Door glass problem

[Dino]

My car has tinted glass but the passeneger door glass was replaced with clear glass somewhere down the line.  I found a nice used piece of tinted glass for it so when I went to swap it I noticed neither glass has the hole for the window stop.  The clear glass had a window stop mounted in place of the plastic rivet on the slider bracket.  Now I'm not sure if this was stock on some b bodies or how it even works, but since there's a stop on the manual window regulator everything was fine.

I now installed power windows and there's no stop on the regulator so I need to figure out what to do.  Either I figure out exactly where the door glass needs to stop in the up position so I can weld some type of stop on the regulator, or I find some really good glue and stick something on the glass where the hole is supposed to be.  

I hear some glues would be strong enough to do this and it would be the easiest solution by far.  However if the glue fails and I power roll my window up while the door is open then what's stopping the glass from being pushed up too far?

Any suggestions?

[PlainfieldCharger]

Diamond tip bit?

[Dino]

I could be wrong but I thought you couldn't cut or drill glass once it's tempered.  There's a glass shop not too far from here so I'll swing by there and ask.

[PlainfieldCharger]

I thought the old cell phone guys used to drill the side windows to install the phone antenna..

[Dino]

Interesting!

That would certainly make things a lot easier so I'll try that route first.  Thanks!   

[Back N Black]

The glass without the hole for the stop is from a 68, 69 was the first year with the stop. I guess 68 chargers with power windows had no window stop??

[Dino]

That's very interesting!  I wonder how this worked then.  Maybe having a stop/rivet combo on the center track then as it was with this glass?

I put driver and passenger side glas side by side to compare.  There are some minor differences.  The bottom corners are cut differently and the top of the glass is more curved on the driver's side which has the stop hole.  I don't think it matters much a we're talking very little material here but it's interesting to see a difference.

I'll have to investigate some more and see if I can get away without drilling the glass.

[Dino]

Drilling is out. It is possible through a whole heating and cooling process but the cost would be a bit high to say the least.

All I can do now is cut the stop off and glue it onto the glass. Any recommendations for a good plastic to glass glue?

[miller time]

What about Gorilla super glue or construction adhesive?
http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-super-glue
http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-construction-adhesive

Both sound promising and the super glue is "impact tough" which sounds perfect to me

You can't take apart the regulator and adjust its internal stops can you? 

[Dino]

Alright I'll give one of those a shot. Thanks!

The manual regulators have stops on them but the power regulators don't oddly enough. The motor will disengage from the regulator if you push it too far. And that would be bad!

[miller time]

No problem I hope they work, I just know gorrila makes some sticky stuff, and I would sand the glass before applying it so it has something to bite into, PS I'm not a glass expert. You could call a window replacement shop or possibly use the glue for rear view mirrors?
What about making a bracket to like catch the channel on the bottom of the glass and riveting it to the inner door frame   just an idea

[Dino]

Good idea on the bracket. I'll have to see what I can come up with. I know 68s didn't have the stop going through the glass so how did that work?

When I spoke to the glass guys they said to be careful manipulating the glass. A scratch is one thing but once you disturb it too much it may shatter. That said I don't think a quick rub with sandpaper would do any damage and it'll give the glue something to bite into.

I thought about the rear view mirror glue but it's not all that strong when you put pressure on it. It's easy enough to pull a mirror off the glass and this plastic stop will be hitting the channel stop pretty hard.

[miller time]

Let's see here....
Find where the channel attached to the bottom of the glass, stops when the window is up where you want it, then make a L bracket out of maybe 1\8 and add a brace to it, if you can weld, then trim the bracket to clear the glass but still firmly catche the top of then bracket on the bottom of the glass, and attach it too the door frame in the correct position and height with a few pop rivets and call it a day, its a simple idea, and sometime they're the best, I like the idea of KISS- keep it simple stupid, that's just me though, hopefully it works for you! I'd try it personally but I'm a welder\ fabricator and I trust steal more then glue, but I also trust lexan more then glass!
Good Luck hopefully I explained it well, I'm a few beers in and better at drawing and talking then typing! Thank God for spell check!