Cheap towing rig

[Homerr]

I'm needing a truck for home projects and landscaping stuff.  It'll be low-use overall and not a daily driver.  I'm drawn to the usual craigslist contenders: 67-79 Fords, 60-72 Chevy/GMC, or 72-93 Dodge.  Trying to keep the budget pretty low on this, $1500-2500.  I'm heavily leaning toward manual transmission.  In any case I'd get the mechanicals and any structural issues sorted.

I've never done any towing before.  Is it worth considering the trucks above as a tow vehicle?  I'd be just fine taking slow roads back and staying off freeways.  I'm thinking of a U-Haul Auto Transport trailer for the eventual trip(s) to go check out a potential Mopar project car.  https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/Auto-Transport-Rental/AT/  When I put in any truck 10 years or older their tow setup configurator it alerts about condition of the vehicle, etc.  The trailer rents for $20/day.


I'm thinking that showing up with cash and a trailer will be the best situation for any project car I may buy.  But there may be a few attempts before finding the right car.  I'm thinking somewhat local, say within 100 miles.  Very unlikely anything I'll be able to afford will be a driver.  So, my truck towing a U-Haul trailer is a $20 option - pretty cheap still.

Of course, U-Haul is happy to rent a truck in addition to a trailer.  A pickup and trailer runs $75 + $0.89/mile, so 100 mile radius totals $253, starting to add up.  If I reserve a truck/trailer near the project car and I go ahead with it then that's around $183.  If I reserve and don't go through, then a $50 cancellation fee.

So, with all that as a background:

Is towing with a 40+/- year old truck crazy?
What is the minimum spec you'd suggest towing with?  1/2 ton, heavy 1/2, 3/4?
V8 is definitely needed?  Six cylinder is okay for one-time use?
Don't risk it, just pony up for the full U-Haul setup?

[lukedukem]

i think that those older trucks you mentioned are going up in price, cause people are considering those classics now and asking more. 
you might consider a ford with the inline 6 cylinder. my dad had a 96 model and he put 300,000 miles on it with the only issue being freeze plugs at 275K mark. those are good hard working engines. my brothers 92 ford had 325K before he sold it. he had oil pressure issues starting around 250K. but we pulled the pan and cleaned it and installed new pump and good to go, and my mothers has 175K on it with a standard trans and she still drives it around and pulls a trailer for her goats. they last quite awhile. i don't think you need anything bigger than a 1/2 ton if all your doing is landscaping and maybe towing a car. i think one of those with a stick would be great. my dad actually used to tow our Deere tractor with is old 96 ford on a 18' trailer (3800lb+trailer). only issue was it was a bit nose high. but he didn't load it on the trailer good.
hope this helps.

Luke

[Homerr]

Thanks for the feedback.

Plan B could be a high-mile F150, 1997 or newer.  They show up regularly on CL with ~250k miles in my price range.  I just need something to put on less than 1,000 miles per year.

[Troy]

I towed a lot (more than I expected) with my 1984 Suburban (3/4 ton, 2WD, 454, auto). It was more reliable than my 1999 Cummins Ram (but only about 1/3rd of the capacity). Gas mileage was just under 11 empty and 10.25 with my trailer and car - so pretty consistent. I paid $1,100 for it and sold it 5 years later for $900. I never towed with my 76 Power Wagon (4WD, 440, auto) because it sat high and mileage was atrocious (between 4 and 6 mpg). If you're looking at an old Dodge or Chevy with a carbureted  small block, be aware that they won't get much better mileage than a big block but will be way down on torque. My friend has horses and uses an old Ford F150 with a six cylinder and manual transmission. Those things have a lot of torque and seem bulletproof.

My recommendation would be a 2WD unless you're attempting landscaping way back in a soft/muddy field. I like the toque of big blocks but, for a car, is likely not necessary. A 1/2 ton should be able to tow a car easily enough but I like the HD suspension and brakes that come on the 3/4 ton models. Going is only part of your problem! U-Haul trailers are short! Loading a big block Charger is a challenge.

Car has no engine but it did have a rear window so towing it backwards was more aerodynamic:


This one has a 383:


This is how much nicer a longer trailer can be:



Troy

[b5blue]

  I've a buddy that swears by old Dodge trucks. He's hauled old muscle cars everywhere with 600.00 trucks. 6 or V8, stick and auto. Make sure the frame is not really rusty and the electrics are toasted. Everything else is normally very fixable and not costly. (You'll pay more he hunts them down for cheap and fixes his finds.)  

[Aero426]

At your price point, I would go with a early 90's D150.     They have the best of both worlds with the older truck look but a fuel injected engine.   Resale on the gas engine 2wd trucks like this is not very high.    My truck is a 1993 with a 318 and overdrive.  It is set up for towing an open car trailer with a class III hitch.   After I bought my 2004 Ram for towing an enclosed trailer,  I have stored this truck on and off for a few years and really should let it go.   Unfortunately, it's in Wisconsin and not close to you.  

[41husk]

I would drive that rig

[DixieRestoParts]

At your price point, I would go with a early 90's D150.     They have the best of both worlds with the older truck look but a fuel injected engine.   Resale on the gas engine 2wd trucks like this is not very high.    My truck is a 1993 with a 318 and overdrive.  It is set up for towing an open car trailer with a class III hitch.   After I bought my 2004 Ram for towing an enclosed trailer,  I have stored this truck on and off for a few years and really should let it go.   Unfortunately, it's in Wisconsin and not close to you.  

I agree, those trucks are fairly cheap, parts are cheap. Good vehicle. You can probably even find a 318 D250 cheap.

[RallyeMike]

I know this is a Mopar site, but I agree 100% with Troy. I don't think you can beat a 20-30 yo Chevy 3/4 Ton 2WD for pure value in your price range. I have spent a lot of miles towing in cheap Chevy trucks. There's a million of them, there is so much support that you can practically build one from a parts catalog, and the parts are 2/3rd the cost of Mopar. If you are just going to tow occasionally and not drive it much, find one with 454. Even a 1/2 T with a 350 tows fine and is easier to find. You might have so much money left over you'll be tempted to buy a decent car trailer! Good luck!

[b5blue]

  My experience with 14 GM's and 7 friend owned GM's was pretty bad so I say Dodge. Ford's chassis is built like a tank but the front end was a pain if repair/alignment became an issue.
  Avoid "Opti-Spark" and that awful "spider rig" central injection system on any GM you may consider, both will cost big problems when (Not if.) they fail. (A case where older is better for GM.)

[ACUDANUT]

1500-2500 ain't much these days.  Good luck.

[Troy]

To clarify...

My 76 Power Wagon and Suburban were both carb'd. I have never owned a fuel injected gas Dodge truck. However, I rode with Bill Allphin to the Don Garlits show in Florida one year in his Magnum powered Ram and we averaged about 9 mpg with his enclosed trailer (not a car hauler) in back. Thing felt gutless to me - but I was also driving the Cummins at the time. Everything felt gutless! My cousin has a Ram 2500 5.9 4x4 and it's going strong even with the abuse he puts it through (farm, hunting, heavy equipment mechanic). Except the paint. Those things shed. I have no idea what the prices are but I can tell you that between the Magnum and Cummins engines I refused to visit a dealer for years due to their price gouging. The 90s HD Dodge trucks have a very expensive front end so you may want to check parts prices before buying one with high miles.

I have been looking for a square F250 since (and before) I sold the power wagon but they have rust issues almost as bad as my Toyotas.

Troy

[Homerr]

Thanks for all the input, it's really helpful.

Aero426, yes, I wish we were closer.  That's a good looking rig.

[JR]

With that budget, and limited usage, ID look for a mid 90s 2wd longbed Ford/Chevy work truck. Maybe a retired city/county vehicle.

Mid-late 90s is new enough to be reliable, but old enough to be in budget.  

No way I'd want to fool with a 50 year old truck and the associated headaches. If I need to tow/haul something, the last thing I want to do is tinker with the work truck, then wonder if it will break down with the trailer in tow.





I'd take either of those for what you're gonna be doing with it.

My tow/haul rig is a GMT 800 era Z71. It doesn't push any of my car enthusiast buttons, but it serves its purpose well, and more importantly, I never have to work on it aside from normal maintenance.

[miller time]

Just saw a I think 95 Cummins with utility or work bed that may need some frame helpmand other fixings in cars for sale on here around $3200 as a parts truck for powertrain, look into it, if it's decent you won't be sorry! That's a good price for a running Cummins alone let alone all the other parts and scrap value of everything else! Don't know either of balls States but a road trip I think would be a drop in the bucket for it, plus if you fix it up, there's no reason it can't be a DD I drive a 05 Cummins dually 6spd everyday! And I want an old 12 valve 4x4 one of these days soon!

[Aero426]

No doubt, a diesel is nice.   Considering pulling only an open trailer and on a small budget, a gas truck is still the ticket.    You want to be on the road driving to get your project.   Not dumping time and money in rehabbing or building a tow vehicle.  

I am also of the opinion that the diesel is completely unnecessary when you are not towing.  

Being from Seattle, I would suggest the OP look at trucks from the dry side of the state or Oregon.    Might even be able to find a 94-up Ram 1500 at the upper end of his price range.   A friend has a 97 1500 and it is a much nicer handling truck compared to my 1993.   His also has a 360 compared to my 318, so it has a little more go.    Also need to make sure the truck you buy has a gear ratio suited for the job.   3.55 with OD is nice.  

My hot list would be:
88-98 Chevy/GMC 1500
94-01 Ram 1500
91-93 Ram 1500 with FI
92-96 F150/250

All of these are good trucks with reliable powertrains.   I have the 91-93 Ram and the boxy Fords on the bottom because they are essentially "old" trucks updated with more modern equipment.   For example, my 93 Ram is basically an early 1970's truck with a lot of updates. 

[odcics2]

I did very well with a 1975 Dodge van.  318 auto - got 13-15 mpg all the time.
Pulled a Bird on a U-Haul dolly, and a 68 GTX convert., and a 69 Daytona, and a 69 Charger sunroof car to name a few.
Hauled complete 440s, loaded through the side doors.
Could load it up with most anything. 

Paid $750. for the van.

Something to consider - Older vans are overlooked.

[lukedukem]

I'm gonna say it again. the I6 fords are, imo, the way to go for light towing and super easy to work on. 92-96. here is one just like my dads and he put 300K on it before selling. this one only has 147K on it and is in pretty good shape. i know it is above your 2500 price range but maybe you can talk him down.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/5555248194.html
Luke

[JR]

^ X2. I vote for that Ford. That thing will most likely be a tank. Cheap, reliable, and you can fix it with a hammer in the unlikely event something breaks.

Also, I'd strongly recommend against a diesel. Diesel engines don't like to sit unused. And if you're only driving it 1-2 thousand miles a year, that seems like problems in the making.

[Homerr]

Thanks for the replies.  I'm week or two from buying the truck.  My wife's old Subaru is for sale first so we have the space.

Here's what I'm seeing locally.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/5488022459.html  (less the graphics)

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/5532670743.html (still like the old trucks)

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5510690414.html (in my neighborhood, cheap)

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/5503719470.html (lol, hard to haul barkdust in though)

The 88-98 Chevy/GMC stuff looks well over-budget unless it is thrashed.

[Aero426]

The 1994 is the only one I'd seriously consider.    

The others...  well they're old trucks.   They are going to drive like old trucks.  As someone told me,  "I can make it work.  But I can't make it new".    No way on the ramp truck.   Looks like a PITA to load with the steep angle.    

[lukedukem]

The 1994 is the only one I'd seriously consider.    

The others...  well they're old trucks.   They are going to drive like old trucks.  As someone told me,  "I can make it work.  But I can't make it new".    No way on the ramp truck.   Looks like a PITA to load with the steep angle.    

I agree, the 94. It's hard to pass on that 77 though. but as Aero426 said, they're gonna drive like old trucks. But the 94 probably has cruise and you can get a/c going. Stick is good too.

Luke

[warmpancakes]

I have a 96 F150  std cab long bed 2wd    312000 miles, I bought it 3 years ago with 260k miles for 2200.    its rust free, and simple to fix ,    hauls 2 yeards of mulch easily, and all the other random crap i need hauled,  truck gets more "wanna sell it"  than i can count

[toocheaptosmoke]

I have an '88 F150, straight six, 5 speed, 4x4.  I agree it has been one of the easiest trucks to work on, parts are cheap for the most part.   I didn't even want a Ford, but it was all I could find at the time.  I really like it now, been a good relatively simple truck. 

[charger_fan_4ever]

ive had 6 ram diesels 97-04 all 4wd.

I will say 2nd gen 4x4 front ends are bad enough for steering, 2wd noway.

Id scope out a 1st gen ram 3/4 ton 4x4 with a 5 speed tow.

The brakes on the older 1/2 ton trucks i wouldnt feel "safe" with 7k pounds in tow.

[Aero426]

The brakes on the older 1/2 ton trucks i wouldnt feel "safe" with 7k pounds in tow.

I agree.   But a B-body on an open trailer is not close to 7k weight.       With four wheel electric brakes on the trailer the older half tons will do it.   

[Homerr]

Is a shortbed bad news for towing?

Like this one:  https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/5543438502.html

Works for as much as I'd ever haul and would give me more garage space.  Standard bed is okay though.

[warmpancakes]

4.3 with a manual wont pull a car on a trailer

[Aero426]

Is a shortbed bad news for towing?

I have towed an 18 foot open trailer with a Little Red Express and a '97 Ram shorty without any problems at all.     As mentioned, you gotta have a V8 in it tho.     

[stripedelete]

I agree,  if you don't need 4 wheel drive,  an 80's or 90's 3/4 ton Suburban,  with 454, is the most bang for the buck.
A 350/5.7 vortex will also do the job, but, 454's can be had cheaper and lower miles compared to a 350/5.7 or a c1500.

[JR]

How heavy a trailer do you plan on towing?

Are you hauling stripped down shells, or complete 4000 lb b bodies?

[Aero426]

How heavy a trailer do you plan on towing?

Are you hauling stripped down shells, or complete 4000 lb b bodies?

He's talking about pulling an open U Haul trailer (or similar) with a project car on it.   

[Homerr]

I'd like a pickup over a Suburban, but feel free to post about them as it may help others.

A complete Charger project on a U-Haul trailer is the goal.

I don't want 4wd, simple is better.  Diesel seems above what I need.  Live in the city grid 'burbs and just need a hauler for barkdust, dump runs, studs/plywood at lumber yard, pick up the odd piece of furniture type thing.  Obviously with a project Charger I'll need something to pickup/drop off parts.  Could be backup transportation for a week if primary car (an Accord) has an issue.  Could use it every other week and maybe put 1000 miles a year on.

For me the 80-96 F-150 2wd, manual trans, and 300/4.9 six are at the top of the running.  Seems like the Chevy/GMC stuff is all auto trans, V6, or 4x4 in my price range of $15-2500.

[miller time]

Short bed is fine for some,but if you put in a tool box you get a 4.5ft bed and that's ridiculous, personally I'd be just dandy with a 12ft bed, and even then it won't be enough at times lol short bed is dangerous with gooseneck trailers as a jack knife can slice the trailer into the cab and fifth wheel also I'm sure, but it sounds like you have your mind made up, if you want a truck get one, if you don't want to be sorry towing atleast an extended cab long bed diesel is the choice, and its fine I DD my 25ft Cummins dually and I'll change lanes with Mario andretty if I wanted, I used to lose civics in traffic when I was in highschool, but hey if you want a suburban and OK with needing a trailer and 6-8 parking spots to get a couch or lumber or engines, ect. Get one! This is America do what you want, BTW I believe truck buying is a man's job, if the wife wants 8 rows of seating trade in the other car and get one, I've never been sad with my diesel but would have traded in an SUV or car by now if I had one, but that's me! Do a circle comparison on paper, the 2 over lapping circles with similarities in the middle and it helps ALOT!
Good luck!

[Homerr]

So, holy crap selling a car.

I just sold my wife's 15 year old Subaru, which was needed to make some room for a truck.  KBB says $2500 on a good day private party, $1200 dealer trade-in.  It needed tires, engine light is on/off randomly (on today of course), it's about due for another timing belt, AC needs a charge, and idles rough and hesitates.  I just want this thing gone.  Dealers on CL are showing $5-6,000 prices however. 

In only 15 minutes two guys say they want to come look at it - it's first come and money talks. One said he'd be here in two hours as he's about 80 miles away, I told him I've got other people coming.  Everyone has a story: buying for wife/mother/sister.  The more local guy knows another is on the way too and offers $200 over - sold!  Meanwhile my phone is ringing every 5 minutes.  I call the 2 hour away guy (this is about 30 minutes from the original call) to tell him it's sold and gone, don't bother coming up.  He didn't take it well.  "WHAT'S THE GUYS NAME? GIMME THE GUYS NAME WHO BOUGHT THE CAR!"  <click>  Immediately get a series of texts from "it's probably a friend of mine that bought it, give me his name", "I'll give you $1000 if you tell me his name", and after an hour "I'll be there in 20 minutes".  I text him back that I'm calling the police if he shows up and that I'm blocking him.  All this over a $2500 Subaru, ffs.

I think there are a bunch of bottom-feeder buyers that are looking for anything presentable to put on a used car lot and charge the dealer price.  They all know the game, but this one guy has been on the losing end of the deal too often lately.  Or he's fucking insane.

So the moral of the story is charge a delusional price and come down until someone bites if you'd like to avoid these scum.

[lukedukem]

Holy crap dude. Did he show.

Luke

[VegasCharger]

So, holy crap selling a car.

So the moral of the story is charge a delusional price and come down until someone bites if you'd like to avoid these scum.

Selling on CL can be some serious drama if you don't put restrictions on the way you list. For me I NEVER display my phone number in the ad nor my regular e-mail address. I use the CL e-mail administrator system. I couldn't care less if I lose a potential buyer who is turned off by having to reply via e-mail on the first attempt. Avoiding the ton of drama out weighs that scenario. Also I NEVER have a potential buyer meet me at my residence, no way, instead I have them meet me at a remote area. I know that selling cars/trucks may be more difficult to do this but I would try to arrange a meeting that is not my home. For example at your work place or if the car/truck is road worthy and registered take it to a local Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes you name it. You don't want angry disgruntled buyer saying "I know where you live" if a deal goes bad.

I mostly sell parts so this task is a lot easier and I understand that selling cars that you're more than likely to actually invite them to your kingdom.

I hope it all smooths out for you in the long run. 

[Homerr]

So, no, the crazy guy didn't show.  We went out to dinner anyway.  But I did mention to the neighbors what was up.

Yeah, good points Vegas.  I figured anyone looking at the car registration and receipts will know where I live.  But next time I would do as you suggest.  I just had no idea there would be drama over this crappy car, there must literally be at least 1,000 silver 2002 Subaru Imprezas in Seattle.

[Aero426]

So, no, the crazy guy didn't show.  We went out to dinner anyway.  But I did mention to the neighbors what was up.

Yeah, good points Vegas.  I figured anyone looking at the car registration and receipts will know where I live.  But next time I would do as you suggest.  I just had no idea there would be drama over this crappy car, there must literally be at least 1,000 silver 2002 Subaru Imprezas in Seattle.

I had my '93 Ram (the rust free one from Mississippi pictured in this thread) on C/L for two days a couple years ago.   Nothing but bottom feeders and crazy people.    I took the truck down and kept it.  At the time, I didn't have the energy to put up with the hassle.  

[charger_fan_4ever]

Up here in canada its same thing but with kijiji.

I agree avoid inviting any of these yahoos into your driveway if at all possible to meet somewhere. I live 20 mins outside the city, usually i say i work in the city so can meet you in town. I used to be the kind that said the buyer needs to come to me to inspect ect, but now i always try to avoid it. the little extra money in gas and time loss is worth it to not have a freak in my driveway. Now anytime i have something forsale i never put a sign on it in the driveway anymore.

People are crazy these days. Wife is on maternity leave calls me at the office awhile ago says someones in the driveway and been over near the garage for 5 minutes then left. Never came to the door and her car was in driveway. I get home after work to find a sicky note with a phone # on garage door. The troll wants to buy my snow plow that was beside the garage way off the road. I wanted to call and say if you know whats best for you you won't come back in the driveway unannounced again, but figured this could cause more harm then good.

Summer project spray paint garage windows black.

[Homerr]

I've more or less settled on a 1992-6 F150/F250 shortbed 2WD with manual transmission.  Six is preferred but V8 would be ok.  Not in a hurry, so I can wait for the right one.  They seem to be around $1200-2000 nationally in this configuration with some dings and maybe needing some sort of non-major work like clutch or brakes.

[Homerr]

Thanks to everyone that commented, you all helped out a ton.

I ended up getting a 94 F150 XL, 2wd, shortbed, 154k miles, 4.9l six, 4spd+OD, $2,000.  It has just the right amount of scratches and minor dings, but still shine on the paint.  It was an old man's truck, I spent the afternoon cleaning out the interior - looks like he spilled a Coke in there and never cleaned it up.  Looking much better now.  Only thing that doesn't work is the front gas tank he says.  I'll figure that out, maybe a bad front tank fuel pump?

[RCCDrew]

Congrats!  I just lucked out and bought an 04 Cummins 4x4 for $2500. When a deal pops up you have to be ready with the cash.

[Aero426]

Looks like it will do the job.

[b5blue]

  Check the relay and wiring for the tank switch first. Check on the model transmission you have some Fords had a stick shift with a rubber plug on the very top. The rubber would dry out and the plug fall off. Road crap could get in and ruin the darn thing. (I'm not sure what years.)
 Good luck looks like you did fine!    (Peroxide is a good cleaner for soda, soak the stain and blot with a rag.)

[lukedukem]

Oh man Homer, a single cab short bed with duel tanks. They didn't make many of those. That was a option you had to order. Either way. Awesome buy for 2k.

Luke

[Homerr]

Thanks for the heads up on the transmission.  I have the Mazda M5ODr2 and it looks like this one can have issues with 3 internal rubber plugs failing.  I'll look further at this.

Been looking on some Ford forums and the dual tank problem tends to be the cross-flow valve between the tanks failing, so I'll look at that too.

Before doing any towing I'll get new rear tires and check/redo the brakes.

My head just about exploded last night looking at the owners manual about towing.  They have some general guidelines, definitions of GAWR/GCVW/etc. and then some charts of weights - and you're supposed to look at the door sticker too.  But it's like two people wrote all this up using different methodologies.  And they throw in terms like 'total weight' or 'load rating' - do they mean GVWR, GCVW, etc.  So it becomes confusing to follow.

From the owners manual: I have the 3.55 8.8" rear axle, the truck apparently weights 3,896 lbs. and is rated for GCVW of 7,800 lbs.

From the door sticker:

GVWR: 5,250
Front GAWR: 2,500
Rear GAWR: 3,166

Uhaul says I can tow their 2,200 lb. trailer with a V8 Dart, but not a /6 Charger - with either 5,000 or 6,000 lb. hitch rating system in their configurator.

The hitches in the pic a re $145/160/240 for 5,000/6,000/6,000 lbs. respectively.  Any idea why the last two have same rating?  I get the receiver, mount, and ball rating - that's easy.

But the owner's manual made it sound like this is the situation for the whole package:

7,800 GCVW
-3,896 truck
-2,200 trailer
============
1,704 load capacity

Anyone care to help me math this out?  It seems like GCVW is at odds with Uhaul's limits, at least from what I could decipher in the manual.

I'm okay telling Uhaul I'll tow a Dart instead of a roller Charger, but I'd like to know where I'm at.  

[Trulyvintage]

You did the math

Your calculations are correct

The truck you bought is not adequate to tow a car trailer and a car

http://howto.curtmfg.com/Pages/index.cfm.25.html

I tow an enclosed trailer every day - towing is one thing & stopping is another

My advice is to purchase a minimum 3/4 ton chassis vehicle



Jim

[stripedelete]

TrulyVintage is correct.

[RallyeMike]

There is the math, and then there is reality. He just needs to tow a project car a few times and run bark. It's not the best rig, but it will do the job. I would avoid a long highway tows or speeds over 55 or so..... take it easy, avoid steep hills, and leave excessive stopping room.

U-Haul is going to give you trouble because they are worried about company liability. Outside of U-Haul, a half rack of decent beer or less will typically get you trailer rental from your gear head acquaintances 

[Homerr]

What's your favorite beer, Mike?   

[RCCDrew]

There is the math, and then there is reality. He just needs to tow a project car a few times and run bark. It's not the best rig, but it will do the job. I would avoid a long highway tows or speeds over 55 or so..... take it easy, avoid steep hills, and leave excessive stopping room.

U-Haul is going to give you trouble because they are worried about company liability. Outside of U-Haul, a half rack of decent beer or less will typically get you trailer rental from your gear head acquaintances 

People used to tow with a lot less truck than we have now. If it's an occasional tow then his truck is okay.

[Homerr]

I know the brakes, axle, bearings, wheel studs, tires, etc. all work as a system, but would these help?

Hellwig helper springs

[Trulyvintage]

" The Reality " is ....

Put yourself in the place of someone driving down the road involved in an accident
you caused because you were trying to " save a buck " ... 

Have any type of accident or claim of an accident while you are behind the wheel of an undersized tow vehicle ...

Or

Behind the wheel of a tow vehicle hauling a rental trailer that you lied to the rental agency about
what vehicle you were putting on it so they would rent it to you ...

You will quickly find you have no insurance.

It takes one accident to lose everything you own & will own in the future.

Don't be a D^ICK ...   

Be responsible ... 



Jim

[Bob]

I used a 88 F150 six cylinder to tow a 74 charger from Kentucky to Pennsylvania on a full trailer. No issues except for the mountains.

[lukedukem]

 

There is the math, and then there is reality. He just needs to tow a project car a few times and run bark. It's not the best rig, but it will do the job. I would avoid a long highway tows or speeds over 55 or so..... take it easy, avoid steep hills, and leave excessive stopping room.

U-Haul is going to give you trouble because they are worried about company liability. Outside of U-Haul, a half rack of decent beer or less will typically get you trailer rental from your gear head acquaintances 

I agree, my dad had the same truck We pulled a 18' low boy with a crew cab super duty deisel on it for 52 miles and it did good. Kept it at 60 mph. All good.

Luke

[nvrbdn]

I had a full size dodge conversion van with a slant 6. Rented a car trailer from a local rental yard. (not U haul) Drove from St. Louis to Indy. Loaded up a 68 chevy van and hauled back to St. Louis.
   On the other hand I understand what Jim is saying about safety, and under powered/under rated towing vehicles. mainly because when I was pulling my 30 foot tag along camping trailer with a super slide behind an F-150 with the 302 V8 manual transmission, I couldn't get out of the way of anyone. And put a hill in front of me.... so I quickly jumped to a 3/4 ton 5.8 and changed the game.

[funknut]

The concern is that if you are exceeding the manufacturers specifications and are in a collision, you are putting yourself in legal jeopardy.

Let's say someone runs a red light and you T-bone them.  Even if there was no possible way you could have stopped,  if you are running a rig outside of spec then you will very likely be found at fault and your insurance may not cover it.

[Troy]

U-Haul also has no concept of "body shell" so they'll tell you that a big block Charger is not allowed because they're going by the size/weight of a complete vehicle. Having said that... their trailers are short and you have no room to shift the load forward/back. With a short bed truck you need to be very careful of tongue loading or that thing is going to wiggle like crazy.

Troy