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What would you pay?

Started by Sugardemon, June 08, 2016, 06:49:10 PM

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Sugardemon

I have perused the 38 pages from the thread "Delusional Charger Sellers" and the plethora of opinions on value.   I need opinions on value and why. 

If you were buying a fairly original 69-70 Charger RT (4 sp, non-matching numbers motor) that had nice quality interior and a decent underside but needed (1)extensive body panel/pan replacement, (2) a "good" paint job, (3) vinyl top, (4) chrome restoration/replacement, rubber seals, little stuff, etc BUT is a solid driver, what would be a fair price range?.... AND considering that I'd be paying someone else to do the work?  I'm turning 60 and have no interest in monkeying with this stuff anymore.

It'll never be a matching numbers car and I'm not looking for a rotisserie restoration, just a good looking weekend driver.

What's a fair price, considering I have to pay someone to do most of the work?

funknut

Hard to tell without pictures.  "Extensive body panel replacement" could mean $3k or $10k+. 

Whether you do the work or not doesn't mean a thing to the seller.  Value of the car as it sits is the same irrespective of who's doing the work. 

Pretty much everyone here will tell you to buy the most complete car you can, because you'll likely never recoup what it cost to restore.   :Twocents:

1970Moparmann

Quote from: Sugardemon on June 08, 2016, 06:49:10 PM
(1)extensive body panel/pan replacement, (2) a "good" paint job, (3) vinyl top, (4) chrome restoration/replacement, rubber seals, little stuff, etc BUT is a solid driver

Unfortunately your not painting a good picture with this car.   Did you check out the frame rails?    If the frame rails have to be replaced, this is going to bump up your restoration cost fairly good.

Based on what you said, if I were in your shoes, I would buy a "good" car and start driving it right away.   If it needs all the work that you describe, that could be a multiple year project.   I think you would be better off getting a "done" car.   Just my 2 cents.
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

Mytur Binsdirti

Quote from: Sugardemon on June 08, 2016, 06:49:10 PM
I have perused the 38 pages from the thread "Delusional Charger Sellers" and the plethora of opinions on value.   I need opinions on value and why.  

If you were buying a fairly original 69-70 Charger RT (4 sp, non-matching numbers motor) that had nice quality interior and a decent underside but needed (1)extensive body panel/pan replacement, (2) a "good" paint job, (3) vinyl top, (4) chrome restoration/replacement, rubber seals, little stuff, etc BUT is a solid driver, what would be a fair price range?.... AND considering that I'd be paying someone else to do the work?  I'm turning 60 and have no interest in monkeying with this stuff anymore.

It'll never be a matching numbers car and I'm not looking for a rotisserie restoration, just a good looking weekend driver.

What's a fair price, considering I have to pay someone to do most of the work?


If you just want to get in and drive, you are far better off paying 40-45 large up front now for a done 383 car, that is assuming that you have the funds to do so. If you buy something that needs work, you are going to get to that figure and beyond anyway. They are out there in that price range, but it seems that the real nice ones are few and far between.


If you would consider an A body Mopar, this one looks fairly clean...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-Barracuda-Formula-S-/252414779864?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3ac517e1d8:g:7PIAAOSwepJXVICc&item=252414779864

ht4spd307

Quote from: Sugardemon on June 08, 2016, 06:49:10 PM
I have perused the 38 pages from the thread "Delusional Charger Sellers" and the plethora of opinions on value.   I need opinions on value and why.  

If you were buying a fairly original 69-70 Charger RT (4 sp, non-matching numbers motor) that had nice quality interior and a decent underside but needed (1)extensive body panel/pan replacement, (2) a "good" paint job, (3) vinyl top, (4) chrome restoration/replacement, rubber seals, little stuff, etc BUT is a solid driver, what would be a fair price range?.... AND considering that I'd be paying someone else to do the work?  I'm turning 60 and have no interest in monkeying with this stuff anymore.

It'll never be a matching numbers car and I'm not looking for a rotisserie restoration, just a good looking weekend driver.

What's a fair price, considering I have to pay someone to do most of the work?
how do you get an extensive panel/pan replacement car with a decent underside & good paint job  :paintingpink: :buff: sorry for my stupidity but that wont add up in my head

crj1968

If you don't care about numbers- you could find a $20K plain jane driver and clone it into an RT for much less money and headache.

I paid $15K for my 70. Needs no major body work....engine and trans, etc.. were included but not installed...has a good interior, I've spent maybe another $1500 just putting it back together.
Now I'm driving it !

Sugardemon

 how do you get an extensive panel/pan replacement car with a decent underside & good paint job  :paintingpink: :buff: sorry for my stupidity but that wont add up in my head
[/quote]

Sorry, I didn't really clarify.  Rails, cross membrers and floor pans are acceptable and solid.  Trunk pan and both rear quarters are rotted and need replacement, as well as front fenders.  Inner fender wells are ____??????  And it doesn't have a good paint job, it would need one.

crj1968

You did say it had a decent underside....

So solid driver, 440 - 4 speed R/T that needs a lot of body work and all the odds and ends  :scratchchin: 

I'd say 15-20K, with planning on dropping another 10k into it. 




Homerr

I'd say more like $18-22k in this market.  And then there is the $30k tear it down to nothing and rebuild it farming out the paint/body motor.  Or, let's say, another $60k to have someone do everything for you.  And add a year or three.

I'd say look around for a ~$50k finished car and ante up.

Hadn't this one been converted from auto?
http://www.oldcaronline.com/1970-Dodge-Charger-Charlotte-North%20Carolina-for-sale-ID714876.htm

Sugardemon

I know a trustworthy paint and body man who would likely take it on as a side project for probably 10-12K labor plus parts and paint but he would have to take care of his regular repeat customers on a timely basis (of course) and work on this car in his spare time....so it would probably a 18-24 mo project. 

I hear everyone that says buy one already restored but it's not like there are hundreds out there to choose from.  Especially if you're wanting a certain color combo.

70 sublime

Quote from: Sugardemon on June 08, 2016, 10:04:37 PM
I know a trustworthy paint and body man who would likely take it on as a side project for probably 10-12K labor plus parts and paint but he would have to take care of his regular repeat customers on a timely basis (of course) and work on this car in his spare time....so it would probably a 18-24 mo project. 

I hear everyone that says buy one already restored but it's not like there are hundreds out there to choose from.  Especially if you're wanting a certain color combo.

Bad idea to take it some place as the work on it when we have nothing else to do kind of job
Have you had a car restored at this place you talk about in this manner before ??
Lots of parts will get lost and always take at least twice as long as you hope or promised it would take to get done

next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

crj1968

If it's not a numbers matching car in the first place, and you just are looking for a cool driver, then you can do any color combo you like. no?   :shruggy:

Mike DC

QuoteI hear everyone that says buy one already restored but it's not like there are hundreds out there to choose from.  Especially if you're wanting a certain color combo.


:Twocents:

Buy a 318 VIN car already restored.  Then spend even more money and repaint it & change the drivetrain as needed.  


Believe it or not, you will probably STILL come out ahead compared to a body resto of any kind.  The time delays & spiraling costs of that stuff cannot be overstated.  


ht4spd307

Quote from: Sugardemon on June 08, 2016, 09:02:11 PM
how do you get an extensive panel/pan replacement car with a decent underside & good paint job  :paintingpink: :buff: sorry for my stupidity but that wont add up in my head

Sorry, I didn't really clarify.  Rails, cross membrers and floor pans are acceptable and solid.  Trunk pan and both rear quarters are rotted and need replacement, as well as front fenders.  Inner fender wells are ____??????  And it doesn't have a good paint job, it would need one.

[/quote] no sorry my mistake i read it wrong  BUT MY ADVICE RUN :leaving:

Chargerguy74

Quote from: 1970Moparmann on June 08, 2016, 07:18:31 PM
Quote from: Sugardemon on June 08, 2016, 06:49:10 PM
(1)extensive body panel/pan replacement, (2) a "good" paint job, (3) vinyl top, (4) chrome restoration/replacement, rubber seals, little stuff, etc BUT is a solid driver

Unfortunately your not painting a good picture with this car.   Did you check out the frame rails?    If the frame rails have to be replaced, this is going to bump up your restoration cost fairly good.

Based on what you said, if I were in your shoes, I would buy a "good" car and start driving it right away.   If it needs all the work that you describe, that could be a multiple year project.   I think you would be better off getting a "done" car.   Just my 2 cents.

I agree with this
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

myk

Pictures of the car, or we might as well be talking about what Scarlett Johannsen looks like naked: a total fantasy for most of us...

Brock Lee

Quote from: Sugardemon on June 08, 2016, 10:04:37 PM
I know a trustworthy paint and body man who would likely take it on as a side project for probably 10-12K labor plus parts and paint

That means it will end up being $18-20K in labor and paint. It is the nature of the body guy to shoot below the final amount. Shit, so much time will elapse by the time its done, inflation will play a role in the final price...

Quote from: Sugardemon on June 08, 2016, 10:04:37 PM
but he would have to take care of his regular repeat customers on a timely basis (of course) and work on this car in his spare time....so it would probably a 18-24 mo project.  

Add another 12 months on that, and if you push him to stay on that original budget, expect it to sit long periods without being touched. Chunks of years will fly by without anything being done. They work on the money coming in right now, not what they were paid for in the past or even in a distant future.

Quote from: Sugardemon on June 08, 2016, 10:04:37 PM
I hear everyone that says buy one already restored but it's not like there are hundreds out there to choose from.  Especially if you're wanting a certain color combo.

Yes, there are hundreds to choose from. They are out there. Bank the cash. Open a savings account with the money you have for a rot box turd right now. Rather than make payments while visiting a car you can't drive for 2-3 years, add that money to the savings account. Tweak your color combination expectations and be open to possibly painting down the road. Once you have enough cash to buy one road worthy NOW, go shopping. You will get far more for your money than pissing it away having all the body work outsourced. You will end up buying a car from a guy that did what you are thinking..he may get most of the parts and resto money back and lose what he paid for the car..plus years of wasted time waiting for the car to be done..you buy it, turn the key and enjoy for none of the hassle and a fraction of the cost.

Chargerguy74

Quote from: myk on June 09, 2016, 01:45:27 AM
Pictures of the car, or we might as well be talking about what Scarlett Johannsen looks like naked: a total fantasy for most of us...

not for me...
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

myk


Chargerguy74

LOL, no, good looking gal for sure. Saw the hacked pics way back when. She just never really did much for me.

Sorry for the derail.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

Polygon

QuoteBuy a 318 VIN car already restored.  Then spend even more money and repaint it & change the drivetrain as needed. 

Believe it or not, you will probably STILL come out ahead compared to a body resto of any kind.  The time delays & spiraling costs of that stuff cannot be overstated.


This sold for a pretty penny, not an R/T or 4 speed, but an idea of the market. I think it was a good price.
http://carsonline-ads.com/colsite/col?use=UC3_ViewPosting&cmd=showPosting&postingID=81741

www.lostinspaceforum.com

If you like the old TV show, Lost In Space, check out my page

c00nhunterjoe

If the 1/4s and trunk are gone, i bet the frame is too. Might not be showing on the outside, but when you cut whats left of the trunk out, you will find the inner side of the rails rotted as well.

Homerr

Quote from: myk on June 09, 2016, 01:45:27 AM
Pictures of the car, or we might as well be talking about what Scarlett Johannsen looks like naked: a total fantasy for most of us...

BTW, there is this thing called the "internet".  It has nekkid pitchurs of her.

myk

What I mean to say is that none of us will ever able to get her naked IN PERSON; f**k the internet...

cbrestorations

Skimmed thru all the blah blah blah and still no pics?