Kick down linkage adjustment question. Update

[b5blue]

  Okay just did my head swap to Sidewinders and ready to tweak kick down. Running 727 with Sidewinder Shifter, stock K.D. linkage setup from my 440 w CH4B/Proform 750 w Holley adapter bracket and recommended AR taller throttle bracket. (Bracket: http://www.manciniracing.com/thbrwikido4v.html )
 Here is my question: Should the slotted rod that runs from the bell crank to the carb's throttle/transmission stud have a small gap or be touching at idle position?
My best buddy Steve who rebuilt the transmission and owned/raced the car many years said leave a gap. I have but I'm not getting kick down action? I've changed from 6BBL to the CH4B/4BBL retaining the kick down linkage from the 6BBL and not certain it's the same as a 4BBL set?
Steve owns Trico Transmission over 35 years and convinced me NOT to use the Lokar stuff I bought and I don't want to mess up this 727 he just rebuilt. (I can post pics if needed.) I had bunches of info bookmarked but lost them when my Toshiba crashed not long ago.    

[BLK 68 R/T]

There should not be a gap in the slot.

Disconnect the transmission kick down lever from the linkage. Hold it all the way forward and wire it temporarily in that position against the stop. Then adjust the kick down linkage so the rear of the slot in the kick down lever is touching the carb stud. Then un-wire the lever and test the linkage to make sure it doesn't bind anywhere and everything functions freely  

You may also need to adjust the throttle cable again once you are done with the kick down linkage.

Edit: forgot to mention, on the throttle cable bracket, there should be a 3/16 hole that you put a drill bit or piece of rod though to keep the kick down pivot in the proper position while the adjustments to the linkage is being made.

[b5blue]

Thanks! I'll try it tomorrow and report back. 

[BLK 68 R/T]

See my edit above as well 

[cdr]

the six pack linkage is shorter IIRC just like the 2 bbl linkage is shorter.

[BSB67]

the six pack linkage is shorter IIRC just like the 2 bbl linkage is shorter.

Correct.  You might be able to get it to work, but the rod from the 6 bbl is shorter than the one used on the 4 bbl set-up.

[b5blue]

  Again thanks, I bought coupler nuts and threaded rod for just in case. I can shorten any rod and extend it to any size. The lock down hole for the bell crank is not on the new higher throttle bracket but that vertical rod is just long enough to position the bell crank to an all forward position. I'll see how far I can extend the slotted fitting today. 
 

[b5blue]

Correction, I found a Bell crank locating hole on the throttle bracket. 

[b5blue]

Found a good Factory adjustment video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FY9WTWayCC8&ebc=ANyPxKqZIwh06ziia2uPldP6Hr25GyGq-O67JoQbHOFfS1Fxz8gkDJToLvHitC2JKKC3A3lY6CUB4dtcn28bVf0jvqZePlBdSw

[b5blue]

Thanks guys, pouring rain now but kicking down.  Not spot on but getting closer. 

[John_Kunkel]

Then adjust the kick down linkage so the rear of the slot in the kick down lever is touching the carb stud.

And be sure there is a spring pulling the linkage up against the back of the stud with the choke fully open.

Carb cable should be properly adjusted before adjusting the TP linkage.

[b5blue]

  I get ya John...bit of a dance checking back and forth as adjustments made to everything. The bell crank holes won't align with the throttle bracket at all but I can gauge visually. (Must be wanting a 4BBL bell crank not 6BBL.)
  I've posted in "want to buy parts" for 4BBL rod and bell crank but this stuff is looking just long enough to work.

[b5blue]

  Oldcarnut saw my "Wanted" post and sent me a rod that's 8 1/2" long. A drastic improvement in positioning from my 8" rod. It allows shortening the vertical rod that travels down the rear of the engine and that let me change the position of the bell crank. (Closer to the alignment holes.) That also put the new rod in a better position as now it's not touching the throttle bracket when at idle position. So now I'm NOT at the end limit of any adjustments despite having the taller throttle cable bracket for the CH4B intake/Proform 750 with 1/2" spacer. 
  With the new heads solving my ping problem and this longer rod on the kick down linkage I can start to finally test tune at wide open. 

[b5blue]

  Thanks for the advise guys. Today I was able to get under the car and check things out. By cutting about 3/8" off the vertical rod I was able to fit a nail in the bellcrank alignment holes to get things lined up close for that part of the set up. The new longer to carb rod took the adjustment the old one would never have reached and now the 727 is down shifting as it should and driving well.    With choke, idle and kickdown set now, I can start adjusting the 750 and ignition for performance.

[oldcarnut]

  Glad it worked 

[b5blue]

Thank you David! I'd never guessed that 1/2" could have that big of an effect. 
I found out there are several versions of just about all the parts. With tall and short ball socket turnbuckles, possibly 3 throttle bellcranks, carb and vertical rods shaped/different length and lower bellcrank/pivot arms at several ratios/styles. I can see why there is trouble +40 years later, the arch of the carb throttle stud has to convert to the throttle pressure pivot arm's sweep.
After I'd bought the cable/bracket setup I found my Sidewinder shifter used up needed areas for install so any cable setup would require extra engineering at the least. It didn't help that I couldn't be certain my 6BBL kickdown linkage had any exactly correct parts and my transmission was 71 up vintage only that it worked.