#s matching '68 RT 440 rotisserie restoration - way over my head, HELP!

[DAmatt]

Hello everyone,

I'm glad that after years (literally) of problems, I can once more access this forum! I joined about two - three years ago, when I almost bought a '69 RT, but the deal went south. Last fall, however, I became  the proud owner of a '68 RT 440, numbers matching, which sat in a barn since 1987! It's the car in this blog!: http://barnfinds.com/project-package-1968-dodge-charger-rt/#comments

The good:
Interior is pretty intact, and in a great state, considering its age. I didn't believe my ears when the radio came to life, or when the vacuum headlights worked, and worked well.
The body panels are lined up nearly perfect (I've seen many boot lids diverge from the body).
It has working power steering, disc brakes, and also (not working) original A/C.
The car runs, steers and brakes - at least in the parking lot.
The engine started instantly, even though it was cold.

The bad:
Car needs total restoration to be perfect.
The engine pops when revved, the original carb is replaced by an Edelbrock unit (Carter AVS in the box, though) - I think the engine needs to be opened up, and overhauled.
Trans would probably need freshening up.
8 3/4 Sure Grip is a one wheel wonder at this point.
Almost all gauges don't work, nothing in the middle panel (where the A/C switch is located) works, but most of all

The ugly:
the car has rust on almost every panel, a frame rail, and the torsion bar mount. When I originally saw the car, I said it was in OK shape, but on closer inspection, the situation was grim.

I really need help with the body! I bought a few books on mopar restoration, but I don't know the name of every panel in the body shell, and when I'm on AMD's or classicindustries' website, I'm not sure what to order.

The car has been stripped to the bone, and sandblasted to see every rust hole. The main issue is with the rear window, everything is rusted through, and I can't find replacements. The car is being restored at a Jaguar dealership (so that's good!), but they do this as a favor for me (I'm a Jag guy, have an '04 XJR with the KB 2.6H blower upgrade:) ), they're not usually dealing with old cars. They have begun to try and fix the holes, even by fabricating panels, luckily I found the name for a few (sail panels, par example).

One more thing to add is that I am in Romania, Europe, and this is my first incursion into US cars. And my first restoration. And I'm just beginning to see the magnitude of this project, way too much for a first timer, even after reading the mopar books.

SOOOOO.....,

Would it be too much to ask you to take a look at a few pictures of the car, as it is now, and tell me what parts should I order? What can be saved, what must be replaced? We want to keep as much as possible of the original metal, so patch panels would be great. But let me reiterate, I would be very much obliged especially if you could help me with a solution on that nasty rear window rust!

Thank you so much for your time reading this (loooong) post, here's the link to my photobucket album; the album "charger" shows the car after it was taken apart, and sandblasted. The general page shows various pictures of the car, from when it had arrived, till it was taken apart for sandblasting.

http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/dimatei/library/Charger?sort=3&page=1

Thank you in advance,

Cheers!

[birdsandbees]

The "rotisserie" is neat!

Well, based on what I ordered in metal for my 69 'Bee last month, plus rear frame rails on Thursday, you're looking at at least 12K Cdn for AMD metal + quarter panels on top.

Looks like you need full floor from firewall back to the rear bumper. Front floor, over axle pan and trunk floor.. as well as trunk extensions. Probably the fuel tank brace set, inner and outer wheel wells, door sills, don't see your doors but maybe door skins.. etc. Maybe fender splash shields, rear foot wells etc and an upper cowl (in front of windshield). Don't want to give you part numbers as there are probably some different for the charger.

Those rear frame rails look pretty good, except for the very back. They can possibly be fixed up from the inside when the trunk floor is out and cleaned up on the outside. How are the rear leaf spring shackle mounts? How is the Torsion bar cross member and the front frame rails? Look for cracks on the passenger side rail where the K frame bolts in.

If you need rear frame rails, could be a wait, AMD couldn't supply last week and I cleaned Classics in California out of their last pair on Friday.

[comet_666]

Browsing the pictures quick it looks like it will need either replaced or repaired
Full quarters, Full rockers, inner and outer wheel houses, trunk floor, trunk floor extensions, rear frame rail (passenger side), Sail panels, roof skin, filler panel (Dutchman Panel), floors and an upper cowl panel.

That is just at a quick glance.

Luckily AMD makes all of those parts. They will need a lot of massaging as well. My car was worse than this and ended up costing about 25K to get it in paint.

[hemi-hampton]

Rear Valance & Valance corners (the piece under rear bumper) you'll need. For me I couldn't work on it with that funky rotisserie in my way. I'd take it off & put on a rotisserie that gives you lots of access & room to work without being inconvienance by bars in the way. If you do put it on another rotisserie I'd suggest putting sub frame connectors on first to help prevent flexing of body or weld a temporary bar on inside of car across top of door opening on both sides & across back going the other way or combination of both would be best. Have fun. LEON.

[DAmatt]

Thank you for all your replies, they gave me a starting point!

First of all, please let me apologize if I misused the term "rotisserie", I am really new into restoring cars, from what I read, a rotisserie lets you have access to the car from all angles, even though it's not the classical turn-style I have seen before. If I am mistaken, please correct me, I have never upheld something untrue, so please tell me if this is not a rotisserie restoration.

Now, from looking at the pictures of the rear window, what do you think I should do? Par example, the roof skin is eaten through near the rear window, but is intact otherwise. Basically, every panel has some rust on/through it. I want to preserve as much of the original metal, but I also want the car not to look less than perfect. If I choose to change all body panels affected by rust, then I'll have a basically reconstructed car, with no original skin on it... That's why I'm asking if there are other ways to do this. Are there?

Thanks guys!

[green69rt]

I can't see your pics but from the various comments you should probably build a frame jig to set the car on before starting work  I attached a pic of what I'm talking about (thanks to
Unrulyprocuda.)  It will help to keep the car from twisting while you cut off parts and attach new pieces.  It also supports the car at multiple points. It can also be used to provide reference points to align the new parts.   You really want the car sheet metal to be strong before mounting on a rotisserie (see second pic.)

[hemi-hampton]

Green69, That 2nd pic of yours you must of stole from me. That's a 1970 B5 blue Cuda I restored on Rotisserie about 10 years ago. Notice the subframe connectors, ect, ect. LEON.

[hemi-hampton]

Here's a pic of undercarriage & car painted. Notice the boxed in rear leaf spring mount area & front frame boxed in front of torsion bar & trans mount. I welded a heavy duty thick steel plate to floor where pinion snubber meets floor. LEON.

[green69rt]

Here's a pic of undercarriage & car painted. Notice the boxed in rear leaf spring mount area & front frame boxed in front of torsion bar & trans mount. I welded a heavy duty thick steel plate to floor where pinion snubber meets floor. LEON.

Looks like you covered all the bases.  Did you do the metal work while the car was on the spinner?  I was afraid to try that.  Sorry I didn't give you credit.