Head gaskets and a can of worms...

[myk]

Hey folks, I still haven't gotten the pressure tester I need to verify where exactly from the passenger side head or header the coolant is spraying out of,  but I'm thinking if it comes down to a head gasket issue would I be right in using this opportunity to learn about the internal specs of my engine and maybe change things?  I'm talking about quench measurements, camshaft specs, piston characteristics and things of that nature.  I figure if I need to replace my head gaskets that this would be a chance to try and raise my low CR a bit by using a thinner gasket.   

Again, I'm hoping that this is just a header bolt issue causing the coolant leak but in case I need to pull the heads I'd like to use the chance to change some of the internals for the better.  Am I right in this train of thought or am I opening a can of worms?   As always,  thought and input is appreciated...

[garner7555]

You are thinking correctly, if that is something you want to do.  If you have been wanting to tear into the motor and get a little more power anyway then yes it is a great opportunity.  If you were pleased with the engine as it is then I would get the piston part number while the heads are off and measure piston to deck height and let the Ron and the other experts advise you on other head gaskets and possible head surfacing.  If your willing to pull and disassemble the engine then you might want to surface the block to get better deck height and better quench, as you mentioned.  It's hard to decide until you pull a head and get the piston info and deck height.   

What I'm trying to say is, it's just a choice that only you can make.  How much do you want more performance?

[myk]

You are thinking correctly, if that is something you want to do.  If you have been wanting to tear into the motor and get a little more power anyway then yes it is a great opportunity.  If you were pleased with the engine as it is then I would get the piston part number while the heads are off and measure piston to deck height and let the Ron and the other experts advise you on other head gaskets and possible head surfacing.  If your willing to pull and disassemble the engine then you might want to surface the block to get better deck height and better quench, as you mentioned.  It's hard to decide until you pull a head and get the piston info and deck height.   

What I'm trying to say is, it's just a choice that only you can make.  How much do you want more performance?

If it comes to pulling the heads I'm not looking to add performance, rather gain some of it back.  My motor's a low comp thing although I'm not sure by how much.  I figure if I have to put new head gaskets on why not learn about the motor's internals and bump up the CR a bit...

[heyoldguy]

When you open up the engine, the open can of worms always comes with it.

[Challenger340]

Yep, "can of worms" trying for piece meal performance gains if it is a low-pop deal ?

Nothing wrong(if you have to pull the heads) in verifying the low-pop Pistons if that is what you find ? Nonetheless, if you do ?
IMO,
think very carefully at that point about just replacing the gaskets and buttoning it back up at that point, then saving the bucks for a later time frame, when it can be done complete and "properly".

[garner7555]

I agree with what the others said.  If you only looking to get it back to factory performance levels then you might consider leaving the bottom end as is (low compression Pistons) and adding aftermarket closed chamber heads to bump up compression.     not saying that's the best option but it could be one.   That decision would need to be made after the head was removed so that all the current parts could be verified.   

[Challenger340]

I agree with what the others said.  If you only looking to get it back to factory performance levels then you might consider leaving the bottom end as is (low compression Pistons) and adding aftermarket closed chamber heads to bump up compression.     not saying that's the best option but it could be one.   That decision would need to be made after the head was removed so that all the current parts could be verified.   

While you can most certainly add aftermarket closed chamber heads to bump compression..... remember, no head chamber(closed or otherwise), can move a Piston that is 1/8" DOWN the hole any closer to Deck at TDC(plus gasket thickness as well ?).... means quench and any Cam overlap efficiencies are also diminished.
IMO,
Just diminished returns/expectations versus money spent ?.... no matter what you do on those Pistons ?

[crj1968]

Leave it as is- find another motor to build the way you like and swap it in next winter?

That way you still have your car to enjoy.       

[lukedukem]

Leave it as is- find another motor to build the way you like and swap it in next winter?

That way you still have your car to enjoy.       

Yeah, what he said.

Luke

[Dino]

You probably just have a loose header bolt. You replaced the headers not that long ago and they can definitely back off a bit if you didn't re-torque them initially. Drain some (or all) of the coolant, remove each bolt one by one and screw them back in with a dab of Permatex ultra copper on the threads. Snug them down and let them be overnight. Next day add coolant and torque the bolts to spec. Take the car for a run for a good 45 minutes or more, let it cool down and re-torque. I try to do that twice actually.

Once you open the big engine can of worms you'll end up with a parts car like most of us.   

If you want performance you can build another engine as suggested but then you open up that other can of worms when you go do the swap and you notice the car needs more work. That stuff just never ends.   

If you are enjoying your car as it is, minus the coolant leak, then I say let sleeping dogs lie and enjoy it. I'd give my left nut to be able to drive my car again.   

[PlainfieldCharger]

Probably a header bolt so fix the leak build different motor while your driving.... It will keep you moving forward on the car with your suspension upgrades too!