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68 Charger Electric Gremlins

Started by VTMopar, April 21, 2016, 06:52:29 AM

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VTMopar

Hello:    Perhaps Neal or someone else might have some ideas.....      My '68 charger came out of resto a year ago; since then I have driven her a lot - like 10,000 miles with only a few minor issues.    A few days ago, when I tried to start her it would shut off when the key was released.  Checked on here and dutifully changed out the ballist resister - I had 3 spares.   No difference.   I changed the ignition switch - no difference.    Finally (probably where I should have started), I "pushed" on the wires in the firewall bulkhead connection.   It worked!    Fired up and runs like she always has..... Except now she's discharging.    I went back and checked the wiring on the bulkhead again.... Can't see where anything is crossed.   

Question:   There is a "lamp" that is supposed to light up the ignition switch   I don't recall it ever working -- but could this be an issue?   

Could it be a ground somewhere?

Any other ideas where to look/what do do next?   

Thanks
VT Mopar

VT Mopar

b5blue

  It cranks and starts but stops when the key returns to run. Crank is separate wire from run, it bypasses the resistor so it was good to check that first. So it could be just a loose connection from the ignition switch for run or that same wire at the bulkhead connector.
  I'd hook a meter or 12V light tester under the hood at resistor feed so it can be seen through the windshield. Start moving wires at the switch with the key in run (It's a given the engine is not running.) and look for any indication of power. Keep wiggling/moving wire until you can find just one that gives a 12V signal to focus on.  :2thumbs: It could still be a bad switch so also try wiggling the key around in run position.   

Pete in NH

Hi,

I don't think that the ignition key lamp is the issue. I suspect you have another bulk head connector pin issue. If you still have the original wiring/ bulk head connector in the car I would start looking there.

If you have a test meter and your 68 still has the original type alternator/regulator system you can start making some measurements. With the ignition key in the run position you should have 12 volts on the blue wire on the voltage regulator. I would start there.

If moving the bulk head connectors around restores the battery charging I would be time to consider cleaning/ replacing the bulk head connector pins.

crj1968

Check the white connector under the steering column. Mine had similar issue and that connector wasn't connecting completely

b5blue

Quote from: crj1968 on April 21, 2016, 01:58:19 PM
Check the white connector under the steering column. Mine had similar issue and that connector wasn't connecting completely

FYI 68 has ignition switch in dash not column like our 70's do.  :2thumbs:

VTMopar

Thanks Guys......      Appears it was the voltage Regulator.    I switched it out and she's now charging up a storm (maybe too much).  Tested at 13.5 or so at idle..... Which seems reasonable.   But when on the road, the gauge shows a very strong charge.   Given all the cranking, etc. I figure (hope) the strong charge might just be due to the battery being a bit down..... I put the battery tender on her for the night so will see how she performs in the morning.....   

Thanks again for the advice.....

VT Mopar
VT Mopar

b5blue

Now that it will be recharged and running it's a good time to do a wiggle wires test to be certain you do not have an intermittent problem. Glad to hear it's running again!  :2thumbs:

funknut

I assume when you say gauge you mean the ammeter.  Ammeter shows current through the system.  A positive reading on the ammeter means the alternator is producing current.  The voltage regulator's job is to make sure it's producing that current at the appropriate voltage to run the electronics and charge the battery.

The voltage should not change with RPM but the current definitely will.


crj1968

Quote from: b5blue on April 21, 2016, 03:14:06 PM
Quote from: crj1968 on April 21, 2016, 01:58:19 PM
Check the white connector under the steering column. Mine had similar issue and that connector wasn't connecting completely

FYI 68 has ignition switch in dash not column like our 70's do.  :2thumbs:

Ah yes....at one time I remembered these things

Glad you got it sorted out VT- thanks for feeding back the issue, as it's bound to help out someone else lurking around.