Paint - factory front bumper repair curb rash, scrape, and rock chips

[Shroomba]

I had a few questions I was hoping I could get some insight on from the OG painters.

Long story short, I hit a curb in a vertually brand new car and I have to fix it so it looks like nothing ever happened.

Damages: a deep curb scrape on the bumper, a few curb rashes on the lower end of the bumper, and over a thousand rock chips.

Solution: I carefully sanded 80-200 grit the scrape and Bondo'ed it up, sanded it with 220 grit to perfection. I also wet sanded the curb rash with 500 grit. I then used the dealership touch up paint to cover over a 1000 rock chips (extremely impractical), gave it a few days to cure and wet sanded the whole damn thing with 2000 grit (I might have went a little over board because it looked better without sanding but it didn't feel right). I didn't touch up the bottom of the bumper trim because there were to many chips but I wet sanded with 2000 grit when I got slightly carried away.

Next step, I used dupli-color sandable white primer and put 3 coats of primer 10 minutes apart from each other on the bondoed area, curb rashes, and on a small section of the bottom bumper trim. Besides the 2000 grit wet sanding I'm a poonani when it comes to sanding.

Tomorrow, I plan to sand the primer with 1200, I'm kind of scared to use the 500-800 but I might scrounge up enough courage to do so. Then, I will mix the dealership paint with 50% reducer and air brush all the primed areas and even some of the unprimed areas where the rock chips are. Followed, by a few sprays of spray-can clear coat...

Lastly, I'll wet sand it down with 2000 grit. If an area needs a little blending action I might have to lightly blend it with reducer, brake fluid, or paint leveler. Idk...finish it up with rubbing compound and polish.

Concern: The truth is I don't have a damn clue what the hell I'm actually doing and I'm extremely worried it's not going to look good and I feel like I already messed up (besides being reckless and having a tad bit too much fun).

Goal: I already came to the conclusion it's not going to look exactly like factory quality. It just need to look like nothing happened to the untrained eye. As well as, I need the paint to last.

**questions**: Can I air brush base coat over the factory clear coat after I wet sanded it with 2000 grit? Will it last, if not, how long?

Should I even bother using the spray-can clear coat? Mainly planed on using it on the bondoed area and the other places that got primed.

Did I do the right thing by wet sanding almost the whole thing with 2000 grit?

Do you think it will look close enough to factory settings?

What should I have done or do?

Based on my strategy, am I doing it right?

I appreciate any comments, concerns, or advice.

Please help,
Thank you so much for your time

[birdsandbees]

Maybe just tell your parents you f'd up their car instead of trying to fix it before they get home on Monday!  

Been there done that 38 years ago and we couldn't buff the blow in before my dad saw it!  

[Lennard]

Maybe just tell your parents you f'd up their car instead of trying to fix it before they get home on Monday!  

Been there done that 38 years ago and we couldn't buff the blow in before my dad saw it!  

[Shroomba]

lol I'll tell them eventually, just not in a position to do so at the moment....and the last thing I want is for them to find out whenever they go to a car wash and the paint just falls off. If I can repair it, I'll be fine for now and let them know when the time is right.

I hope to finish it on time...with the power of information and access to friends with tools, God has blessed this young man haha.

I gotta admit body work is a lot of work and hella stressfull, but I kind of like it. Definitely not as easy as it looks. I have mad respect for people in the industry.

I'm sorry you weren't able to meet your deadline, but I'd forever appreciate any advice or help about the project.

[JB400]

Hope you used flexible primer that is made for using on plastics.  If not, they may find out sooner than you'd prefer.

[Shroomba]

I used bondo 280 for bumper repairs -http://bondo.com/products/bondo-epoxy-bumper-repair-syringe-kit-280.html#4OqLrGkaazr2SYg1.97

I probably should have used #806 but AutoZone, Napa, nor o'riley carried it...

For the clear coat, I know it has to match the same type or it will crack as well. Most likely, I'd assume it's enamel based but I'll double check with the dealership. It's so lame that the dealership doesn't sell clear coat, but they have touch up paint...nor does the clear coat warranty people...after being redirected to every department, they gave me the name of the company who makes it, which they only have it in bulk. So I'm s.o.l and either have to settle with spray can clear coat or just air brush dupli-color clear, shirwin Williams, or another brand.

I've read that even bodyshops struggle with blending clear coat...

When priming, how much do I put over the bondo? Because I can still partially, lightly see it past the 3 layers.

[hemi-hampton]

Sorry I can't help you. it's all foreign lanquage to me as I just don't do any of it that way. Good luck. LEON.

[Shroomba]

Awwww man...Leon your the OG painter I was hoping to shed some light on the shituation.

My heart sank into my stomach reading your post. Damn ...way to crush my little to no confidence.

I would forever be in dept to you, if you could please explain how and what way you would do it?? As well as what I did wrong and why?

Trust me, i already know I messed up by crashing the car and I learned my lesson the hard way, with all the stress, anxiety, and adrenaline; this shituation has been a near death experience for me...ughhhhh I can't even explain how I'm feeling but I shouldn't be sweating this late at night.

C'mon bro, the least you can do is be like prime the areas that broke through the clear, blend the paint and clear coat the whole thing? If that's the way to do it.

If the spray can clear coat won't work, I can find away to get the oem clear. I'll call every effing body shop in a 30 mile radius if I have to.

just guide me in the right direction.

[garner7555]

I did body work for a living for years.  Ok, first you are using the wrong grit paper.  Primer, or paint/clear won't "grab" ahold of 2000 grit scratches well enough.  Secondly using a primer out of a rattle can is bad news because it doesn't have a hardener.  How long are you wanting this to last?  If you use spray bomb clear then it will last a few weeks, but it will be obvious that its not correct from day 1.

To do this semi correctly I would 80 grit the damage area then wipe it with filler.  Sand filler with 100-220 grit to make it straight.  Prime it with a 2 part primer (with hardener).  Finish the primer off with 600-800 grit then Lightly sand the entire bumper with 1000 grit.  Then scuff the entire bumper with a grey scotch brite.   Get paint and clear at an automotive paint supply store (don't use the touch up paint).  You can buy paint in very small amounts (pint or half pint) to save money.  The clear will probably run you about $250/Gal. or more depending on how good of quality you want.   Paint only a little past the damaged area, then clear the whole bumper.

Now, most importantly, my real advise.  Take the car to a body shop.  It won't be much more expensive than buying all the stuff you need and the car should get repaired to a better quality since this is all new to you.  You really need to practice some of this stuff under the direction of someone who knows what they are doing.   Plus if you do this with bad results then the bumper will have to be stripped of all paint to repair it.  This means the fenders and hood might need to be blended on for color match (depending on color) and this repair price could easily double or more just because you tried to do it yourself.

Take it to a body shop!!  Take it to a body shop!!  Take it to a body shop!!  Take it to a body shop!!   Take it to a body shop!!    Hahaha   

P.S. Did I mention Take it to a body shop!!

[440]

What car was damage in the first place? What color?

If it's metallic I'd be buying a plane ticket to another state 

[birdsandbees]

Man I called that right... 

It was either that or you took a dealer car home on Friday night, so I had a 50/50 chance of getting it right! 

[hemi-hampton]

He PM'ed me & I PMed him back a big long detailed instructions similar to what Garner above told him. except I would not sand a plastic bumper with 80 grit unless it has heavy duty damage, if minor try sanding with 150 grit or 180,220. I say this because if you ever sanded a plastic bumper with 80 grit right down into the plastic then you know how it gets that rough hairy fuzzy look which you will see with your first coat of primer & then your gotta bury that rough plastic with lots of heavy coats of primer to get rid of it. LEON.

[garner7555]

He PM'ed me & I PMed him back a big long detailed instructions similar to what Garner above told him. except I would not sand a plastic bumper with 80 grit unless it has heavy duty damage, if minor try sanding with 150 grit or 180,220. I say this because if you ever sanded a plastic bumper with 80 grit right down into the plastic then you know how it gets that rough hairy fuzzy look which you will see with your first coat of primer & then your gotta bury that rough plastic with lots of heavy coats of primer to get rid of it. LEON.

I agree.     I assumed the damage was fairly severe since he didn't try to just brush touch up paint on it and hope for the best.  hahaha   Your right, the plastic "fuzzies" are a headache, but can be addressed as long as the person is willing to prime and block twice.   

[Brock Lee]

Go to a dealership for the same brand car. Ask someone in the garage who they use to fix paint issues on the lot cars. Call that person and meet them somewhere. let them tackle the job.

Dealerships have problems with cars getting scratched and dinged. They tend to use the best talent in the area to touch these problems up. I know guys that pull trailers with all their paint gear in it and drive around doing lot repairs day in and day out within a region. The successful ones are so good, you can't spot their work easily. You may get a hint in the surface being smoother where they worked, but that is about it.

[Dino]

I was in auto body as well but the guys covered the how to's already so I'm not going there.

What I do want to add is that I find it far worse to hide your mistake and try to sneak your way out of it instead of owning up and taking the beating.

I've made the same mistake as a young man and I wish I could take it back.

Take the hit and offer to have a good body shop fix the damage on your dime, no matter how painful that will be.

If I had a kid who damaged my car, even when he wasn't supposed to even look at the car, I will be mad to be sure, but we'd get passed that. But it won't be anything compared to the disappointment (and my hellish fury) when I find out he tried to hide it and get away with it. Trust is very hard to rebuild.

I know this is though, like I said I've been there. But it's the right thing to do. Pain goes away, arguments get settled, distrust lingers forever. Suck it up and put your big boy pants on.   

[Shroomba]

Ya the touch up paint mixed with 50% reducer definitely wasn't enough lol. Sherwin Williams was closed to day, but ill get the paint and clear from them tomorrow morning or the clear from the OEM. Worst comes to worst ill have to use the spray paint clear for now.

It just has to last for 6 months and ill come clean about it and tell them ill repaint and clear the entire thing properly. Im owing up to my mistakes by going to vast lengths to fix the damages. I'd be a bastard, if I was one of those rebellious kids who were like "Ya, I crashed yo sh*t fix it yo damn self, im out chair" lol.

I got a quote from a few body shops and I can't afford it. I tried to negotiate but they weren't having it.

Does any one have an example of unmatching clear coat?

[Shroomba]

I went to Sherwin Williams to get the paint and was informed by the rep that there are over 100 alternates to my paint code and ill have to bring it there for him to match it with the deck of cards....delaying my paint another day....

He also told me that ill have to sand all the clear off and reprime for it to stick, which I initially thought was true but I don't want to shoot myself in the foot. I told him I lightly sanded the clear with 1000 grit and planned to paint and clear over it and he responded with it won't stick for more than a week?!?!?

Is that true?

Can I lightly wet sand the clear with 800-1000 grit and paint over it?

[Dino]

Yes you can paint and clear over sanded clear. You have to sand it in such a way that the clear is totally flat, no shine and no texture left. 600 to 800 wet depending on the brand and you can finish it off with 1000 wet before paint or a (wet) gray 3M scotchbrite. Shoot the color in dry even coats, like a mist. It'll lay the metallic nicely. You need to know what you're doing to lay down wet metallic coats so I wouldn't go there as you'll risk making the color look cloudy. Mist the color coats until everything looks uniform, then clear coat the entire bumper. You can remove something small like the fuel filler door and take it to the paint shop. They can then polish it and match the color.

[hemi-hampton]

Never heard of 100 alternatives on any color. Heard of 12 at the most. What kind of car is this & what's the paint code. I'll look it up myself. LEON.

[Lennard]

Never heard of 100 alternatives on any color. Heard of 12 at the most. What kind of car is this & what's the paint code. I'll look it up myself. LEON.

He's probably hella exaggerating.

[Shroomba]

Two cars were damaged... fresh out of school we were burning out, drifting, being stupid with a few friends and a couple chicks in the cars; both of us were going down a two lane road... I was behind him trying to keep up and we both turned on a gravel/shale road and slid into a fence and landed in a shale ditch. The damages probably should have been worse but drove it off with a bumper scrape, a bottom bumper curb rash, and a 1000+ rock chips in the bumper.

Im in charge of fixing the 2013 toyota corolla with the paint code 040.

[garner7555]

Never heard of 100 alternatives on any color. Heard of 12 at the most. What kind of car is this & what's the paint code. I'll look it up myself. LEON.

I think he got someone that normally deals in house paint.          That's crazy to tell him he has to sand down the whole bumper, that totally does away with the option to blend.   

[440]

Sounds like most of the damage is to the bumper, probably best to fix and repaint the whole thing. Rock chips are a lot worse than a scratch.

[Shroomba]

I got enough paint and clear to hit the entire bumper. The pictures are after the Bondo, primer, and touch up cut with reducer. It doesn't look that bad.

Correct me if I'm wrong, next step wet sand the entire thing with 1000 grit...cut a bit deeper on the rockchips into it not shiny and slightly dull. Then dust paint on those areas, wait 30 minutes and clear the entire thing. Right? I would go higher grit but I'm out of funds and I only have 80,180,220,500,1000,1200, and 2000

[Shroomba]