My disk brake swap with susp. and steering upgrade. UPDATE 7/21/16 pg. 7

[cdr]

[303 Mopar]

This is a pic of the Hotchkis sway bar on my Cuda.  You can see that it is tighten just so when the bushings start to bulge as CDR mentioned.

[lukedukem]

ah, thanks for the pics guys. it really helps.

Luke

[lukedukem]

ok, got that finished. now time to bleed the brakes. went pretty easy, I used the gravity method and also used the bottle method. I bought a kit from AutoZone, its a bottle that the tube goes into the bottom and it is always covered by fluid, you can then pump the brakes real slow and it pumps out air and sucks in the fluid. eventually the bottle gets full, empty some out and repeat.

but when I got to the front I had this to deal with, I checked every bolt twice on my suspension , forgo to check the distribution block.

Luke

[lukedukem]

then it was time to tighten all the UCA and LCA bolts after getting the ride height I wanted. that sucked. but its done.

then I needed to set the toe, I didn't have any help for the tape method so I used the string method, not sure how accurate it is but it sounded good. you set a string from the rear to the front, tight,  and measure the two points on the back rim to the string, get them the same, then in theory, you can use this as a strait edge. measure front rim to string and adjust toe.

Luke

[cdr]

     now you can get it aligned , good job.

[lukedukem]

   now you can get it aligned , good job.

yep...

once I got that toe done it was time to test the brakes. I took it in my hood, and they seemed to work great. I took it on the side road at 60mph, and they stopped good at that too. the front holds good. I cant believe it, they work, I even used the drum booster with the MC from that disk swap, saved me a bunch. lol
the car drives and handles great, that new sway bar is great. I wanted to keep going but after testing brakes I know I still need to get an alignment this week.
thanks to everyone that helped me on the way. hopefully  this will be it for a while. lol
my final test is the drive to my home town 51 miles away for the fireworks this weekend and small family car show. I will be the only mopar, I need to represent

pic....

[b5blue]

 

[303 Mopar]

Great work, congrats!  Height looks good!   

[garner7555]

Awesome!

[funknut]

Nice!  Ride height looks perfect to me.

[lukedukem]

Thanks for the compliments guys.
Got the radio back in and working, old pioneer unit and 6x9 in package tray.
Need to try to rig up the hood blinkers. I have housing and lens but the socket and wires are missing.

I'm gonna see if anyone wants any old parts. funknut, I know you where interested in something. Send me a PM on what it was.

Luke

[garner7555]

Here is a cheaper alternative to getting those hood turn signals working.     Should be brighter too with LEDs.       I ordered this but haven't installed it yet. 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,122960.msg1549685.html#msg1549685

[lukedukem]

Here is a cheaper alternative to getting those hood turn signals working.     Should be brighter too with LEDs.       I ordered this but haven't installed it yet. 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,122960.msg1549685.html#msg1549685

I saw that thread, i have the original housings, not sure if that will work, but i will look into it, thanks

Luke

[abe1968]

LookS great! I just finished my disc swap and the difference was night and day. I don't know why I ever waited so long to do this.

[lukedukem]

LookS great! I just finished my disc swap and the difference was night and day. I don't know why I ever waited so long to do this.

I don't know why ki waited either. Wait, money. That's was why. Lol

Luke

[b5blue]

  me to.

[abe1968]

LookS great! I just finished my disc swap and the difference was night and day. I don't know why I ever waited so long to do this.

I don't know why ki waited either. Wait, money. That's was why. Lol

Luke

So true!

[moparnut]

Did this swap using the manual front disc swap.Have been trying to find out about the proportioning valve that was used when swapping.Did everyone use the stock proportioning valve or go after market.My brakes were never power brakes.  moparnut

[b5blue]

  My 70 had power 10" drum. I converted to manual by just removing booster and changing linkage. (Worked fine.) When I swapped to factory 11 3/4" disk I used a new ASPEN master and an adjustable valve to the line running to the rears. (Again still works fine.)
  I don't think the stock lines and stuff need any extra changing, just to be in good shape. Add the rear prop. valve and change out the front. (Your distribution block works the same.)

[moparnut]

Thanks B5 blue.Been reading alot about the conversions, but could not find anything about the proportioning valve used. moparnut

[b5blue]

I found an NOS old school Mopar Prop. V. a big brass affair on eBay for cheap. I'd put off conversion so long I replaced all lines and hoses at the same time just to be certain brakes were 100%. I've yet to go out in the rain to play with exact proportioning adjustment but it's close after a few tests. Don't over complicate things, use a kit with everything ready and it will be easy.

[lukedukem]

Update: after my trip, which was 140 miles round trip, I noticed a noise when I'd go over bumps. Like a knock/bump front end area. It stopped when I used the brakes. So I jacked it up and removed the tires and found that the two bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle where loose, allowing it to rattle until I applied the brakes. I did tightend them up, but I was wondering what, if anything, should I put on them to prevent that. I can't remember if I ever torqued them down, I guess I didn't because 140 miles they shouldn't have backed out.

Luke

[funknut]

Blue loctite or equivalent should do the trick. 

[b5blue]

Just yesterday I got under the front end and checked all the nuts and bolts. Sure enough some were not as tight as I recalled. Get under there and check even stuff ya didn't work on.