Cheap towing rig

[Homerr]

I'm needing a truck for home projects and landscaping stuff.  It'll be low-use overall and not a daily driver.  I'm drawn to the usual craigslist contenders: 67-79 Fords, 60-72 Chevy/GMC, or 72-93 Dodge.  Trying to keep the budget pretty low on this, $1500-2500.  I'm heavily leaning toward manual transmission.  In any case I'd get the mechanicals and any structural issues sorted.

I've never done any towing before.  Is it worth considering the trucks above as a tow vehicle?  I'd be just fine taking slow roads back and staying off freeways.  I'm thinking of a U-Haul Auto Transport trailer for the eventual trip(s) to go check out a potential Mopar project car.  https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/Auto-Transport-Rental/AT/  When I put in any truck 10 years or older their tow setup configurator it alerts about condition of the vehicle, etc.  The trailer rents for $20/day.


I'm thinking that showing up with cash and a trailer will be the best situation for any project car I may buy.  But there may be a few attempts before finding the right car.  I'm thinking somewhat local, say within 100 miles.  Very unlikely anything I'll be able to afford will be a driver.  So, my truck towing a U-Haul trailer is a $20 option - pretty cheap still.

Of course, U-Haul is happy to rent a truck in addition to a trailer.  A pickup and trailer runs $75 + $0.89/mile, so 100 mile radius totals $253, starting to add up.  If I reserve a truck/trailer near the project car and I go ahead with it then that's around $183.  If I reserve and don't go through, then a $50 cancellation fee.

So, with all that as a background:

Is towing with a 40+/- year old truck crazy?
What is the minimum spec you'd suggest towing with?  1/2 ton, heavy 1/2, 3/4?
V8 is definitely needed?  Six cylinder is okay for one-time use?
Don't risk it, just pony up for the full U-Haul setup?

[lukedukem]

i think that those older trucks you mentioned are going up in price, cause people are considering those classics now and asking more. 
you might consider a ford with the inline 6 cylinder. my dad had a 96 model and he put 300,000 miles on it with the only issue being freeze plugs at 275K mark. those are good hard working engines. my brothers 92 ford had 325K before he sold it. he had oil pressure issues starting around 250K. but we pulled the pan and cleaned it and installed new pump and good to go, and my mothers has 175K on it with a standard trans and she still drives it around and pulls a trailer for her goats. they last quite awhile. i don't think you need anything bigger than a 1/2 ton if all your doing is landscaping and maybe towing a car. i think one of those with a stick would be great. my dad actually used to tow our Deere tractor with is old 96 ford on a 18' trailer (3800lb+trailer). only issue was it was a bit nose high. but he didn't load it on the trailer good.
hope this helps.

Luke

[Homerr]

Thanks for the feedback.

Plan B could be a high-mile F150, 1997 or newer.  They show up regularly on CL with ~250k miles in my price range.  I just need something to put on less than 1,000 miles per year.

[Troy]

I towed a lot (more than I expected) with my 1984 Suburban (3/4 ton, 2WD, 454, auto). It was more reliable than my 1999 Cummins Ram (but only about 1/3rd of the capacity). Gas mileage was just under 11 empty and 10.25 with my trailer and car - so pretty consistent. I paid $1,100 for it and sold it 5 years later for $900. I never towed with my 76 Power Wagon (4WD, 440, auto) because it sat high and mileage was atrocious (between 4 and 6 mpg). If you're looking at an old Dodge or Chevy with a carbureted  small block, be aware that they won't get much better mileage than a big block but will be way down on torque. My friend has horses and uses an old Ford F150 with a six cylinder and manual transmission. Those things have a lot of torque and seem bulletproof.

My recommendation would be a 2WD unless you're attempting landscaping way back in a soft/muddy field. I like the toque of big blocks but, for a car, is likely not necessary. A 1/2 ton should be able to tow a car easily enough but I like the HD suspension and brakes that come on the 3/4 ton models. Going is only part of your problem! U-Haul trailers are short! Loading a big block Charger is a challenge.

Car has no engine but it did have a rear window so towing it backwards was more aerodynamic:


This one has a 383:


This is how much nicer a longer trailer can be:



Troy

[b5blue]

  I've a buddy that swears by old Dodge trucks. He's hauled old muscle cars everywhere with 600.00 trucks. 6 or V8, stick and auto. Make sure the frame is not really rusty and the electrics are toasted. Everything else is normally very fixable and not costly. (You'll pay more he hunts them down for cheap and fixes his finds.)  

[Aero426]

At your price point, I would go with a early 90's D150.     They have the best of both worlds with the older truck look but a fuel injected engine.   Resale on the gas engine 2wd trucks like this is not very high.    My truck is a 1993 with a 318 and overdrive.  It is set up for towing an open car trailer with a class III hitch.   After I bought my 2004 Ram for towing an enclosed trailer,  I have stored this truck on and off for a few years and really should let it go.   Unfortunately, it's in Wisconsin and not close to you.  

[41husk]

I would drive that rig

[DixieRestoParts]

At your price point, I would go with a early 90's D150.     They have the best of both worlds with the older truck look but a fuel injected engine.   Resale on the gas engine 2wd trucks like this is not very high.    My truck is a 1993 with a 318 and overdrive.  It is set up for towing an open car trailer with a class III hitch.   After I bought my 2004 Ram for towing an enclosed trailer,  I have stored this truck on and off for a few years and really should let it go.   Unfortunately, it's in Wisconsin and not close to you.  

I agree, those trucks are fairly cheap, parts are cheap. Good vehicle. You can probably even find a 318 D250 cheap.

[RallyeMike]

I know this is a Mopar site, but I agree 100% with Troy. I don't think you can beat a 20-30 yo Chevy 3/4 Ton 2WD for pure value in your price range. I have spent a lot of miles towing in cheap Chevy trucks. There's a million of them, there is so much support that you can practically build one from a parts catalog, and the parts are 2/3rd the cost of Mopar. If you are just going to tow occasionally and not drive it much, find one with 454. Even a 1/2 T with a 350 tows fine and is easier to find. You might have so much money left over you'll be tempted to buy a decent car trailer! Good luck!

[b5blue]

  My experience with 14 GM's and 7 friend owned GM's was pretty bad so I say Dodge. Ford's chassis is built like a tank but the front end was a pain if repair/alignment became an issue.
  Avoid "Opti-Spark" and that awful "spider rig" central injection system on any GM you may consider, both will cost big problems when (Not if.) they fail. (A case where older is better for GM.)

[ACUDANUT]

1500-2500 ain't much these days.  Good luck.

[Troy]

To clarify...

My 76 Power Wagon and Suburban were both carb'd. I have never owned a fuel injected gas Dodge truck. However, I rode with Bill Allphin to the Don Garlits show in Florida one year in his Magnum powered Ram and we averaged about 9 mpg with his enclosed trailer (not a car hauler) in back. Thing felt gutless to me - but I was also driving the Cummins at the time. Everything felt gutless! My cousin has a Ram 2500 5.9 4x4 and it's going strong even with the abuse he puts it through (farm, hunting, heavy equipment mechanic). Except the paint. Those things shed. I have no idea what the prices are but I can tell you that between the Magnum and Cummins engines I refused to visit a dealer for years due to their price gouging. The 90s HD Dodge trucks have a very expensive front end so you may want to check parts prices before buying one with high miles.

I have been looking for a square F250 since (and before) I sold the power wagon but they have rust issues almost as bad as my Toyotas.

Troy

[Homerr]

Thanks for all the input, it's really helpful.

Aero426, yes, I wish we were closer.  That's a good looking rig.

[JR]

With that budget, and limited usage, ID look for a mid 90s 2wd longbed Ford/Chevy work truck. Maybe a retired city/county vehicle.

Mid-late 90s is new enough to be reliable, but old enough to be in budget.  

No way I'd want to fool with a 50 year old truck and the associated headaches. If I need to tow/haul something, the last thing I want to do is tinker with the work truck, then wonder if it will break down with the trailer in tow.





I'd take either of those for what you're gonna be doing with it.

My tow/haul rig is a GMT 800 era Z71. It doesn't push any of my car enthusiast buttons, but it serves its purpose well, and more importantly, I never have to work on it aside from normal maintenance.

[miller time]

Just saw a I think 95 Cummins with utility or work bed that may need some frame helpmand other fixings in cars for sale on here around $3200 as a parts truck for powertrain, look into it, if it's decent you won't be sorry! That's a good price for a running Cummins alone let alone all the other parts and scrap value of everything else! Don't know either of balls States but a road trip I think would be a drop in the bucket for it, plus if you fix it up, there's no reason it can't be a DD I drive a 05 Cummins dually 6spd everyday! And I want an old 12 valve 4x4 one of these days soon!

[Aero426]

No doubt, a diesel is nice.   Considering pulling only an open trailer and on a small budget, a gas truck is still the ticket.    You want to be on the road driving to get your project.   Not dumping time and money in rehabbing or building a tow vehicle.  

I am also of the opinion that the diesel is completely unnecessary when you are not towing.  

Being from Seattle, I would suggest the OP look at trucks from the dry side of the state or Oregon.    Might even be able to find a 94-up Ram 1500 at the upper end of his price range.   A friend has a 97 1500 and it is a much nicer handling truck compared to my 1993.   His also has a 360 compared to my 318, so it has a little more go.    Also need to make sure the truck you buy has a gear ratio suited for the job.   3.55 with OD is nice.  

My hot list would be:
88-98 Chevy/GMC 1500
94-01 Ram 1500
91-93 Ram 1500 with FI
92-96 F150/250

All of these are good trucks with reliable powertrains.   I have the 91-93 Ram and the boxy Fords on the bottom because they are essentially "old" trucks updated with more modern equipment.   For example, my 93 Ram is basically an early 1970's truck with a lot of updates. 

[odcics2]

I did very well with a 1975 Dodge van.  318 auto - got 13-15 mpg all the time.
Pulled a Bird on a U-Haul dolly, and a 68 GTX convert., and a 69 Daytona, and a 69 Charger sunroof car to name a few.
Hauled complete 440s, loaded through the side doors.
Could load it up with most anything. 

Paid $750. for the van.

Something to consider - Older vans are overlooked.

[lukedukem]

I'm gonna say it again. the I6 fords are, imo, the way to go for light towing and super easy to work on. 92-96. here is one just like my dads and he put 300K on it before selling. this one only has 147K on it and is in pretty good shape. i know it is above your 2500 price range but maybe you can talk him down.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/5555248194.html
Luke

[JR]

^ X2. I vote for that Ford. That thing will most likely be a tank. Cheap, reliable, and you can fix it with a hammer in the unlikely event something breaks.

Also, I'd strongly recommend against a diesel. Diesel engines don't like to sit unused. And if you're only driving it 1-2 thousand miles a year, that seems like problems in the making.

[Homerr]

Thanks for the replies.  I'm week or two from buying the truck.  My wife's old Subaru is for sale first so we have the space.

Here's what I'm seeing locally.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/5488022459.html  (less the graphics)

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/5532670743.html (still like the old trucks)

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5510690414.html (in my neighborhood, cheap)

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/5503719470.html (lol, hard to haul barkdust in though)

The 88-98 Chevy/GMC stuff looks well over-budget unless it is thrashed.

[Aero426]

The 1994 is the only one I'd seriously consider.    

The others...  well they're old trucks.   They are going to drive like old trucks.  As someone told me,  "I can make it work.  But I can't make it new".    No way on the ramp truck.   Looks like a PITA to load with the steep angle.    

[lukedukem]

The 1994 is the only one I'd seriously consider.    

The others...  well they're old trucks.   They are going to drive like old trucks.  As someone told me,  "I can make it work.  But I can't make it new".    No way on the ramp truck.   Looks like a PITA to load with the steep angle.    

I agree, the 94. It's hard to pass on that 77 though. but as Aero426 said, they're gonna drive like old trucks. But the 94 probably has cruise and you can get a/c going. Stick is good too.

Luke

[warmpancakes]

I have a 96 F150  std cab long bed 2wd    312000 miles, I bought it 3 years ago with 260k miles for 2200.    its rust free, and simple to fix ,    hauls 2 yeards of mulch easily, and all the other random crap i need hauled,  truck gets more "wanna sell it"  than i can count

[toocheaptosmoke]

I have an '88 F150, straight six, 5 speed, 4x4.  I agree it has been one of the easiest trucks to work on, parts are cheap for the most part.   I didn't even want a Ford, but it was all I could find at the time.  I really like it now, been a good relatively simple truck. 

[charger_fan_4ever]

ive had 6 ram diesels 97-04 all 4wd.

I will say 2nd gen 4x4 front ends are bad enough for steering, 2wd noway.

Id scope out a 1st gen ram 3/4 ton 4x4 with a 5 speed tow.

The brakes on the older 1/2 ton trucks i wouldnt feel "safe" with 7k pounds in tow.