QA1 front suspension kit

[NitroNeal]

Wondering if anyone has the complete kit in their car? I've done a couple Reilly and they work well, just a little to racey for long highway trips. Stock disc brakes will work fine for me. Also thinking about the borgeson p.s. box. Anybody driving this setup? Feedback would be great. Just went to Mats and only saw one aftermarket K frame (Hemi Dart).
Thanks, Neal.

[myk]

Check with member MSRacing89; he not only runs their stuff but road races his car, too...

[Derwud]

I bought a QA1 Subframe and lower arms, Borgenson Box and Hotchkis for everything else suspension wise. Can't wait to get it all together and feel the difference.

[crj1968]

Redmist has the whole setup in his car- I was able to check it out the other day and it looked REALLY nice.

Might hit him up and see what he has to say about it.

[MSRacing89]

Check with member MSRacing89; he not only runs their stuff but road races his car, too...

I helped with some of the initial R & D on this front end in partnership with QA1.  That being said I have the very first one to roll off the assembly line and a slightly modified one at that.  I altered the lower control hex position and shifted some other things around to my liking during the R & D process and gave QA1 that feedback.  This would be incorporated into what you receive.  You would get a fully developed, very nice product.

You will feel the difference instantly.......that being said, let me give you some pointers.  

Swap the large K-member mounting bolts they send you up to grade 8 and get some 1/8" washers for said bolts.  Grab your breaker bar and tighten those things as much as possible.  Now for the common guy this is overkill, but my tied down 600hp 440 would work the left rear bolt just slightly loose on a heavy autocross or road course outing.  

Don't be afraid to experiment with caster settings.  If you run factory settings initially, great, but most likely the car will want something that will be unusual.  Now I run 285's on the front, quick ratio arms, with aggressive suspension so mine is amplified.  For example we run almost a 2º of caster split with 3º of camber on race day.  Slightly less aggressive for street use, but we still run about 1½º caster split to keep me from fighting the car.  

Hold the motor up with a pick, unbolt your PS box and tie up, get under there and bolt it up!  Took my buddies and I about 2hrs.  

[Mike DC]

I've done a couple Reilly and they work well, just a little to racey for long highway trips

I'm curious about what your specific objection is here.  


The RMS setups don't have rubber bushings IIRC.    

[NitroNeal]

Shopped around and they've come out with a complete kit. Summit has them "on sale" seemed like the thing to do, so I pulled the trigger on the whole shebang. Now if I can find a half price sale on a borgeson box.

[myk]

Shopped around and they've come out with a complete kit. Summit has them "on sale" seemed like the thing to do, so I pulled the trigger on the whole shebang. Now if I can find a half price sale on a borgeson box.

I've been WAITING for Bergman to offer some sort of discount on their conversion kit.  When and if they do I'll buy it for sure.  Maybe we should get a group buy going?

[NitroNeal]

Group buy on borgeson box? I could be up for that. I've seen it happen on forums before. Never been in on one. How does it work so nobody gets hosed?

[garner7555]

I bought the borgeson box at Summit for less than 600.  It is on back order though.

[71charger_fan]

I bought the whole setup back when they were still made by CAP.

[NitroNeal]

I bought the borgeson box at Summit for less than 600.  It is on back order though.

Yes, I see them down to 589. from 650.

I bought the whole setup back when they were still made by CAP.

So how do you like it?

I've done a couple Reilly and they work well, just a little to racey for long highway trips

I'm curious about what your specific objection is here. 


The RMS setups don't have rubber bushings IIRC.   

Little too choppy of a ride, must admit it has pretty low profile tires that don't help the ride. Going with 15" magnums on my Charger, 245/60 front,275/60 rears.

[myk]

Group buy on borgeson box? I could be up for that. I've seen it happen on forums before. Never been in on one. How does it work so nobody gets hosed?

We'd have to contact Bergman Auto craft and propose the idea.  They'd come up with a discounted price, and then tell us how many people would have to buy it in order to qualify for the discount.  The trick is they'd have to come up with a price we actually like, and then everyone who agrees has to actually pay.  If buyers fall through no one loses anything or gets hosed; the discounted price just wouldn't go through.  I'm not sure how many of us are actually willing to buy the Borgeson box, though...

[Derwud]

I have to call them about my unit. I will ask him about a group buy..

[myk]

I have to call them about my unit. I will ask him about a group buy..

Right on man, thanks...

[71charger_fan]

Had to get pads welded on to the CAP unit for sway bar bushings and it cracked at the steering box mount and I had to get that repaired. I wouldn't hesitate to buy the QA1 piece as they've had years to update the piece and address early issues. I almost bought a QA1 to replace the CAP, but it was coming out for a repaint and it was easily repaired so I thought buying a new one unnecessary.

[Derwud]

E-Mail sent.

[Mike DC]

I don't see the benefit of using these aftermarket K-frame & LCA's compared to stock.  

If you take any real weight off the factory design then it reduces the streetability of it.  No amount of tubing alloys or strong welds in the QA1 stuff is going to make up for physically smaller pieces, not when it comes to stiffness.  The durability & crashworthiness of the QA1 stuff is probably worse than stock too. 

Somebody on another thread said that the QA1 version had to be somewhat beefed up for durability (read: heavier) compared to the original CAP versions.  How much weight does it really save now? 



The biggest source of weight that the original front end can afford to lose (without compromising streetability) is the factory steering box & linkage.  I'm not a big cheerleader for the RMS setup but at least it converts to a Mustang rack.  

[ws23rt]

I don't see the benefit of using these aftermarket K-frame & LCA's compared to stock.  

If you take any real weight off the factory design then it reduces the streetability of it.  No amount of tubing alloys or strong welds in the QA1 stuff is going to make up for physically smaller pieces, not when it comes to stiffness.  The durability & crashworthiness of the QA1 stuff is probably worse than stock too. 

Somebody on another thread said that the QA1 version had to be somewhat beefed up for durability (read: heavier) compared to the original CAP versions.  How much weight does it really save now? 



This makes a lot of practical sense to me. If weight reduction is the intent for a street driven car it would be a waste of time and money.

If one want's to turn one of these 45 year old cars into what we have come to feel and trust as the current norm for a muscle car refer to this.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,101925.1375.html

When one part or system is upgraded 30-40 years it tends to expose all the other systems as being weak links. I know it is fun to add and improve to what we have but putting a rolex watch band on a timax could be money and time tossed for little gain.

[myk]

My understanding is that the aftermarket K frames allow more options with exhaust and suspension modifications.  I never factored weight savings into K frames...

[NitroNeal]

MikeDC, some major things for me is 3* more caster than the stock stuff ever hoped for, the attach points for the lca's is way stronger "a known weak link", the articulating strut rods are like the diff between a model t and the space shuttle. You can get any part of it in pairs and use whatever you think would help, or buy the whole shebang. Lose a little weight in the process? Suits me. The congenitle cap quality problems described above seem to be taken care of. Strength? Watch Hemi cars pull mondo wheelies time after time with these setups. To each his own, you asked, just my .02 .

[Kern Dog]

I hear TWO specific advantages when swapping to these aftermarket K members.

Better exhaust clearance.
Better steering response.

Okay, lets spend $5000 on a replacement crossmember  and steering rack instead of $800 for TTI headers and $850 for a Borgeson steering box. The math doesn't lie. The aftermarket setups are not a wise choice economically.

Andy Finkbeiner is responsible for the development of Tim Werners former car, a bad ass red 68 Valiant road course car with factory based suspension. Rick Ehrenbergs "Green Brick" sure didn't need an RMS setup to beat every car that it embarrassed.

These kits are for guys that want something shiny and new. They do not offer any clear advantage over a well built stock based suspension and steering arrangement. The aftermarket stuff is surely less durable, just look at it.

[Mike DC]

  
Kern Dog nailed what I was getting at.  The aftermarket stuff isn't BAD but I feel the benefits are overrated.  


Similar-to-stock aftermarket front ends offer bigger gains on GM & Ford stuff, where the OEM setup was not as well done as on Mopars.  I'm not saying there are NO gains possible on Mopars, I'm just saying the GM/Ford crowd has a lot more low-hanging fruit to pick than we do.    

The Mopar T-bar setup is quirky and not easy to modify.  But its strong points really are good.  Downright awesome for something designed 50 years ago.  

[NitroNeal]

I hear TWO specific advantages when swapping to these aftermarket K members.

Better exhaust clearance.
Better steering response.

Okay, lets spend $5000 on a replacement crossmember  and steering rack instead of $800 for TTI headers and $850 for a Borgeson steering box. The math doesn't lie. The aftermarket setups are not a wise choice economically.

Andy Finkbeiner is responsible for the development of Tim Werners former car, a bad ass red 68 Valiant road course car with factory based suspension. Rick Ehrenbergs "Green Brick" sure didn't need an RMS setup to beat every car that it embarrassed.


$5,000???  RMS isn't nearly that much. I spent $2177 to my door for the whole handling kit w/ k frame from QA1 w/ single adjust shocks. When we're all done I guess we can line em up and run em thru the cones and see what happens??  Hay, If your set up makes you happy, that's all that counts. I fully intend to enjoy my Charger more than all ya'll put together. I hope you do the same.
Neal. 
These kits are for guys that want something shiny and new. They do not offer any clear advantage over a well built stock based suspension and steering arrangement. The aftermarket stuff is surely less durable, just look at it.

[myk]

Enjoy your Charger more than "all y'all?" Just WTF does that mean?  Don't presume to think you know what I do with my car or what my plans with it are.  I chose the stock K over the other options; doesn't make it the lesser choice than yours....

[c00nhunterjoe]

That tubular front end means jack squat unless you fully modify the remainder of the car. Frame ties, torque boxes, roll cage... at minimum. And the qa1 setup is virtually the same weight as the stock kframe. Unless you are building a dedicated autocross car, its a waste of your money. Even drag cars dont need or use it.... i watch stockers run 9s on stock parts amd superstock hemis deep into 8 second 1/4 miles on stock control arms and k frames.

[Derwud]

To much butt hurting going on here.. Either you want it or you don't.. I am build for future mods. So QA1 subframe and Lower arms with Hotchkis TVS kit including dual adjustable shocks and torsion bars.. I will be doing all the other boxing and bracing later.. Yes I am doing the Borgeson box as well..

Back on subject now...

[c00nhunterjoe]

To much butt hurting going on here.. Either you want it or you don't.. I am build for future mods. So QA1 subframe and Lower arms with Hotchkis TVS kit including dual adjustable shocks and torsion bars.. I will be doing all the other boxing and bracing later.. Yes I am doing the Borgeson box as well..

Back on subject now...

Viper sized brakes? Shock tower braces? Core support? Cage? Rear frame supports. Panhard bar? Frame connectors? Start making the list,  it will get long quick.

[NitroNeal]

Enjoy your Charger more than "all y'all?" Just WTF does that mean?  Don't presume to think you know what I do with my car or what my plans with it are.  I chose the stock K over the other options; doesn't make it the lesser choice than yours....

Yep, soon as I posted that I knew someone would take it out of context. These cars and their parts are so crazy expensive any more it takes a hell of a comitment and a pile of money to own and fix one up. For what it takes to do one really nice you can go but a new scat pack. So you must be commited to the genre of these type muscle cars. What I meant was kind of a yee haw remark of how much I look forward to getting it done and driving/enjoying it. I had one as a daily driver 35 years ago. 250,000 miles in the midwest I rusted it out from under me. Life and family happened. Been stair stepping through cars and projects for years to get to the point I can afford this. You build you car your way, I build my car my way, maybe we meet in the middle? Other people build theirs in ways I don't like, doesn't mean I can't appreciate what they did. Kinda thought what this deal was all about.       So......to answer your question, that's "WTF" I was getting at.
Neal.

[redmist]

I have the QA1 K member, QA1 Upper control arms, Hotchkis Shocks, Strut rods, 1.10 torsion bars, and frame connectors....

The QA1 K member is to me worth the money for the room around the engine alone! I can get to so much more now with the QA1 K then I ever could with the stock stamped, and half crap welded factory K member. could I have stripped, notched, welded, and used the factory K??? Yes. Is it worth my time to do that? Not mine nope. The lower arm mounting points alone are light years ahead of the factory K. The steering box mounting point is light years better then the factory K.


I see two points on this unit that are a little worry some, and that is the mounting ears for the strut rods, and the through bolt design that relies on clamping force to locate. I may drill the front sub-frame and weld location dowels on the unit if it starts to be a problem.

Overall I see it as a very nice piece over the mostly unknown quality of the factory K frames. I was amazed at how crappy the welding was on my factory K member.

[Kern Dog]

Yeah... The "crappy" original parts only lasted 47 years.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I have heard from several people that one of the main bonuses is all of the extra needed access room that you dont have with the stock kframe. So just what exactly cant you access?  the pan drops right down, steering isnt in the way, ive never had a header problem with the kframe, power steering, oil pumps, even low mount alternators... sooo....?

[Kern Dog]

Yeah, what gains are so great that a competent mechanic can't reach with the stock K member? Are these guys so jazzed to run a chevy style rear sump oil pan ? The whole thing about " Easy suspension tuning" with coil overs makes no sense to me either. T bars allow easy height changes. Don't like the shocks? That is a easy fix for FAR less money too.

[Derwud]

No one is talking about a coil over suspension, just about QA1 suspension using Torsion bars. Chrysler had a better design all those years ago, but the industry has totally rethought how suspension and steering work. No reason to stay in the 70's if you can get new stuff.

[c00nhunterjoe]

No one is talking about a coil over suspension, just about QA1 suspension using Torsion bars. Chrysler had a better design all those years ago, but the industry has totally rethought how suspension and steering work. No reason to stay in the 70's if you can get new stuff.

That didnt even begin to address my question.....

[Derwud]

No one is talking about a coil over suspension, just about QA1 suspension using Torsion bars. Chrysler had a better design all those years ago, but the industry has totally rethought how suspension and steering work. No reason to stay in the 70's if you can get new stuff.

That didnt even begin to address my question.....

What is your question? To me it is building block, to better handling car. I could sell my stock for what the QA1 subframe, add the stronger, lighter lower arms, all bonuses..

[Kern Dog]

Maybe I look like a dinosaur to some people...I just prefer the rugged and robust features that the stock k member has. I am not against using beefed up lower control arms, aftermarket upper control arms, stock or dropped spindles. I like the Borgeson steering box in theory, (Never tried one) I like larger torsion bars, larger anti sway bars, better shocks, aftermarket strut rods, etc.
The stock based stuff works for me for far less money than any replacement K member or coli over setup. I have adequate header clearance and can remove the oil pan without lifting the engine. My engine is reliable enough where that isn't really an issue...

[Derwud]

Maybe I look like a dinosaur to some people...I just prefer the rugged and robust features that the stock k member has. I am not against using beefed up lower control arms, aftermarket upper control arms, stock or dropped spindles. I like the Borgeson steering box in theory, (Never tried one) I like larger torsion bars, larger anti sway bars, better shocks, aftermarket strut rods, etc.
The stock based stuff works for me for far less money than any replacement K member or coli over setup. I have adequate header clearance and can remove the oil pan without lifting the engine. My engine is reliable enough where that isn't really an issue...

Clearance issues were not a consideration for me. I couldn't see trusting my suspension to someone who is not an engineer and is only trying to put lipstick on a pig. That is why I like the Hotchkis or QA1 stuff, adding horns to the bull.

[garner7555]

I have heard from several people that one of the main bonuses is all of the extra needed access room that you dont have with the stock kframe. So just what exactly cant you access?  the pan drops right down, steering isnt in the way, ive never had a header problem with the kframe, power steering, oil pumps, even low mount alternators... sooo....?

Taking off the oil filter will probably be the only way I take advantage of the "more room".   What I mean is oil won't run all over the K member because there is open space under it.       I do think that there are a few advantages of the K member, but I will admit that one of the things I like is that it looks cool and matches the pro touring theme on my car.  Plus it didn't cost much more (if I value my time) than blasting, welding seams, building braces & welding them in, and finally powder coating the factory K member.         Like I said, side by side I do see some advantages of the QA1 K member (mounts for lower control arm, ect.) but I will also admit that it looks cool and that played into my decision too.      

[fy469rtse]

I don't think the stock K frame gets in the way of headers,
Mine is fully welded an gussets to areas around steering box flex to k frame , k frame also internally braced between skins,
I think that's taken care of any need to go aftermarket,
Like to keep mine as stock looking as possible as well,
Frame connectors , torque box's , braced rear housing, only because of HP , how far do you really need to go,
Muscle car from the 60's, now drives and handles like the image ,
There's a few other bits and pieces added ,
Like cop steering box fast ratio
Firmfeel drag links, or radious rods , only if you want a good 4 wheel alignment,
Bigger brakes coming next, everything added like frame connectors made to look like they were installed by factory

[c00nhunterjoe]

No one is talking about a coil over suspension, just about QA1 suspension using Torsion bars. Chrysler had a better design all those years ago, but the industry has totally rethought how suspension and steering work. No reason to stay in the 70's if you can get new stuff.

That didnt even begin to address my question.....

What is your question? To me it is building block, to better handling car. I could sell my stock for what the QA1 subframe, add the stronger, lighter lower arms, all bonuses..

Firmfeel will fully weld, blast, strip, reinforce and plate your stock frame for less then the qa1 unit. There are no weight savings stock vs qa1.  All of the lightweight lower arms and other amenities you describe will bolt right onto the stock unit.

[Derwud]

No one is talking about a coil over suspension, just about QA1 suspension using Torsion bars. Chrysler had a better design all those years ago, but the industry has totally rethought how suspension and steering work. No reason to stay in the 70's if you can get new stuff.

That didnt even begin to address my question.....

What is your question? To me it is building block, to better handling car. I could sell my stock for what the QA1 subframe, add the stronger, lighter lower arms, all bonuses..

Firmfeel will fully weld, blast, strip, reinforce and plate your stock frame for less then the qa1 unit. There are no weight savings stock vs qa1.  All of the lightweight lower arms and other amenities you describe will bolt right onto the stock unit.

I will have to check real weights, cause I have held both in my hand and I could swear the QA1 is lighter. And the price difference is not that great between a Firm Feel "fixed" factory part vs QA1 part.

But mostly, why are we arguing this. You like the stock parts, which I like, but I wanted something different..

[c00nhunterjoe]

Its hard to tell an arguement vs a debate at times. I am in no way arguing nor trying to say the qa1 frame is junk.
    I am saying that it is a matter of want, vs actual need as you yourself just pointed out. On a street or even mildly raced car, i have yet to see any actual evidence as to why the qa1 kframe is needed or a cost savings.
    The qa1 frame is built to be direct replacement for the stock kframe which means it has the same geometry as the stock part. The origonal qa1 was lighter but was found to fail so after modifying it weighs the same (or damn near) as the stock one. The weight savings by moving the battery to the trunk would be more cost effective then buying the new frame.
    As far as headers go, just about anything out there will fit without problems caused by the kframe. Starters are the biggest problem which qa1 cannot address with their product.
   It comes down to the bmw clause in most cases- "look at me, ive got a tubular k frame" and that is fine, if you want to buy one, great go for it. But dont think its a must to make your car awesome.

[HPP]

IMO, a lot of this all falls into the nice to have category. But to be honest, so does a 292*/590 cam shaft topped by a high rise single plane and a 1000cfm carb.  Neither are well suited to optimize street life for the application the vast majority of these cars are used for. Just because some people want to use them in a street car, it makes them feel good about ownership, and they actually drive the car, why yank their chain about it.

On the flip side, there can be some very distinct advantages to using some of these parts when the car is used in specific applications. A 4000 stall convertor isn't the most street friendly item, but if you are bracket racing it regularly, it is a huge benefit. Swapping K frames for improved rigidity at reduced weight, again, a potential benefit that some may want. Is choosing this any different than choosing to use a carbon fiber gauge set? Its small potatoes in the overall scheme, but it is still an improvement. What about a $1500 lightweight forged racing wheel that saves 3 pounds over a similar $300 cast wheel? where do we draw the line? We can't because each of our needs, budgets, and choices are different.

There are plenty of areas in these cars that provide a poor return on price for the benefits they provide. I'm always surprised at how suspension and chassis part choices get beat up  while some think nothing of using the same approach with engine or drive line decisions.

[garner7555]

IMO, a lot of this all falls into the nice to have category. But to be honest, so does a 292*/590 cam shaft topped by a high rise single plane and a 1000cfm carb.  Neither are well suited to optimize street life for the application the vast majority of these cars are used for. Just because some people want to use them in a street car, it makes them feel good about ownership, and they actually drive the car, why yank their chain about it.

On the flip side, there can be some very distinct advantages to using some of these parts when the car is used in specific applications. A 4000 stall convertor isn't the most street friendly item, but if you are bracket racing it regularly, it is a huge benefit. Swapping K frames for improved rigidity at reduced weight, again, a potential benefit that some may want. Is choosing this any different than choosing to use a carbon fiber gauge set? Its small potatoes in the overall scheme, but it is still an improvement. What about a $1500 lightweight forged racing wheel that saves 3 pounds over a similar $300 cast wheel? where do we draw the line? We can't because each of our needs, budgets, and choices are different.

There are plenty of areas in these cars that provide a poor return on price for the benefits they provide. I'm always surprised at how suspension and chassis part choices get beat up  while some think nothing of using the same approach with engine or drive line decisions.

Very well said!         We all have different taste, even though we all love Chargers.

[Kern Dog]

I respect that some admit that the aftermarket stuff was bought because it is pretty or shiny. I bought the wheels that I have for the same reason! I just hope that those guys know what they are getting for their money.

[Mike DC]

here are plenty of areas in these cars that provide a poor return on price for the benefits they provide. I'm always surprised at how suspension and chassis part choices get beat up  while some think nothing of using the same approach with engine or drive line decisions.

It's the muscle car hobby.  We reject making sense almost on principle.  



Look at these two pics.  Same size (for the sake of argument) of Pro Street tires, two very different ways of making them fit.  One method just hacks the quarter skins & outer wheelhousings, preserving the frame, floor, axle, rear suspension, etc.  The other way literally saws out the rear half of the chassis & tosses everything in the dumpster.  

We call the second method the "professional" way to "do it right".  

We call the first method "butchering up a good car just to fit some tires."    

[NitroNeal]

WOW, did this thread go around the world. I started it looking for some input from somebody actually owning and driving  a complete QA1 setup hopefully with the borgeson box. Haven't really seen that yet. Got lots of opinions, even got a WTF from one guy. Guess I just need to get mine  together and report back.

[Derwud]

WOW, did this thread go around the world. I started it looking for some input from somebody actually owning and driving  a complete QA1 setup hopefully with the borgeson box. Haven't really seen that yet. Got lots of opinions, even got a WTF from one guy. Guess I just need to get mine  together and report back.

Basically... Good luck, I waiting for my Borgeson box so I can swap complete K members..

[HPP]

WOW, did this thread go around the world. I started it looking for some input from somebody actually owning and driving  a complete QA1 setup hopefully with the borgeson box. Haven't really seen that yet. Got lots of opinions, even got a WTF from one guy. Guess I just need to get mine  together and report back.

There is a member on here that was involved of the development of the QA1 unit, has it in his car, and runs it hard. However, he does not get on here regularly. You might need to do some digging to find details from him on it, but there are some here. Screen name slips my mind right now.

[myk]

WOW, did this thread go around the world. I started it looking for some input from somebody actually owning and driving  a complete QA1 setup hopefully with the borgeson box. Haven't really seen that yet. Got lots of opinions, even got a WTF from one guy. Guess I just need to get mine  together and report back.

There is a member on here that was involved of the development of the QA1 unit, has it in his car, and runs it hard. However, he does not get on here regularly. You might need to do some digging to find details from him on it, but there are some here. Screen name slips my mind right now.

MSRacing89.

Here is his car:
http://www.hotrod.com/cars/featured/1203phr-1968-dodge-charger/

[garner7555]

I installed the K member and lower control arms in my car.   Borgeson box is ordered, but on backorder.       Unfortunately it will be 2017 before I get my car back on the road to give you a report.

[myk]

The Borgeson box is back ordered until 2017?!

[Kern Dog]

No, that is when Garner gets Parole.   

[garner7555]

The Borgeson box is back ordered until 2017?!

No, sorry to scare you MYK.  It was suppose to ship out April 5th but they keep changing the date.   I think they are saying late May now, so it may end up being next year before I get one.       The reason I can't test drive until 2017 is I'm just starting to reassemble my car after paint.  I am shooting to be driving it next summer.    

[myk]

Ah.  Well it serves me right for procrastinating the purchase.  I hope everything gets sorted out for you...

[Kern Dog]

I stand corrected.   

[NitroNeal]

The Borgeson box is back ordered until 2017?!

No, sorry to scare you MYK.  It was suppose to ship out April 5th but they keep changing the date.   I think they are saying late May now, so it may end up being next year before I get one.       The reason I can't test drive until 2017 is I'm just starting to reassemble my car after paint.  I am shooting to be driving it next summer.    

Looking @ Jegs last night, they were showing 5/17 as ship date.

[NitroNeal]

WOW, did this thread go around the world. I started it looking for some input from somebody actually owning and driving  a complete QA1 setup hopefully with the borgeson box. Haven't really seen that yet. Got lots of opinions, even got a WTF from one guy. Guess I just need to get mine  together and report back.

There is a member on here that was involved of the development of the QA1 unit, has it in his car, and runs it hard. However, he does not get on here regularly. You might need to do some digging to find details from him on it, but there are some here. Screen name slips my mind right now.

Thanks, neat article. I'm going to do a little milder version of that. Not that much tire or brake, prob. 1.03 torsion bars. I am ready to buy the box, just haven't decided to get in line yet. I'm doing a nut/bolt rotisere and I'm buying building sub assemblies first. Just don't want fresh painted body ready to go and have to but bunch of stuff.
MSRacing89.

Here is his car:
http://www.hotrod.com/cars/featured/1203phr-1968-dodge-charger/

[Derwud]

The Borgeson box is back ordered until 2017?!

No, sorry to scare you MYK.  It was suppose to ship out April 5th but they keep changing the date.   I think they are saying late May now, so it may end up being next year before I get one.       The reason I can't test drive until 2017 is I'm just starting to reassemble my car after paint.  I am shooting to be driving it next summer.    

Looking @ Jegs last night, they were showing 5/17 as ship date.

Bergman gave me a 3 week ETA this week. Borgenson is moving from CT to NC, so that is why the delay..

[MSRacing89]

WOW, did this thread go around the world. I started it looking for some input from somebody actually owning and driving  a complete QA1 setup hopefully with the borgeson box. Haven't really seen that yet. Got lots of opinions, even got a WTF from one guy. Guess I just need to get mine  together and report back.

I understand......very difficult to get many straight answers in the Mopar community, only a handful of guys that have even turned left and right in the country at speed.  Bottom line is, everything you are planning on doing is a good move.  You will enjoy it even if the thing never hits the track.  PM if have any questions or need any pointers.

[NitroNeal]

I understand......very difficult to get many straight answers in the Mopar community, only a handful of guys that have even turned left and right in the country at speed.  Bottom line is, everything you are planning on doing is a good move.  You will enjoy it even if the thing never hits the track.  PM if have any questions or need any pointers.

Thanks man, Pulled the trigger and ordered box from Jegs. They gave me 5/18 ship date, drop ship from manufacturer.

[garner7555]

My estimated ship date for the Boreson box went from 4/1 to 5/18 but I was pleasantly surprised when it shipped out yesterday and arrived today.    Haven't had time to look it over or install yet, but I am happy that it's here!   

[myk]

My estimated ship date for the Boreson box went from 4/1 to 5/18 but I was pleasantly surprised when it shipped out yesterday and arrived today.    Haven't had time to look it over or install yet, but I am happy that it's here!   

Time to break out the credit card again...

[NitroNeal]

My estimated ship date for the Boreson box went from 4/1 to 5/18 but I was pleasantly surprised when it shipped out yesterday and arrived today.    Haven't had time to look it over or install yet, but I am happy that it's here!   

What size pitman shaft did you get?

[garner7555]

My estimated ship date for the Boreson box went from 4/1 to 5/18 but I was pleasantly surprised when it shipped out yesterday and arrived today.    Haven't had time to look it over or install yet, but I am happy that it's here!   

What size pitman shaft did you get?

I got the small shaft version, like would have been factory on my 69.   I ordered it back in Feb. or March.   

[NitroNeal]

My estimated ship date for the Boreson box went from 4/1 to 5/18 but I was pleasantly surprised when it shipped out yesterday and arrived today.    Haven't had time to look it over or install yet, but I am happy that it's here!   

What size pitman shaft did you get?

I got the small shaft version, like would have been factory on my 69.   I ordered it back in Feb. or March.   



Thanks, I'm replacing everything and using the bigger tie rod ends so I went with the bigger shaft.

[1974dodgecharger]

Good read  I want it because my front hole on that idler arm what ever that front torsi9n bar is actually welded on because its been wallored out, lol....I dont see an ulissue with headers.....so I didn't understand more room when stock is fine.  Oil chwnges now will be a breeze, lol....other that....I needed a new k member anyways.....

[NitroNeal]

WOW, steering box just showed up! Original date was supposed to be 4/18. Maybe  they got their move done and are up to speed. Glad I'm gathering parts ahead of time. Any one find a good deal on the large diameter Pitman arm?

[RIDELIKEHELL]

Anyone install a power rack and pinion on the QA1 K? I see you would have to notch the cross tube but it can be done