News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

alternator wiring problems

Started by tucknroll, August 24, 2016, 08:51:49 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

tucknroll

Hey guys, I need help. Sometimes my car has zero power and I wiggle the alternator wire at the bulkhead connector and its fine. I put a new male end on and I think its in the female end side. How can I work on the firewall side of the connection? Thanks

BLK 68 R/T

Use a small flat screwdriver, on the flat side of the connector there should be a little tab that keeps the wire from coming out of the bulkhead. Once you get the tab depressed the wire should easily come out from the backside of the bulkhead and you can work on it. It will probably be easier to unplug all the main harnesses and push the entire bulkhead connector out of the firewall, inside the car so you can get to the wiring on the back side. The bulkhead is held in by the 4 spring clips on the top and bottom of the bulkhead itself.

tucknroll

Thanks! This site has never let me down!

tucknroll

I pulled the whole harness out and worked with it in the floorboard and put it back and same problem.  I guess it's farther back or it's another wire causing it. I'm almost sure it's the alternator wire. I can barley bump it and it gets and loses power. I just leave the door open and watch the dome light go on and off. When it's off, there's no power at all to anything

BLK 68 R/T

So lets take a step back, what kind of car are you working on?

tucknroll


BLK 68 R/T

Ok, so next step would be to verify the fusible link connection and where it goes through the bulkhead. It should be a heavy gauge blue wire coming from the starter solenoid. If that connection checks out good and the fusible link wire is good then check the amp gauge and the connections on the back.

Canadian1968

agreed . I am thinking your problem is sone where between the bulk head and the back of your amp gauge. ALL the power runs threw the amp gauge and splices off from there . I would pull the cluster and check those wires. If it still has all the original there is a good chance they are not in good shape !