My disk brake swap with susp. and steering upgrade. UPDATE 7/21/16 pg. 7

[Derwud]

You don't have to buy Hotchkis, there are cheaper replacements out there that would be better than stock.. My thought is, arms $ + ball joints $ + bushings may almost equal aftermarket arms $$$$....

[garner7555]

You don't have to buy Hotchkis, there are cheaper replacements out there that would be better than stock.. My thought is, arms $ + ball joints $ + bushings may almost equal aftermarket arms $$$$....

I agree.  Here are some that I have ordered about 5 years ago.  They came in a Magnum Force box and papers, just cheaper to order through POL.   
https://www.performanceonline.com/1962-74-Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler-Mopar-B-and-E-Body-Tubular-Upper-Control-Arm-Set/

[myk]

That's a great price for UCA's.  I think stock pieces would cost you the same and wouldn't give you the positive caster adjustment that is sorely lacking on the stock arms...

[lukedukem]

good news, my UCAs are still good. took them to show a mopar guru here in town and he has seen worse. didn't get much done last night except i removed the torsion bars. i have to confess, that wasn't that bad. i had a removal tool and gave it a couple hits with a 4lb sledge, and they came out. i did get some goodies in the mail too. pics

Luke

[lukedukem]

Buy these.. Save yourself a lot of headache!!

http://www.manciniracing.com/unfrsuprotok.html

Wanted to thank you for posting this link. i purchased this tool kit and it has been a lifesaver so far. it cost some coins, but it has been worth it.
torsion bars came out so easy with it, and i had headers in the way.

thank you

Luke

[Derwud]

Buy these.. Save yourself a lot of headache!!

http://www.manciniracing.com/unfrsuprotok.html

Wanted to thank you for posting this link. i purchased this tool kit and it has been a lifesaver so far. it cost some coins, but it has been worth it.
torsion bars came out so easy with it, and i had headers in the way.

thank you

Luke

No Worries. I have done my front end before these types of tools were available (But I worked at a shop and had a much better to box), but those tools take a hard job and make it easier.. Hell even my Brother who made a great living rebuilding Chrysler front ends said it was a great kit, (to bad he has moved on to making crazy ass stuff).

[lukedukem]

Only thing I have left is lower control arms. I haveing trouble getting them out. The shaft nut and bolt are now spining together. I'm using a wrench to remove. Not sure if I have ability to get impact on it. Same with the strut, or whatever, going from k frame to lca. It has that keeper pin in it you remove then the nut should come off. It's just spining the whole thing as well. Any tips?

Luke

[garner7555]

I always use an impact on mine.  It will usually spin the nut off without problems.  If needed put a pipe wrench or large pliers on the shaft to hold it.     Good luck

[lukedukem]

You mean the shaft going from k member to lca. Or shaft for the lca, up by where the torsion bar goes.

Luke

[garner7555]

The pipe wrench I meant for the strut bar that runs up to the front of the k-member.  On the pivot shaft for the lower control arm there isn't room for a pipe wrench, but you could try holding the shaft with large pliers or maybe some Vise Grips.  Another trick is to push the control arm forward with something while tryng to loosen the nut so that the pivot shaft will "grab" or "seat" in the k-member.   Whichever route you go use an impact on all of these to get them loose.   

[lukedukem]

i tried to use an impact but i think mine is too big to fit in that k member space. i will try again tonight. i will try the pipe wrench trick on the other shaft as well. after i get these off i can clean everything up and go back in with it all. my wife bought me a powder coat kit from Eastwood for Christmas, and i have an old oven from a house remodel. so I'm gonna try to powder coat my UCA and see how they come out. ill post my results.  

i got in the last of my parts. so pic

Luke

[lukedukem]

OK, i have a couple questions regarding the LCA. i removed it last night and removed the shaft that goes through it. now after reading in the FSM I'm not really clear on what to do next. so my questions are

1. do i chisel off the sleeve that is on the shaft.
2. I'm guessing i need to some how remove a bushing inside the LCA, not sure where it is, but looking at the new bushing it has to be in the pic.

i posted the FSM instructions, and you can see where i made notes in step 5, and then 7&8. that is what I'm having issues locating.
in the second pic, I'm guessing the bushing starts at the red arrow and needs to slide off.
the third pic I'm not sure what needs to be removed.
the last pic is the new bushing.

Luke

[Derwud]

1. do i chisel off the sleeve that is on the shaft.
2. I'm guessing i need to some how remove a bushing inside the LCA, not sure where it is, but looking at the new bushing it has to be in the pic.

i posted the FSM instructions, and you can see where i made notes in step 5, and then 7&8. that is what I'm having issues locating.
in the second pic, I'm guessing the bushing starts at the red arrow and needs to slide off.
the third pic I'm not sure what needs to be removed.
the last pic is the new bushing.

Luke

1, Yes.
2, Yes.

The shaft does have the inner sleeve on the end of it, be careful getting that off. The outer sleeve is still in the lower arm, it is easier than the shaft, just use a punch and chisel to fold it over and pull it out.

[lukedukem]

not much progress, i was sick all weekend and still am. i almost got one of the bushings chiseled out of the LCA. when you guys paint these, how do you get in between the torsion bar swivel piece?

Luke

[lukedukem]

i have another question. on my bushings for the k member to LCA rod, the new one looks much thicker, is it because the old one is been mushed for so long? does this pic look like the right part. the new bushing is the bottom one

Luke

[cdr]

yes

[lukedukem]

Thanks for the reply Charlie. so I ran into another issue I need yall's guidance on. when I removed the metal bushing form inside the LCA, I might have banged up the wall a bit. I posted pics below. the first one is of the inside of the LCA, the second is of my attempt to clean up the damage. so is this still good to use.

Luke

[lukedukem]

I also did the same to the shaft, but I cleaned it up good enough to work. you can also see that k member bushing is mushed, not sure what caused this on this side only, but dang. pics

Luke

[lukedukem]

Does anyone know where I can get that sleeve in the last pic I posted. It didn't come with the new rubber pieces.

Luke

[b5blue]

I'll see if I have one? (I changed to solid mount/adjustable last year.)

[b5blue]

PM ME ADDRESS 

[lukedukem]

ok, this might be a dumb question but i have never installed Moog ball joints. why do all the ball joints i bought not have threads in them. i went to take them all out and set them out and install grease fittings and i couldn't thread them in. is it suppose to be like that and i have to thread them using the grease zerk. or do i need to use a thread tapping tool? wouldn't metal get in the grease regardless.. what do i do about his? I'm lost... here is a pic of the upper control arm ball joint, they are all like this, no threads

Luke

[garner7555]

I just use the grease fitting to make its own threads... carefully.   hahaha         

[lukedukem]

thanks for the tip, i'm kinda nervouse when it comes to that. but oh well, ill give it a shot.

does anyone know where i can get one of these pins or a substitute. i lost the other one.

and on this brake valve, do you replace, or just clean it out real good and reuse it. do these go bad ever?

thanks

Luke

[b5blue]

Your sleeve should be there Friday.  Just use big Cotter Pins for the strut.