High output at idle alternator needed

[cavemanno1]

Hi guys!

I'm looking for a high output alternator at idle for my '66 big block car that have a direct bracket fit!
Does anyone could recommend me any of them?

Thank you!

Peter

[rebby]

I'm using a Tuff Stuff 8123. This is a direct drop in replacement unit that puts out 100a. Tuff Stuff has a number of other options as well, some drop in, some not but I think 100a is their largest Mopar option.

There are a few options from Powermaster as well. I ran their 140a unit in my other Charger but that did require some bracket modification to clear the fan. Supposedly their 200a unit drops right in though. Hopefully somebody who is running one of these will be able to comment.

I'm sure that there are other alternatives out there as well. These are the only 2 that I have direct experience with (at the moment anyway).

[John_Kunkel]

I'm running the 150-amp version of this:

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_557/Chrysler-Mount-Mega-Amp-Alternator.htm

Never drops below 14 volts at idle with everything on.

[mopar0166]

h/o one wire power master

[Nacho-RT74]

Rebby and JK... Can you post pics of those in your engine bay?

[rebby]

Rebby and JK... Can you post pics of those in your engine bay?

Mine is really tough to see due to my heater & A/C lines. Here are a few pics where you can get the general idea.











There are quite a few other pics in my GL build thread where you can get a few more peeks at it.

[John_Kunkel]

Kinda hard to get a pic without hoses obscuring the view.

[Nacho-RT74]

Rebby and JK... Can you post pics of those in your engine bay?

Mine is really tough to see due to my heater & A/C lines. Here are a few pics where you can get the general idea.











There are quite a few other pics in my GL build thread where you can get a few more peeks at it.

Ok I can't catch If with stator center piece visible in between back and front housings, just like those years were! Of course I would go natural finish.

USUALLY high output Mopar alts are assemblied into the laters housings like this



Note the stator center section is not visible, but hidden by the laters 70s alt casing desing, and I'm imterested on get a high outputs alt built into this housing




It seems your black unit its like this one ?

[rebby]

Yeah that almost looks like a natural version of mine. I can take a few more (cramped) pics if you'd like. Any specific angles that you'd like to see?

[funknut]

It may be obvious to most, but make sure you don't have an under-drive crank pulley.

One of several things that led to my charging problems was the under-drive pulley.

[cavemanno1]

What is under drive pulley?Also why there is a single and a double crank pulley alternators?Which one I need,single or double?I'm about to buy what Rebby suggested but don't know if I have to buy a single pulley one or a double pulley one now!And single wire double wire,which one?

Thanks,

[cavemanno1]

Ok just learned that I need a single pulley one since I have no a/c.So Rebby's one is no good for me!

[1974dodgecharger]

highqualitypower.com will give you enough juice to power a house  

powers my car just fine.....I have more electric stuff than most people that drive our old cars.

[lukedukem]

Bet that car would scream with eight plug wires. 

Caveman, I have a dense 120 amp I bought from Mancini racing, single pulley, Comes with all the brackets for a big block. Pm me if interested

Luke

[1974dodgecharger]

Bet that car would scream with eight plug wires. 

Caveman, I have a dense 120 amp I bought from Mancini racing, single pulley, Comes with all the brackets for a big block. Pm me if interested

Luke

lmao......

[cavemanno1]

Bet that car would scream with eight plug wires. 

Caveman, I have a dense 120 amp I bought from Mancini racing, single pulley, Comes with all the brackets for a big block. Pm me if interested

Luke

Pm sent!
So can someone tell me the difference between the single and dual wire ones ?Which one I need?

Thanks,

Peter

[funknut]

1-wire alternators are internally regulated (no additional voltage regulator required) and will require you to bypass/remove the firewall voltage regulator.  Typically they are wired directly to the battery positive, a positive distribution block or a lot of people run them to the positive post on the starter relay.

There are single-field and dual-field alternators as well.  These are externally regulated.

Single-field alternators are stock-style and will use the same wiring as your stock alternator.

Dual-field alternators have a second field terminal that can be wired to ground.

As to which one is best, they all work fine.  1-wire alternators are interesting because they simplify wiring.

Pm sent!
So can someone tell me the difference between the single and dual wire ones ?Which one I need?

Thanks,

Peter

[cavemanno1]

Thanks!So if I buy a 1-wire alternator I won't have to buy voltage regulator?What's the benefit of then running a 2 wire alternator?My alternator I have now is externally regulated as I have 3 wires coming out of it.1 thick positive and 2 thin ones .Any idea why there are 3 not just 2?
If I buy a 2 wire alternator then I have to buy a voltage regulator as well or could use the one I have now?Or it's better to get brand new ones?

Thanks,

Peter

[funknut]

If you don't care about stock appearance or stock function, I would just go with a 1-wire alternator.

Without seeing pics, my guess is the 3-wire alternator has the positive charge wire and 2 field terminals.

Automotive voltage regulators all do basically the same thing, so if yours is working then you shouldn't need another one.

There's some good info on this site that can get you started on the advantages and disadvantages of various configurations:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

[cavemanno1]

Thank you!

On That website they say the 3 wire alternator is the superior to the 1 wire one!

[Nacho-RT74]

Yeah that almost looks like a natural version of mine. I can take a few more (cramped) pics if you'd like. Any specific angles that you'd like to see?

you meant the first or the second one I posted ? I'm whiching one like the chroemd one but of course natural finish.

just wishing a nice clear pic of a side view to check how is the housing. with stator center section hidden or visible

I pretty much requested a pic on a old thread ( same than today ) of this to make sure the seller ( which I think it was also tuff stuff ) makes the one I want/need, but at this moment can't recall if it was Tuff-stuff or any other.

Why this is important to me ? more than the correct loot itself ( which is also important to me ) the first one I posted got a wider housing, maybe 1,5 or 2 milimeters ( maybe a bit more ? ) and this make the alt rear hosuing meeting the block, so needs to get a longer belt set up to get the alt away from block. Longer belts makes more slapping, which is critical on when turning on the A/C.

The second one I posted, with stator center visible between both alt housings, SHOULD BE the same width than stock replacement ones for our cars

[John_Kunkel]

Thank you!

On That website they say the 3 wire alternator is the superior to the 1 wire one!

The 1-wire lacks the ability to control the voltage according to the temperature, external regulators do have that ability.

[cavemanno1]

Is this one good for me?Doesn't say 1 wire or 3 wire one or single field or double field,only that it's internally regulated!
Could you guys tell me if this is effiecent for me application.Only wanna run a radio/cd player and put h4 head light later on.

Thanks,

Peter

[Nacho-RT74]

You meed the max output at iddling as posible to be sure will fill the car demands at that stance...  revving up won't matter since any alt is able to feed the car demands, the problem is iddling. I personally proposse an alt able to give 50-55 amps iddling ( what doesn't mean will give that allways, just if car needs it )

[cavemanno1]

Thanks!
There are so many to choose from but most of them don't state what type they are.Some only says either it's internal regulated or externally but no mentioning if it's 1 wire or 3 wire,single or dual field.
Non of them says how much the amp they have at idle.

What I don't understand why there are so many different parts for the same car?And this is true for every parts I searched for so far,that you have so many of them but not all are correct.
Oh well,I pick one and hope for the best.
If I were in the States I'd not care so much but 6000 miles away it's not so easy.

Thanks for the help guys!

[ChargerRT69]

highqualitypower.com will give you enough juice to power a house  

powers my car just fine.....I have more electric stuff than most people that drive our old cars.

1974dodgecharger, Looking on the Quality Powers website (http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_557/Chrysler-Mount-Mega-Amp-Alternator.htm), which amp model did you go with?


Amperages Available
150 Amp max -- 120 amp idle
200 Amp max -- 140 amp idle
250 Amp max -- 160 amp idle
320 Amp max -- 180 amp idle

Regulator Options:
Externally regulated- for use with single field regulator
Externally regulated- for use with dual field regulator
1-Wire regulator
Heavy duty regulator with harness

I am also looking for a High Output alternator as I am looking at going EFI with FiTech and the one thing that comes up occasionally with most EFI is low voltage issue. I am still debating whether to do clutch fan or electrics as well, I will have a electric in the tank fuel pump and converting a lot of my lights over to LED. Other electric devices, I am not completely sure.

Anybody else has suggestions or comments, please offer them up.

Car is a 69 Charger R/T with 440.