News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Paint - factory front bumper repair curb rash, scrape, and rock chips

Started by Shroomba, April 09, 2016, 09:19:29 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Shroomba

Pdr is freaking stupid as hell...3+ days of whacking at it and using a tap down made hardly any difference. .im sanding the whole damn door

Edit: not literally, but I sanded the dent area and filled it with bondo glass... idk bondo help desk said to use glass or hair.... hope he's right

Shroomba

Ahhh, the bumper was so much easier....everything on the bumper was so thin...

My question is: do I bondo all the metal to get it leveled to a tad bit lower than the stock primer or prime the hell out of it and sand it down to feather both primers level?


hemi-hampton

What grit did you feather it with. What I would do now (& I know other opinions may vary) is spread a thin layer of Evercoat glazing putty over the whole damaged area, right to the feathered paint but not over shiny paint. Block it until it just starts to sand away to the feathered edge, you should see the scratches at the edge of your glazing putty at the feathered edge paint area. Check to feel if straight, if so prime with some Surface primer using primer gun preferably. Spray can primer use as last option. Spray can primer is usually way to thin. Let me know what happens. LEON. :scratchchin:

hemi-hampton

It should look like this when your done with the glazing putty. LEON.

garner7555

Quote from: hemi-hampton on April 19, 2016, 06:20:31 PM
What grit did you feather it with. What I would do now (& I know other opinions may vary) is spread a thin layer of Evercoat glazing putty over the whole damaged area, right to the feathered paint but not over shiny paint. Block it until it just starts to sand away to the feathered edge, you should see the scratches at the edge of your glazing putty at the feathered edge paint area. Check to feel if straight, if so prime with some Surface primer using primer gun preferably. Spray can primer use as last option. Spray can primer is usually way to thin. Let me know what happens. LEON. :scratchchin:


I agree 100%
69 Charger 440 resto-mod

Shroomba

I used 80 grit on the fiberglass putty then went over it and feathered the edges with 150 grit.

I dont know if the stores around me have the evercoat brand, but im sure they have bondo in the tube.

Can I apply the bondo fiber glass like that? Or do I have the get the glazing putty. Most likely, im assuming the polyester glazing putty is the move because it adheres better to the feathered edges that are sanded with paint and primer on it

Shroomba

Ughhhhh, so I sanded a foot by foot area with 150-220 grit and applied the glazing putty over the fiberglass and adjacent area. Proceeded to cross sand the excess with  150 grit on a 12" block and and feathered it in with 220.

Everything felt smooth side to side but when I ran my hand up and down I could feel a slight raised area  (about 1-2 mm didn't measure it but it so slight) when it went over the metal...

I sprayed some cheap black paint for a guide coat...bad idea the paint didn't sand off right and ruined a few pieces of paper...hopefully won't be a problem later down the line.

I first thought a small area above the metal was high so I improperly sanded it at an angle and messed it up... :brickwall:

Idk,  I really don't... there might have been a slight dip above the raised area above the metal.

My gut was telling me to leave it alone and just prime it, but my ocd screwed me in the butt because I gotta throw more putty on top of it now.

Does the metal have to have putty on top of it or will primer be fine?? I cant have it rusting in the future.

Shroomba

I think I got it as sooth as its going to get...still not perfect but ima see how it looks after the prime.

So I took off all extremedies and masked up the whole car.

Questions:
Is it okay if some bare metal was showing?

Should I wet sand the whole door with 500 grit before priming just in case some over spray hits the shiny clear coat adjacent to my sand marks?

Should I prime the whole door or just the areas where I broke through the clear coat?

Should I paint the whole door staying away from the edges that are adjacent to other panels? Or just paint the damaged areas?


I know that I should do a final wet sand with 800-1000* of the whole door prior to painting and clear the entire thing :D

Any advice is greatly appreciated
Sorry i get anxious before painting. ..


Shroomba

Damn bro I messed up so bad...worst paint job I have ever seen...I put 4 coats over the bondoed area, dusted 2 light coats over the entire door  going light on the edges, 2 coats of clear over the entire door.

Ughhh, I tried my best spending a week on prepping....but forgot to clean the outer threads of the lid on paint gun as well as the mixing cup for the clear coat (it looked so clean and clear...) but on my first coat of clear the gun sprayed crusted fish eyes everywhere :. (...

I should have just stoped there, but I tryed to fix it with a toothpick and tweezers, which got some of them...and threw another clear coat on top...

After I finished, I could easily seen the spots I repaired as well..

Idk what do to? Should wet sand the hell out it with 2000 or something? Or do I have to start over and take 500 grit to it and redo the entire thing?

Daytona R/T SE