New "Bad" parts... Grrrrr

[AKcharger]

When I did the resto on my cars 10+ years ago I found that about 20% of the "new" parts either didn't work, didn't fit or were crap, I see little has changed. New base plate for Ramcharger hood warped and I just got the door actuator in today...rear hose tube bent, plus it's kinda on the cheap side but there's no alternative. Now of course they're going back but a good reminder to never STOCK PILE parts for a project, odds are a lot will not work and you will not be able to return them, just get and use parts as you go.

Just venting 

[timmycharger]

I here ya!

got console top plates for my 68 with a 4 speed, the first set I sent back as they were so wavy and littered with imperfections, for $600 I was expecting better. The second set from a different vendor was better but still not close to perfect.


Got a fuel filler trim ring from Year One, chrome work is shabby, wavy in spots.  WTF!

Instrument cluster bezels, look pretty good, but by all means, don't touch the black part, it comes off like nothing.   

I guess I should be happy that these parts are out there vs searching for good originals as I didn't have much luck, but sheesh... do the brand X guys have the same issues?

[b5blue]

  Yup, paid more for USA made and my Trim Parts door handles look crappy after just a few years sitting under my carport.     Same with the new FUEL cap.

[birdsandbees]

Don't get me started... 

[AKcharger]

What is REALLY annoying is I'll pay for quality parts. the old say "you get what you pay for" is true but seems we pay a premium for parts and often get 3rd rate crap

[Mike DC]

    
The repro industry on the whole has been slow to understand the change in the last 15 years.  It's not the 1990s.  We aren't looking for cheap ways to patch together raggedy cars anymore.  Now we are spending loads of time & money and reconstructing whole cars from scratch.  Very different scenario.  


The hobby is also far more connected now.  No more profiting off uninformed buyers.  We tell each other all about a new part as soon as the first batch ships.  If we don't like it then sales will STOP DEAD within a year and nothing short of a re-tool will revive the sales again.  Either make something better than our existing options or don't bother making it.        

[charger_fan_4ever]

Don't get me started... 

Whos belts are those ? Looks like i will need to get a new set.

[birdsandbees]

Belts came from PG Classics in Ottawa, B/E and A would be the same supplier, considering there's a note in the bag stating both companies names and that they are only for "decorative purposes and not DOT approved".

Replacement set are fine with no rust or corrosion 

They probably wet the webbing, in China, to sew and then packaged before drying out enough. With the replacement set I cut open every bag on arrival to air them out just in case.

[taxspeaker]

I've even had some problems with official Mopar restoration parts lately-headlight switch for 65 barracuda today is 1/4" too long and won't allow knob to lock into the switch.

I have stopped buying a lot of stuff and am now redoing originals-sent the seatbelts in the 65 to SSnake oil and loved their work-so I'm pulling the ones out of the 70 AAR next week and sending them for refurbishment. Sent the Superbird and AAR dash to Dave Patek to redo them rather than buying crap gauges and bezels, if someone could just make a darn "B" body gas tank sending unit that actually worked my day would be made!

On my Alaska trek this summer none of the 1970 parts broke but I lost to breakage a YearOne gas tank, 2 ECM's from Year One, a Classics Industries radio and a front disk caliper from someone else.

Bob

[71charger_fan]

The brand new repro fuel sending unit in my car has 6.2 ohms whether the tank is empty or full. Unfortunately, I bought it several years ago and have only just now started using the car. So, I have another sending unit on order and will have to drop the tank to replace the new sending unit with another new sending unit. Having the gas gauge read over full all the time is not helpful at all. The brand new temp sender didn't work at all and the brand new neutral safety switch wouldn't turn on the back up lamps. So, three new sensors, all crap.

[charger_fan_4ever]

Belts came from PG Classics in Ottawa, B/E and A would be the same supplier, considering there's a note in the bag stating both companies names and that they are only for "decorative purposes and not DOT approved".

Replacement set are fine with no rust or corrosion 

They probably wet the webbing, in China, to sew and then packaged before drying out enough. With the replacement set I cut open every bag on arrival to air them out just in case.

Good to know.

Bought a fair bit from PG arent they down east though ?

[Mike DC]

 
Selling seatbelts is a liability issue a mile wide.  It's not surprising if a company won't take responsibility for function on that part, even if they are trying to sell something legit.

[birdsandbees]

 
Selling seatbelts is a liability issue a mile wide.  It's not surprising if a company won't take responsibility for function on that part, even if they are trying to sell something legit.

No issues with that Mike.. I've made injection moulded plastic seat belt parts for 30 years now, so know the gig well. Only pointing out you'll get the same belts from B/E and A as you do from PG Classics in Ottawa (Nepean) Ontario. First set extremely rusted as shown above and all buckles corroded inside and knurled rollers rusted. Very happy with the replacements, just ask them to check before they ship.

Now it's stuff like this, specifically requested by the supplier that I order a 5 pc kit and not a 3 piece kit + a pair of end plates to make sure they all match. $790 Cdn with taxes..

[b5blue]

  I got a set of aftermarket seat belts, about 75.00 shipped. Electric Blue really close to B5 Blue. (They sent a webbing sample first for free.) DOT approved, just the buckles are all chrome smooth finish.
  My car is a driver so detail not as critical, gosh I'd been really pissed getting a set like that crap they shipped you! 
  Even my new radio plate for dash, I epoxied a "DIN"size frame for the SuperTuner and the painters tape I put on it to protect it pulled off sections of the shiny chrome trim!  I'm so glad I'm near the end buying stuff it's not funny! 

[birdsandbees]

Stuff like this ticks me off as well. Pay good money to get a licence reproduction and they slap the crappy sticker on the show side. Could you not put it on the underside???

Anyone have any tips / tricks to get said sticker off without marring the surface of the plastic reservoir??

[mpd659]

Sticker removal




You should be able to take some automotive wax and grease remover and put it on a towel. Let the towel set on the sticker for 20 to 30 seconds and that usually will free the sticker and then wipe the rest of the glue off of your plastic surface.

Russ

[LaOtto70Charger]

I just bought a ignition lock cylinder and door locks from Van's Auto for my 70.  Got them rekeyed so I still only need one key.  I got to put the lock cylinder in and it doesn't snap into place so if you take the key out the cylinder comes with. In addition it doesn't spring back from the start position.  Than I notice the piece to snap it in is a pin and not a "washer".  Rechecked there site and it says 70-74 so not sure what is up but only one picture so can't tell what type of pin.  Anyway go out to Autozones website and they have the right one.  Plus 4 pictures to verify the "washer" is used and not a pin.  Picked it up yesterday and it slid in, locked in, and snaps back from start.

Now to get the new door locks rekeyed to match it again.  Will trial fit this time first though.

[VegasCharger]

No issues with that Mike.. I've made injection moulded plastic seat belt parts for 30 years now, so know the gig well. Only pointing out you'll get the same belts from B/E and A as you do from PG Classics in Ottawa (Nepean) Ontario. First set extremely rusted as shown above and all buckles corroded inside and knurled rollers rusted. Very happy with the replacements, just ask them to check before they ship.

Now it's stuff like this, specifically requested by the supplier that I order a 5 pc kit and not a 3 piece kit + a pair of end plates to make sure they all match. $790 Cdn with taxes..

Sounds like the same crap that "Just Dashes" pulls. They won't do just one dash pad, they have to do them them all so that they color "match". Bla Bla Bla  Yea you just want to gouge our wallets. FU JD 

Stuff like this ticks me off as well. Pay good money to get a licence reproduction and they slap the crappy sticker on the show side. Could you not put it on the underside???

Anyone have any tips / tricks to get said sticker off without marring the surface of the plastic reservoir??

Maybe try a blow dryer, heat gun

[AKcharger]

One more rant, got my 3rd Ramcharger door actuator (made it without tube broken) it cycled a few times and now it doesn't work, bypasses internally. So I guess #4 will be better

[Mike DC]

 

Keep sending the shit back & making the companies deal with it.  The more of a PITA we make ourselves the sooner they will fix the issues. 

[VegasCharger]

Keep sending the shit back & making the companies deal with it.  The more of a PITA we make ourselves the sooner they will fix the issues. 

[AKcharger]

Keep sending the shit back & making the companies deal with it.  The more of a PITA we make ourselves the sooner they will fix the issues. 

I plan to but the Funny ting is I bought the 1st two from Herbs and after I sent back the second one he wouldn't sell me any more because "the returns cost him too much money" so I got the 3rd direct from P&G classic...oh and it was mis-shipped and lost for a week, this is a cursed part no doubt about it!

[tan top]

when I was putting mine back together after I done a nut & bolt resto / rebuild 15ish years ago , I tried to use as much of original parts from the car as possible , & good used parts or nos  , & repop at last resort  ,  found a lot of the repop parts were not made exactly like the original , & much poorer quality  , & some were just plain crap  . would have thought with todays manufacturing etc ,  should be superior to 50 year old OEM parts .

I realise there are some pretty good repop parts now, very different to when I was doing mine  , but still not 100% accurate
heres a question to any repop companys out there reading this  , WHY GO TO ALL THE TROUBLE & EXPENCE REPRODUCING A PART , & NOT AT LEAST MAKE IT AS GOOD AS A  ORIGINAL OEM PART FOR FIT & QUALITY  .   cant all be for profit , & it would cost more  etc , may be the dimensions &  quality & look of said parts , get lost in translation when the stuff is made in china ,  india ,   mexico or ..... ,

don't get me wrong   , I cant believe whats  repoped  for our cars now , back in 1989 when I first got my charger , would never have dreamed all this stuff would have been available !!  

 i'm sure us mopar guys would pay the extra , for a  100 % accurate repop part .

do the FORD & CHEBBY mob have this trouble ,  from what ive read they can build a whole  damn   car with repop stuff ,  

no offence meant to  anyone  , just how I see it  

[Troy]

Yes, the Ford and Chevy guys have the same issues! A local Mustang shop even has a special process for straightening repop bumpers since they get so many that won't even fit the cars. I know another shop that specializes in tri-five Chevies and they have similar stories.

I have talked to many vendors about quality of parts. It seems that, like anything, the last 10% is always the hardest and most expensive to get right so most assume they'll lose money by chasing perfection (and knowing all the cheapskates I do they may be right).

Troy

[ht4spd307]

problem is the parts for the mopar, chevys and fords may not be perfect but mopar buyers pay 3 times as much for their parts which are the same crap standard.so how does that work out.and before you jump on the old supply demand wagon i purchased a brake caliper rebuild kit same amount of parts as a mustang virtually same design rubbers mustang $15 mopar $65