashingPunkFan]

 Its all done!



https://youtu.be/L-olG1tm_vA

[PlainfieldCharger]

  Great video! Really gives you motivation

[Bronzedodge]

Looks good!

[SmashingPunkFan]

Moving forward to the quarters now...
Does anyone by chance have a decent shape passenger side one of these end caps they could part with?

Thanks for the info!

[SmashingPunkFan]

So, I was working on some stuff and this fell off tonight...

[SmashingPunkFan]

Working on this, and any advice on fitment?

[green69rt]

I see a picture, of what looks like the seat supports that go under the floor.  You probably already know that the supports are not all the same.  They're the same left to right but not front to back.  They look the same but they are not.  Wish I could explain better.

[SmashingPunkFan]

I see a picture, of what looks like the seat supports that go under the floor.  You probably already know that the supports are not all the same.  They're the same left to right but not front to back.  They look the same but they are not.  Wish I could explain better.

Oh dang, I totally forgot to mention what it was. Sorry!
Its the rear end of the quarter where it meets the tail light panel. I have good fitment on the othet end where the quarter mates to the door jam pillar. But here it appears to be a bit too long, and I was wondering if there was a trick or something to make it work better.

I really appreciate the help and advice

[hemi-hampton]

If the replacement 1/4 is aftermarket then it probably is to long.

[hemi-hampton]

Trick I use is put that end on first. then dont go all the way into the door jamb but weld the 1/4 about 1 inch before it goes inside door jamb & stays on outside. Why, this way it still retains the factory look & factory welds inside the door jamb. I use a panel flanger. Just my opinion. I'm sure others will disagree. LEON.

[SmashingPunkFan]

Trick I use is put that end on first. then dont go all the way into the door jamb but weld the 1/4 about 1 inch before it goes inside door jamb & stays on outside. Why, this way it still retains the factory look & factory welds inside the door jamb. I use a panel flanger. Just my opinion. I'm sure others will disagree. LEON.

That sounds like a good idea, I'm gonna play with it some as well. I know the rear end has had some side impacts before, hopefully it didn't push the tail panel in too far

[hemi-hampton]

Sample pic from 17 years ago when full 1/4's were not available. LEON.

[SmashingPunkFan]

Sample pic from 17 years ago when full 1/4's were not available. LEON.

Wow, a step back in time. That looks awesome Leon!
The only trouble with that method is, I had already cut away everything below the top body line including the door jam factory welds.

I trimmed a crossway between the new quarter and existing top line of the old quarter,  and I can now get it to slide with plenty of room forward from the tail light panel, but it pulls away from the door jam pillar...  

[hemi-hampton]

Notice I like to weld my 1/4's while on the ground on it's tires sitting on it's own weight. You get to much flex otherwise. Unless you have frame tied with sub frame connectors. I've seen many gaps screwed up not doing it this way. I like my gaps perfect. some peoples gaps suck. Good Luck. LEON.

[SmashingPunkFan]

Notice I like to weld my 1/4's while on the ground on it's tires sitting on it's own weight. You get to much flex otherwise. Unless you have frame tied with sub frame connectors. I've seen many gaps screwed up not doing it this way. I like my gaps perfect. some peoples gaps suck. Good Luck. LEON.

Ahh, that isn't something I've thought of before. I have the front on coasters, and the rear axle on stands. It seemed like a "simulated" weight.  Maybe it's not accurate enough though.

[lukedukem]

In your video, at the 2 min. mark, what is that black stuff your putting down in the channel of the cross members support

Luke

[SmashingPunkFan]

In your video, at the 2 min. mark, what is that black stuff your putting down in the channel of the cross members support

Luke

POR-15 rust incapsulator. I love that stuff, just keep it away from heat and sunshine. 

[SmashingPunkFan]

Here is my current dilemma.
I have some significant rust between the drivers door and wheelwell on the rocker panel area... very solid, but pitted.
I don't know exactly how to seal this, or neutralize the rust before I weld in the new quarter because I won't  be able to get to it after the heat cools down for por-15.

Need some 
Thank you

[SmashingPunkFan]

Pics of problem

[SmashingPunkFan]

Some progress...

[green69rt]

Here is my current dilemma.
I have some significant rust between the drivers door and wheelwell on the rocker panel area... very solid, but pitted.
I don't know exactly how to seal this, or neutralize the rust before I weld in the new quarter because I won't  be able to get to it after the heat cools down for por-15.

Need some 
Thank you

After you are done welding, you could try eastwoods Internal frame coating.  You can get into some tiny places with the spray tube they give you.  Just be ready for the cleanup afterward, it's extremely runny and goes everywhere.  Cleans up with degreaser if you don't let it set for more than a couple of hours.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

[SmashingPunkFan]

Here is my current dilemma.
I have some significant rust between the drivers door and wheelwell on the rocker panel area... very solid, but pitted.
I don't know exactly how to seal this, or neutralize the rust before I weld in the new quarter because I won't  be able to get to it after the heat cools down for por-15.

Need some 
Thank you

After you are done welding, you could try eastwoods Internal frame coating.  You can get into some tiny places with the spray tube they give you.  Just be ready for the cleanup afterward, it's extremely runny and goes everywhere.  Cleans up with degreaser if you don't let it set for more than a couple of hours.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

Is it a pretty solid product? I shall give it a try.
Thank you for the info

[green69rt]

I used it inside my trunk lid, inside the hood where you can't see and inside the A pillars.  Any place where I coulldn't get in to clean up.  Kind of a last resort thing.

[SmashingPunkFan]

I used it inside my trunk lid, inside the hood where you can't see and inside the A pillars.  Any place where I coulldn't get in to clean up.  Kind of a last resort thing.

There seems to be alot of places that survive outside pretty well, but behind panels have suffered. Like lower rockers between quarter meeting area.
I appreciate the info, I will definitely be getting some

[SmashingPunkFan]

Need info on how to attack this. With my floor pans, more heat and faster speeds overtook voids pretty well. But with the quarter area, aiming to be gentle with heat and excessive warping issues.  How to best avoid the voids in these areas?

The pictures are of the drivers side where the quarter meets the sail panel, pretty close to the fuel fill door area.

[SmashingPunkFan]

Need info on how to attack this. With my floor pans, more heat and faster speeds overtook voids pretty well. But with the quarter area, aiming to be gentle with heat and excessive warping issues.  How to best avoid the voids in these areas?

The pictures are of the drivers side where the quarter meets the sail panel, pretty close to the fuel fill door area.

I'm kinda stuck on this... its time consuming to keep welding areas that are heat sensitive and having them still produce voids.

I could really use some feedback guys

[Bronzedodge]

A few questions - what shield gas are you using?  Argon/CO2 mix?  It's hard to tell with the grinding, but the location of the joint is a bit tricky - top edge.  What size wire are you using?  Something around .024" would be best.  I'd try a different setting on some scrap material.   

[SmashingPunkFan]

A few questions - what shield gas are you using?  Argon/CO2 mix?  It's hard to tell with the grinding, but the location of the joint is a bit tricky - top edge.  What size wire are you using?  Something around .024" would be best.  I'd try a different setting on some scrap material.   

The gas I'm using is argon 75/25 C02
And I have .30 wire

I've had good results throughout my experience with other sections on the car, but this quarter is giving me hell.
If it were a flat floor pan, I'd pilot hole it and turn the heat up. No more voids, but this is sensitive

[green69rt]

Did you use the tack weld method? Put a bunch of tack welds about 4" apart, let it cool then another set of tacks between the first ones, keep doing that till the whole thing is welded.  Even with that method you have to be careful not to get too aggressive with the weld time.

[Troy]

I use .024 wire and still manage to get it too hot. I'm not an expert welder and I have only used .030 wire on frame rails - or parts that weld to frame rails. You need to go glacially slow. If you are butt welding it probably only takes a tap on the trigger to get it hot enough. Space them far apart. Repeat a few thousand times.

Troy

[hemi-hampton]

When you say voids do you mean pin holes in weld or just spots with not enough weld? I go over these pin holes or voids with more weld. From what I can see in this pic of yours you did not have enough heat because the spot weld is balled up high on top of the metal instead of flat resulting in less penetration meaning weaker weld. Meaning harder to grind & harder grinding means more unwanted heat. If your worried about excessive heat, weld it like you did but with more heat, BUT, keep a blowgun plugged in on end of your air hose & cool each little spot weld with cool air after welding. It's slow moving & time consuming but works. LEON.

[Bronzedodge]

I'd recommend going to smaller wire.  Cut up some scrap and do a bit of practice, .024 does have a different feel.  The larger the wire, the more heat you will need.  Some folks cool the welds immediately with a damp cloth or compressed air.   

[SmashingPunkFan]

I'd recommend going to smaller wire.  Cut up some scrap and do a bit of practice, .024 does have a different feel.  The larger the wire, the more heat you will need.  Some folks cool the welds immediately with a damp cloth or compressed air.   

Good info. I have used .30 for the last 5 years, its all I had. I will switch to some smaller wire and give it a shot  thanks guys

[SmashingPunkFan]

https://youtu.be/U7fysrlNStc

New video is up.

[SmashingPunkFan]

A whole new world of problems when I dropped my old suspension.
Any feedback? 😀 I'm actually quite optimistic about this situation, just wanna tackle it soon!

BTW the worst picture is of the passenger side rear k member bolt hole. The fronts of both sides look good, but the drivers side has a small tear in the metal, but still pretty solid.

[JB400]

build you a template off of the k member so you can get your bolt pattern correct, and just weld it back in.  Option b is to replace frame rails.

[SmashingPunkFan]

build you a template off of the k member so you can get your bolt pattern correct, and just weld it back in.  Option b is to replace frame rails.

Cool, cool. Do you by chance have one of the measuring diagrams so I can plumb everything before moving forward?

[SmashingPunkFan]

 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,116416.0/all.html

Any thoughts on this?
Would it be bad if I did this same style repair, but only a foot or so in length? Could the welds support this much pressure?

Need some feedback 😃

[JB400]

build you a template off of the k member so you can get your bolt pattern correct, and just weld it back in.  Option b is to replace frame rails.

Cool, cool. Do you by chance have one of the measuring diagrams so I can plumb everything before moving forward?

Unfortunately,no I do not.  Just lay your k member on a large piece of cardboard, mark out your holes, cut it out, and then bolt your template up to your car, to get the right bolt hole pattern.

[SmashingPunkFan]

build you a template off of the k member so you can get your bolt pattern correct, and just weld it back in.  Option b is to replace frame rails.

Cool, cool. Do you by chance have one of the measuring diagrams so I can plumb everything before moving forward?

Unfortunately,no I do not.  Just lay your k member on a large piece of cardboard, mark out your holes, cut it out, and then bolt your template up to your car, to get the right bolt hole pattern.

I took the leap today...

[hemi-hampton]

I've been gone for awhile. any updates LEON.

[SmashingPunkFan]

I've been gone for awhile. any updates LEON.

Got part of it welded back in

[SmashingPunkFan]

Not a big fan of fluxcore. It welds appear to be flakey until you start grinding on it... Smh.
I know I got it hot enough, I accidentally burned through the frame and new material twice.

[hemi-hampton]

Looks like fun. LEON.

[SmashingPunkFan]

Made progress. Passenger side is complete, and ready for new suspension.

[hemi-hampton]

Looks good, do you have to do the same thing to the other side. LEON.

[SmashingPunkFan]

Looks good, do you have to do the same thing to the other side. LEON.

Thank you sir.
I believe so, it has some similar tears. But they're not nearly as rough as the passenger side was.

Think there's any chance I could just weld it back up as is?

[SmashingPunkFan]

https://youtu.be/45tmELL9fTU
Next section completed.
Moving on...

[tan top]

 

[SmashingPunkFan]

Just an update. Passenger side is complete now. Besides rust at the rear window, I believe I'm done with body panels... I can't believe it.
I do however need the taillight panel, and lower rear valance. They too far gone to try and salvage.
Anyone sell AMD at a discount on here? 😀

[green69rt]

Just an update. Passenger side is complete now. Besides rust at the rear window, I believe I'm done with body panels... I can't believe it.
I do however need the taillight panel, and lower rear valance. They too far gone to try and salvage.
Anyone sell AMD at a discount on here? 😀

Call Jeff at 521restorations, he has a day job so it might take a little time to make connection but he does sell AMD discounted.

http://www.521restorations.com/index.pl?page=home