My disk brake swap with susp. and steering upgrade. UPDATE 7/21/16 pg. 7

[lukedukem]

i had a thread about my drum brake issues (http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,123538.0/all.html) and i thought I'd start one on my upgrades so i can document and ask questions and you can follow along to better help me too.
i purchased a kit from Dr. Diff for disk brake conversion (stage2). as i put this on i will be replacing my ball joints and other components with Moog.
i will also put on a Hotchkis Sway bar, and some new shocks. i would like to put on new t-bars, rear springs and shocks as well. just need to check the budget. i can only work on my car about an hour a night. not sure on weekends yet, i have a 7 month old right now. thing is i want to have this done by July 4th, we will see...
on to the project and pics.

First pic is how far i got last night, i removed the drum brake assemblies from the spindles. I'm having a hard time getting the ball joints out. i used a little heat on the lower control arm one, and it didn't budge. is there a tool you guys recommend?

the second pic is of the bracket where the brake line goes. are these welds factory and they are just like that, or did someone to some work here?
also, where is a good place to get new brake lines?

Luke

[70 sublime]

The bracket looks factory

Get a ball joint splitter

Looks like a 2 prong fork that slips in around the stem of the ball joint
The prongs on the fork are wedge shaped and you drive it in with a hammer to pop the joint apart

[lukedukem]

The bracket looks factory

Get a ball joint splitter

Looks like a 2 prong fork that slips in around the stem of the ball joint
The prongs on the fork are wedge shaped and you drive it in with a hammer to pop the joint apart

I have one of those, i used it last night but still did not pop loose, even with heat and hammer.

Luke

[Derwud]

Buy these.. Save yourself a lot of headache!!

http://www.manciniracing.com/unfrsuprotok.html

[mopar4don]

You will need a tool like this to remove the ball joint from the upper control arm.
The ball joint has threads on it and screws into the UCA

Its a lot easier to leave the UCA in the car when removing the ball joint
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IOEQ1O/ref=pe_825000_114657650_TE_item

[lukedukem]

You will need a tool like this to remove the ball joint from the upper control arm.
The ball joint has threads on it and screws into the UCA

Its a lot easier to leave the UCA in the car when removing the ball joint
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IOEQ1O/ref=pe_825000_114657650_TE_item

I do have that in my tool box for sure. Thanks
Not sure if I can flip the coin for the set posted above, although I probably should

Luke

[Derwud]

The lower Ball Joint tool is awesome, I couldn't get my Right side off. Bought the tool and boom, done!!

Where do you live?

[Lennard]

Where do you live?

His profile says: Victoria - Texas 

[lukedukem]

Yes, Victoria, Texas. I might have to aping for this kit or ask auto store if I can rent something. I have gotten some new parts in but with my wife's birthday yesterday and Mother's Day today, I ha met done much but removed the old sway bar. Tomorrow I'll post pics of the goodies

Luke

[lukedukem]

i managed to get a little more done last night. got both the upper control arm assemblies off with the ball joint still attached with the knuckle. i have the socket but i couldn't get that sucker off. i brought it to work to see if one of our mechanics can get it off and then use the press to get the bushings out. I'm going to remove the shocks tonight and clean everything up, you can kinda see some of the original paint on the UCS bump bracket, Q5.  then i will remove the steering stuff. the PO put new pitman and idler arms on, but neglected the rest of the steering.
anyway, pics.

Luke

[cdr]

 

[b5blue]

Good to see ya having fun Luke! Looks pretty good under there. 

[lukedukem]

got it cleaned up last night after removing shocks. shot some rust repellent paint ( i didn't paint over the factory undercoating, just where it was metal).
i have decided to replace my torsion bars (with .96). being the car was a 318 car and is know a 383, plus the stock ones are 47 years old. the shocks i removed were Gabriel shocks, am i suppose to be able to push them down and they not come back up? i could compress and pull out easy on them both. oh well, they will be getting replaced as well. pics....

Luke

[Kern Dog]

Cool deal, man.
It is a LOT easier to remove the upper ball joint if the UCAs are still bolted to the car. They allow you to use lots of leverage to crank them loose.

[lukedukem]

I sure did try, but I didn't have the proper tools or strength. So I just removed it as a whole and I gave it to one of our mechanics at work along with the socket. He got it... but I'm not sure the threads are still good. how coarse are they suppose to be. i don't have the new ball joint on me to test it, but my mechanic said i might be able to thread it in and tack a weld or two on it to help hold. but is it worth it, or just get new ones. i will post up some pics to see what you guys think, and when i get home i will hit them with a wire brush and test fit the new ones in to see if they will hold good enough..

Luke

[lukedukem]

if these UCAs turn out to be no good, where is a good place to get some, rockauto?

Luke

[Derwud]

I might have a set for you.

Do you have to stay stock? I would look at some aftermarket ones that add some Caster for better ride and handling.

Oh and nice Wheels

[lukedukem]

I'd like to stay stock, yes. I'm going to test the new ones tonight and see if they thread in easy. I think I can get a set on eBay for 125 bucks.

Luke

[cdr]

I'd like to stay stock, yes. I'm going to test the new ones tonight and see if they thread in easy. I think I can get a set on eBay for 125 bucks.

Luke

they wont thread in real easy, clean everything & put a little lube on the threads & get after it,they will be tight.

[lukedukem]

I'd like to stay stock, yes. I'm going to test the new ones tonight and see if they thread in easy. I think I can get a set on eBay for 125 bucks.

Luke

they wont thread in real easy, clean everything & put a little lube on the threads & get after it,they will be tight.

You weren't jokin. I just came from the shop, They are going to be tight. I need to blast and powder coat them first but I think it'll work out

Luke

[lukedukem]

well one of my UCAs has bad threads, i tried cleaning them up, but its not good. plus they have corrosion issues that aren't bad but I'm gonna go ahead and replace them. anyone have a good source for them. i see they are on eBay. issue is, i have Moog parts and the new UCAs come with that stuff installed, unless i can find them without

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Control-Arm-Set-Upper-67-72-B-E-Body-Charger-GTX-Satellite-Polara/161329290351?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36142%26meid%3D9676b1dbef4a48e4ae5016e2c0ca8326%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D20%26sd%3D252349892141

Luke

[lukedukem]

other than trying to get the UCAs cleaned up i didn't get much else done, was on baby duty (7 months so she cant really help yet). but i did get parts in. thought it was funny that the Torsion bars had a "Use Before" on the box, but no date.

Luke

[myk]

Well, you've got aftermarket torsion bars, why not buy aftermarket UCA's to ease your parts search and possibly give you better handling?

[lukedukem]

Well, you've got aftermarket torsion bars, why not buy aftermarket UCA's to ease your parts search and possibly give you better handling?

I'm not sure i understand and forgive my ignorance, my torsion bars are from Mopar Performance are those considered aftermarket? suppose to be stock replacements, i just went up in size.

the Hotchkis box contains the sway bar. the hotchkis was something i saved for from last year, I'm just getting to buy it.

but I'm sticking with stock UCAs for budget reasons.
i understand the better handling argument, but i cant swing it, and i dont mind the way it drove before. plus it will just snow ball into buying other things too. i still have the rear suspension to price and see if i have enough money for that too. if not, I'll have to put that off for now.

Luke

[myk]

Yeah, I figured if you were going up in size then why not maximize the handling exploits.  But I get it; the Hotchkis UCA's set me back $800 and that's a fortune to me.  Hey, if we had unlimited funds we'd all be rolling in restored 100 point correct Daytonas, but we live how we can and play the hand that's dealt to us....