Disc brake conversion using stock drum hubs and spindles 2 piston, 4 piston or 6

[funknut]

I ordered stainless steel front flex lines for a 2011 Mustang GT from Stoptech.  Lines are a little bit longer than I'd like but they otherwise work great.  I have my calipers rear mounted.  I can grab a pic later today.

[garner7555]

Trying to finish things up.  Just got most of the new brake lines in.  How are you all routing the lines from the calipers to the hard line?  

The calipers seem to want to run the hoses up towards the UCA.

Anyone got pics?

I flipped my calipers left to right and right to left. I also used the banjo bolt that came with the mustang caliper to mount my original Chrysler disc brake hoses. If someone has a better way I am all ears as I am not exactly happy with the way mine are currently routed either.

Had the same problem as you, the soft lines that came with the kit are made for front mounted calipers and just would not work, no matter how I tried them. I went with the 15" versions from Dr. Diff below. Problem solved.

http://www.doctordiff.com/stainless-front-brake-flex-hose-kit.html

The Dr Diff hoses have a different size thread banjo bolt. I guess the 2014 Mustang GT brakes differ from the Cobra calipers he carries. Did anyone else not have this issue?

I used a 10mm banjo bolt in my rear calipers (factory Mustang calipers).   I will try to get you some pictures of my setup soon.   

[Jarven]

14 inch 4 piston or 15 inch 6 piston... and no I don't think random brembos will work with my adapters.  But I do know they sell 8 piston 16.2 inch brakes for those mustangs....  not brembo, some wacky taiwanese company. 

The adapters basically mimick 2005 to 2014 mustang spindles and rear diff and let you use whatever brakes your budget, wheels and taste allows for...

Do you have measurements of the bolted holes from the mustang brembos? I own a Challenger SRT8 that I could do some mesuring on, I assume the offset and c/c between the holes would be sufficient. There are some challenger srt8 brake setups to buy out there for good prices. Would be nice to have Brembos both front and rear but I guess that will give me problems with the parking brake huh?

[invincibleextremes]

Yup, zero parking brake...  that's why I never designed a system to work with the mopar 300/challenger/charger platform...   oh and for those Not wanting brembo brakes the regular calipers are plastic single and dual piston setups... 

As is, the market is really slim already, but the work involved has been worth it.  There is a percentage of Mopar owners that are willing to run larger wheels, but those same people are also the kind that want GOOD brakes, not single plastic piston garbage... 

If I spent 40 to 80 hours designing a setup to works with the Mopar brembos I would sell 3 sets or so and who ever bought them would still need to run the Mustang rear brakes to get a parking brake...

I may later, but right now I just don't have the time to work for free... ;-)

[68ChargerJMP]

What are you guys who are running rear discs, doing with the rear axle brake lines? Are you having to cut and re-flare to put the end in a better location, or are you bending new ones from scratch? Will the factory drum lines work as is? Are you affixing some type of bracket to the axle housing near the calipers to support the hard line/flex line connection? Thanks.

I just used factory style drum brake hard lines, and bent them where I wanted them by hand.   

I think I see why now....some of you such as yourself are using the brembos, which are fixed and u can do that. The Mustang calipers are the sliding type and need a flex line.

On another note...Did you stay with tapered bearings? If so, how did u get the lock tab for the adjuster situated, being the main caliper bracket mounts to the retainer and flange? I guess I could machine down a spot on the backside of the bracket and put the tab where it's supposed to be or modify it to fit on top. I just rebuilt and repainted my rear and just noticed this issue. Unfortunately, I broke my leg yesterday and can't really get out there on it, but it was on my mind and I just wanted to know what you guys did. Thanks.

[68ChargerJMP]

I think I misspoke. It appears you are running the mustang calipers as well. So Garner, you didnt run flex line to the caliper?

[garner7555]

I think I misspoke. It appears you are running the mustang calipers as well. So Garner, you didnt run flex line to the caliper?

Yes, i used the hard lines that are intended for factory drums.   I attached stainless flex line to the end of it that runs over to the caliper.   

[68ChargerJMP]

I think I misspoke. It appears you are running the mustang calipers as well. So Garner, you didnt run flex line to the caliper?

Yes, i used the hard lines that are intended for factory drums.   I attached stainless flex line to the end of it that runs over to the caliper.   

What about the adjuster lock tab?

[Dino]

I just got the brackets! Nice work V!   

I probably will want the rear calipers to be on the front of the rotor and with these brackets apparently you can pick where they go. So I only have one question: how do you install the rear brackets?   

I removed the driver side drum, axle, and backing plate. I have three brackets that are bolted together: a ginormous washer that I believe is in place of some drum part so axle preload stays the same? And two bigger brackets. One for the caliper itself, the other not sure where it goes.

Help!   

[68ChargerJMP]

I just got the brackets! Nice work V!   

I probably will want the rear calipers to be on the front of the rotor and with these brackets apparently you can pick where they go. So I only have one question: how do you install the rear brackets?   

I removed the driver side drum, axle, and backing plate. I have three brackets that are bolted together: a ginormous washer that I believe is in place of some drum part so axle preload stays the same? And two bigger brackets. One for the caliper itself, the other not sure where it goes.

Help!   

I'll do what others on this thread cant seem to do and that is answer a simple question about a lock tab. Got it figured out though, thanks anyway.

The "washer" is indeed what u said. It takes the place of the backing plate. The bracket that looks like a "c" bolts on to the axle housing. The last bracket bolts to the "c bracket and the caliper bolts to it.

[68ChargerJMP]

Actually the "c" bracket bolts to the retainer, "washer" bracket and then the housing. Of course, a couple of gaskets are used also. The white foam is between the retainer and "washer" bracket and the metal gasket between the "washer" bracket and the housing.

[Dino]

There are gaskets?   

Does the C bracket bolt onto the axle housing hole up or down? If it matters.

Also, did you use longer studs? It seems that with the added thickness of the c bracket, the stock studs may be a tad too short. I'm already getting longer studs for the wheels themselves.

[68ChargerJMP]

It should have came with 10 new bolts, but they are on the short side also. The bolt protrudes a little through the nut, but not as much as I would like. Actually, the bolts that bolt the brackets together could have stood to be a little longer too. They don't protrude through the nut at all. I may end up replacing all of the hardware. I appreciate it being included,  but none of it is not the proper length.

On the bracket...pretty sure it will only go up because of the hole orientation on the housing.

[68ChargerJMP]

Scored a set of shelby gt500 calipers and 13.8 rotors for $200. They were take offs, less than 50 miles on them, practically brand new. I have about $550 in the whole deal, front discs, rear discs and the brackets....Killer!

[invincibleextremes]

   and that is why this whole thing was worth all that work figuring out all the dimensions and spacing...  so people can have killer brakes for less than 25% of what they would otherwise pay...

And pricing aside... there's also the ease of finding replacement parts due to it being an OEM setup .

[68ChargerJMP]

  and that is why this whole thing was worth all that work figuring out all the dimensions and spacing...  so people can have killer brakes for less than 25% of what they would otherwise pay...

And pricing aside... there's also the ease of finding replacement parts due to it being an OEM setup .

Absolutely!

[68ChargerJMP]

Scored a set of shelby gt500 calipers and 13.8 rotors for $200. They were take offs, less than 50 miles on them, practically brand new. I have about $550 in the whole deal, front discs, rear discs and the brackets....Killer!

Welllll......almost! In my blind haste to purchase these on ebay, I actually got the 11.8" rotors. I read that Shelby Gt500 came with 13.8" rotors, which they do, 2013 and later. These were off of a 2007. Whoops! I had convinced myself I saw 13.8" on the add when it clearly said 11", not even 11.8". They are brand new though, I didn't have to paint or turn anything. After installing them, I think these will be plenty. Essentially 12" on the rears. 13" on the front. If I ever to get a chance to wear out the pads, I m pretty sure an upgrade to Hawk pads with these brakes, along with the rest of the car will  exceed my driving skills and ability anyway.

[Dino]

Are the Hawk pads really worth the extra coin? Anything wrong with plain old ceramics?

I went with the 12" rotors up front and 11.8" in the back bease I don't want to mess with spacers and grindng right now. They'll be arriving today!

[68ChargerJMP]

Are the Hawk pads really worth the extra coin? Anything wrong with plain old ceramics?

I went with the 12" rotors up front and 11.8" in the back bease I don't want to mess with spacers and grindng right now. They'll be arriving today!

I don't have any firsthand experience with them. I just hear and read a lot of good things. Again, the Hawk pads are probably out of my skill set. Oem pads that came with my calipers are more than likely good enough for me and my goals.

[funknut]

So far I've done my fronts only with the 13.2" OEM discs and pads and they stop tremendously strong.  I can't imagine needing more stopping power on a street car on street tires.  I'm very sure I would have no problem locking up my 245 wide fronts.  Any more braking power would be wasted on my car for sure.

[Dino]

Yeah I'm going with plain ceramic pads, nothing fancy.

The 12.4" rotors look good behind my 17" wheels. Happy so far!

Instead of enlarging the center bore in the rotors, I'm going to have the hubs front and rear turned to fit the rotors. If ever I need new or bigger rotors, they will be a true bolt on. It's not like I'm going back to drums!   
It would suck to enlarge the rotor bore, I bought the Centric premium rotors and they are e-coated on all non brake surfaces and I'd like to keep it that way.

[Blakcharger440]

Hey invincibleextremes,

I have a 70 Charger RT 440 that has American Racing Torque Thrust 18x8 fronts and 18x10 on the rear. What is the biggest 2011-2014 Mustang rotor that I can run on the front and rear with a set of your caliper adapters?

Also what mastercylinder and what prop valve are needed to make it all work properly? The mastercylinder piston has to be properly sized to work with the brakes.

I would also want the rear brakes to have E brake cables so what cables are you using and will they work with the stock E brake mechanism for my car?

[invincibleextremes]

So far I've done my fronts only with the 13.2" OEM discs and pads and they stop tremendously strong.  I can't imagine needing more stopping power on a street car on street tires.  I'm very sure I would have no problem locking up my 245 wide fronts.  Any more braking power would be wasted on my car for sure.

I gotta ask, what master did you go with?

[funknut]

I gotta ask, what master did you go with?

I went with the Tallon hydraboost and the Wilwood master in 1 1/8" bore diameter.

[Blakcharger440]

I went to Autozone and they have part #42253 which is a 14 inch rotor for the 2014 Mustang GT brembo option. Do you sell a caliper adapter kit that will fit a Brembo caliper. Will all of this fit under a 18 inch wheel?

What other cars used the same Brembo caliper as the 2014 Mustang GT as it might make the search a little easier?