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Hurst shifter teardown, cleaning and reassembly...with pictures!

Started by AKcharger, July 18, 2012, 10:26:48 PM

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AKcharger

I dissembled my 4 speed shifter to clean and inspect it and didn't recall seeing any posts about it, so here it is!

My shifter was in good shape, but after 40 years it has that dirt/grease "grinding" noise I couldn't put it in like that. Brewers wanted $200 for a rebuild so I did it my self. I saw Brewers had a rebuild kit but my shims and everything were in good shape...didn't need it. it's pretty simple and now it's super smooth  :icon_smile_tongue:

1) For disassembly:
 a) remove rods ( I took a picture of 'em to make sure I put 'em back right)
 b) remove the trans mount plate and the rear cover which pries out
 c) remove shift bridge pivot bolt plate  held on with 5/16 nut (no need to remove the long bolt just the plate)
 d) Push out large pin going through case and shifter guys
 e) CAREFULLY slide mechanism from housing


2) "unstack" levers being careful not to mix 'em up, especially the shims


3) Clean, inspect and apply very light coat of grease to levers and shims...reinstall in reverse order


All done! I did notice I'm missing the bottom dust cover...Brewers has 'em for $7




440

Too easy... Mine has a bit of slop so I'll probably need a rebuild kit. I read somewhere about some plastic bushings that wear :confused:? Are they in the levers? I think I see them (white) in your front on picture

I might have to read up on it again

AKcharger

Here ya go

There are plastic bushings on each end of the rod (at shifter and trans) one other thing to consider in sloppiness is the retainers (at left in photo). The factory ones are designed to not only hold the lever on the rod, but they also "push" the lever arm tight against the rod via spring tension. A lot of times the springs have been replaced with regular cotter pins making the lever arms loose...in fact, take another look at the 2nd picture below. Look at the middle rod, it's held in with a regular cotter pin, see how it's like hanging out??



resq302

excellent write up!!!!!   :2thumbs:   Do you have any part numbers for the rebuild kit from Brewers?  Im sure mine could use a good rebuild!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

440

It is far more simple than I would have thought. This is what I could come up with. I don't see the bushings as a separate part though. I do remember reading somewhere about replacement bushings offered in both plastic and brass I believe, although they didn't recommend the brass units for street application.

Might be worthwhile to try and have some made out of Delrin.

http://brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=132

69rtse4spd


AKcharger

I'd recommend disassembly and inspection before getting the rebuild kit. If shims look bad you can order them separate or go to a metal shop, get a piece of .008, .015 and .040 shim, cut 'em to shape and save $$. Oh, one thing...I did not take the bottom assembly apart, I could clean it just as all well with it together and saw no need.

Brightyellow69rtse

excellent i think ill redo mine at some point. im sure it could use a little love.

71bee

Thanks for posting! I haven't felt the need just yet to tear my shifter apart, but I'll keep this post in mind if/when the time comes.

440

Far out these are expensive shifters.. Thank god the previous owner bought it instead of me... $700 for a complete package  :o

Anyone have any experience between the plastic bushings and the stainless steel ones ?

Supercharged Riot

THanks for posting!
i always appreciate people posting up good tutorials
It helps everyone

AKcharger