My disk brake swap with susp. and steering upgrade. UPDATE 7/21/16 pg. 7

[lukedukem]

Thanks Neal. When any of you guys did this, did you use any type of neverseize. And should I be using grease as well

Luke

[lukedukem]

what kind of grease are you putting in the balljoints zerks.

Luke

[cdr]

any chassis lube is good, also, only tighten the upper control arm adjuster bolts when car is at ride height, same for the lower arm going through the k frame.

[lukedukem]

any chassis lube is good, also, only tighten the upper control arm adjuster bolts when car is at ride height, same for the lower arm going through the k frame.

Thanks, that's was my next question.

Luke

[cdr]

the upper a arm adjusters go in from the inside,,, so the nut is on the engine compartment side.  I have seen many that are wrong & it makes it hard to tighten them correctly.

[lukedukem]

On the lower control arms, I have a tool that helped remove the shaft from the bushing in the arm, but can't figure out how to use it to push it back in. I have a press at work I can use, but before I do that I was wondering about greasing these up to help them slide in better. Would that be OK to do.
I have my uppers painted and drying. Just need to get the lowers figured out and I can start going back together with everything.

Luke

[cdr]

i put a little grease on to help the pressing on.

[lukedukem]

ok, so I went to put the new bushings in the upper control arms and had them all painted up but didn't realize I needed to remove the old metal outside part of the bushing, my fault, I didn't read up on that. so I started to do that and had success on three of the four. on number 4 I was cutting a relief cut and went down to far. is this still usable, once I got through the metal bushing it just slipped down fast. I don't have my caliper to mic it to see if it opened up the hole bigger. I'm getting a beer and shower, then sleep time  
Luke

[b5blue]

Aw crap...get that welded back. 

[lukedukem]

You think if I weld it up it will work. I'm worried about it being open more

Luke

[b5blue]

You could tack weld the edges of the new bushing, some do that anyway.

[lukedukem]

oh yeah.. I also thought about using a hose clamp to kinda bring the gap together some, then weld it... that should do. just need to find those measure tools I have to get as close as possible to the other side...

Luke

[lukedukem]

OK, so I'm putting together my tie rods and the sleeves and noticed that the sleeves on the ones i removed are a bit shorter than the moog ones. should i just try to get them to measure out the same overall length? I'm not sure how to go about getting it close to where it was so that its easier to align. in the first pic its hard to tell but the red line indicates the sleeves and the new ones are about .5 inch longer. I'm not sure why the ones i removed where so far adjusted inward, on both sides. is that normal?
second pic is just a pic of my car without anything under front. i was staring at it last night remembering what it was like to drive it... 

Luke

[cdr]

go for total length.   

[myk]

OK, so I'm putting together my tie rods and the sleeves and noticed that the sleeves on the ones i removed are a bit shorter than the moog ones. should i just try to get them to measure out the same overall length? I'm not sure how to go about getting it close to where it was so that its easier to align. in the first pic its hard to tell but the red line indicates the sleeves and the new ones are about .5 inch longer. I'm not sure why the ones i removed where so far adjusted inward, on both sides. is that normal?
second pic is just a pic of my car without anything under front. i was staring at it last night remembering what it was like to drive it... 

Luke

Nothing good comes easy so hang in there.  The shop that did my Hotchkis TVS install had the damn car for three weeks; suspension work can be tricky...

[lukedukem]

bit of progress... i got the LCAs installed last night. i left the shaft nut that goes into the K member finger tight. i torqued down the strut rod in the LCA and K member. i only mocked up the shock, the reason is i lost one of the bolts. could i get these at auto-zone, or lowes. not sure what kind they are or if a special bolt is needed? i have one of the two so i can match it up

Luke

[myk]

Just make sure it's grade 8 if you do...

[lukedukem]

Yeah, no parts store had them. Home Depot didn't either. But we have this place called Gulf Bolt Supply. They had it, back in biz. Not tonight though, I'm on baby watch while the wife goes to grocery store. 

Luke

[myk]

Kudos to you and your efforts sir...

[lukedukem]

thanks for the kind words myk.

this is where I'm at after today, I have the driver side UCA in but hand tight, and the ball joint torqued. I installed the disk spindle and was gonna mock up the caliper bracket but I am missing bolts. now I looked at the pieces I have left and no bolts I have match the holes in red. the other big bolts holding the disk spindle to the LCA where from the drum spindle, same position. there where 4 total bolts holding the drum assembly to the drum spindle, but the other two are to small for the threaded holes to hold the brackets on. maybe dr. diff didn't ship them with the brackets, I guess I have to wait till Monday. pics...

Luke

[lukedukem]

Never mind. I found them. They where packed with the bearings. All taped up in the box labeled bearings, weird.

Luke

[lukedukem]

This is where I'm at as of 4pm today... I need to stop for the day and get in some father daughter time, lol.
I have everything torqued down. I just need to grease the bearings then put them in the rotors and install the rotors, then the calipers and brake lines. oh and the torsion bars for last and front sway bar. I have the sway bar mocked up but the directions say the have the car on the ground when installing, which I am assuming its easier to button everything up. on the torsion bars, I have the height screws allthe way out, they are about  to fall out of the lca, where is a good place to start as far as how much to run them up. I was thinking half way? then depending on the ride height, I can adjust from there. when do I tighten the UCA cam bolts and that LCA rod nut?
sorry for all the questions at once, im in the home stretch. well I still have to bench bleed the MC and install the new lines... pics...

Luke

[cdr]

after the ride height is set then tighten everything.

[b5blue]

Looking good Luke!  1/2 way is good starting point, grease the threads and contact points. Lower easy and check if the chassis drops too low crank them up more without full weight on them...they lower okay but up is a lot of stress if very far. It's all going to "settle in" so do not worry about exact, it will change as soon as the car moves 5 feet. It will change after first trip around the block and after each adjusting so be ready to repeat until it's where you want it.

[303 Mopar]

Great work!  The front sway is a piece of cake to install.  Take your time setting ride height.  Mine changed up to a 1/2" after driving around the block.  Once you have it exactly where you want it, take it in for an alignment.